I just bought a weber 32/36 and i dont know squat about it :)

[ctrain]

Well my replacement carby for my 2t just arrived and this is what i got



Now im pretty sure thats only some of the parts that will make it work

I do know that is uses a water choke but im not sure if that will work with the 2t

What i need help with is getting it onto the 2t, what other parts do i need and how will the accelerator linkages connect?

I have a know a guy that is a magician with webers so he will do all the tuning, but i cant get in contact with him atm

I dont have an air filter for it, i went to autobarn and they had some but wasnt sure if it would fit on the weber.

heres some other pics

(If anyone has time could you label some of the hose connections)





Cheers, Callum

[ToyTA22]

Hi Callum
Looking at top photo the two closest connectors are fuel in and return, left is from fuel pump right is fuel return to tank. The other connector on top is a breather to carbon cannister. For linkage, the last photo the right hand, primary throttle, should have a U shaped linkage. These usually come from a 2litre Cortina or Escort, which these carbies come from. My Celica isn,t available so I cant take photo for you at the moment. See if I can on weekend.
Regards
Tony

[ctrain]

can i buy the U shaped brackets off ebay? and is that all i need for it to work with the stock linkages?

[ToyTA22]

Yes. Just search weber 32/36 linkage and usually they will show up. You may, out of memory need to drill linkage for standard toyota linkage to fit.
when you get one you will see what I mean.

[ToyTA22]

If you look on ebay tonight. GEM Parts Australia has one same as you need for $19.95 plus $6.95 post. finishes tommorow 11:32 am

[ctrain]

im guessing this one?

WEBER 32/36 32 DGAV DGV DGAV DFV CARBY CARB THROTTLE LINKAGE FORD ESCORT CORTINA | eBay

If it is im buying it, thanks heaps mate

[ToyTA22]

That's the one.

[Silly Rabbit]

Hey Callum....i've got a brand new K&N air filter for it if you are interested....the link below is what it is......let me know and we can work out a price.

POTN - If you are looking for an Ford Capri mk3 2.0 1979 1982 Weber 32/36 DGAV (56-9070) click here K&N

[Silly Rabbit]

...oh and i think for your choke to work you need the butterflys at the top of the carb as shown in the pic....but I could be mistaken. I know my 32/36 had the butterflys and they were controlled / adjusted by the temp.


http://www.carburetion.com/images/we...tric_Choke.jpg

[ctrain]

thanks silly rabbit, i did have a look at other weber dgav's on ebay and they seemed to all have the butterflys, yet the guy said it came of a running 2t? So it might work without them but we will have to see. As for that k&N filter i'll pm you about it.

[litldv8]

it will need the butterfly's there for the choke to work!
the photos look like they are missing
you could get it started and feather the gas until it warms up - but that is cr@p
new 32/36 carbs are cheap really by the time you get that one kitted, probably has worn bushes on the throttl plate and has parts missing.
you can also have either a manual, electric or water(read sh!t!) choke
and it will arrive complete!
neil

[jb_22]

Callum, I have the choke butterflies off my 32/36 (it is an electric choke, but the butterflies should be the same physically??). I removed them because I didn't need the choke in queensland climate - you being in Vic the choke is a good idea for winter, but you'll get it running okay without the choke being summer. BTW my fuel return on the carby went to the fuel pump??? some mechanical fuel pumps have 3 barbs it seems, because I replaced the fuel pump and the replacement only had 2 barbs. You should be able to buy the air filter gear from Repco/Auto One/Supercrap/etc. Filters are about $18 and the stainless assembly was about $65 last time I went to Autobarn but they had to order it in.

32/36 Webers are pretty easy to tune, so I suggest you have a go at it yourself - you read my post on the classic celica thread? I suggest you take off the float bowl cover and inspect for cleanliness too, sometimes dirt in the fuel bowl can block up the jets.

[jb_22]

Copied from Classic Celica Thread:

1. Start with a warm motor, go for a quick drive
2. Take the air filter off, it makes it much easier to listen to the motor. Check the timing too, tuning the carby with timing outta whack can make it harder.
2. slowly screw in (clockwise) the idle mixture adjustment screw until revs start dropping, this is leaning the mixture out.
3. 1/4 turn at a time, turn the screw counter-clockwise. Make sure you wait for the motor to level out again. You will feel the engine pick up a little each time. Listen for a sucking whistle sound that will get louder as the the tune gets better (hard to explain but once you know what to listen for it makes sense - it's sorta an audible vacuum gauge).
4. Trim the idle speed if the idle gets above ~1000rpm.
5. Keep repeating 3. &4. until you get to a plateau where you feel like unscrewing the mixture (making it richer) doesn't seem to make a difference to the motor. As soon as you feel the motor dip again, screw clockwise to lean it out by 1/4-1/2 turn to get the mixture back into the prime area.
6. If the jetting for the carb is right, the idle mixture should be around 2.5 turns out from fully screwed in.
7. Go for a blast around the block, check the plugs to see if they're sooty (too rich) or grey (too lean)
8. ??????????
9. Profit!

That should get you a reasonable tune, but if the jetting is out or something is amiss with the carb you might find some flat spots, weak areas etc. My accelerator pump diahragm was leaky, so when you dumped the gas, all that fuel just sprayed into the engine bay and the motor got none of it, so it would lean out and splutter & fart. Hopefully that gets you going

Cheers, Jess

[ctrain]

I did read your post and i copied and printed it out for when i do give it a go (thanks heaps), im taking two weeks holiday from work on the 6th feb so im going to rebuild the 2t as it has a bad oil leak somewhere near the distributor and it is due for a service.

That brings up another point, i will have help by my uncle on rebuilding the 2t but i dont know what to do about the cam situation, i have mild cam in the shed and i know you cant just put it in, you gotta change the followers, valves all that stuff? and should any car part store have a rebuild gasket kit for a 2t or will i have to go online?

Cheers,
Callum

[jb_22]

Hi Callum, The cam will be a fairly straightforward install in a 2T while the motor is out. The head might need some attention (valve reseated, stem seals etc), but with that aside, All you really have to do to install the cam in the OHV 2Ts is readjust the valve lash on the pushrods/rockers for the new cam. You might need different length pushrods if the valve lift on the new cam is much bigger, but pushrods are easy to swap over if you can't use the standard ones. To adjust the valve lash you will need a set of feeler gauges & find some info on the net about the process if you're not sure. There is a lot of articles on the net relating to pushrod V8s, which are very similar to the 2T valvetrain. With a mild cam, double valve springs might be worth thinking about too.

I got a 2TG complete gasket rebuild kit from Sleeka Spares in SA for $185 inc. headgasket so give David a try there, should be cheaper for a 2T gasket set. He can also order parts in if they're not in stock.

Cheers, Jess