SOLVED!! - 1UZ Stalls, but not when bridging FP and B+ AND 12v to B+

[EldarO]

From what i remember, +B is an ignition switched power feed, it should supply 12v with the ignition switched on. Do a continuity test between the ecu pin and the pins for the efi relay (the one pictured) and if its fine, could be a buggery relay, or something that supplys the relay with power is fubar.

[Cresleepa]

Thanks for the help so far.
I managed to fix quite a few things.
But now i have no power windows, Tacho, Dash lights, Fan /AC controls etc... So Im still fixing bits.

One question, there is a screw on the ECU plug, and when I try to undo it it just keep spinning??? Is there a way to make it undo>? Like do I slot something in to lock the threaded bit or something??

[CrUZida]

That screw is just there to keep the plug on.
Once you've unscrewed it all the way, just pull the plug off.

[4th surf]

And to add to that the screw (bolt) doesn't come out of the plug. It should slide back and forth in the plug when undone but if the captive nut on the ECU side has been overtightened and come adrift then you are quoting Apollo 13 "Houston we have a problem".

If the bolt is sliding back and forth as Cruzida has said you can slide the big one piece plug off. if not man are you in for some fun which is to carefully try to take the ECU apart and slide the plastic retainer off the front of it and grip the captive nut some how (after that cable ties are your friend to hold the plug in). Now lets hope that this worst case is not the case

[dumbass]

tacho u need a booster and a sig converter if u want it to read right
dash lights u prob forgot to plug dash light dimmer in
rest of stuff check fuses

[dumbass]

also seems like the sparky who touched it at start has no idea
and was using that car as a learning experience
to get most things working properly u need to use most wires
from the 3rd plug under the dash that plugged into the 7m ecu

[CrUZida]

You wont need a tacho booster, but you'll need to convert it to a 6cyl signal.
The tacho is adjustable, but you'll need to adjust it against a known source.

[Cresleepa]

SOLVED! FIXXED!

So I was given a HUGE book for the MX83, its a factory service manual, but for USDM.... But it gives a fairly good idea what goes on.

Guess what, there is a fuse panel just to the right of the accelerator pedal, and a few of them were blown! I shit you not, three 5 cent fuses caused weeks of frigging around. Was a great learning experience though.
ALSO
There was another Relay, located high up on the passenger strut tower, has a rubber shell thing... well that had a lot of corrosion in it and I pulled it all apart and cleaned it up. After that, the engine started first go, no need for bridging B+ etc.
AND
During the cars stay in the driveway, some prick went throughout the glove box & centre console and made a huge mess, realising there wasn't anything worth flogging... bastard left the door ajar and I didn't see it for a few days, battery was uber flat....


SO Im guessing the JDM Fog/headlight install with the relay etc may of had something to do with the fuses blowing, and also that relay with the dodgy connection....

Now all is good, thanks so much for the replies and emails and diagrams... I am now a free man, not depending on busses and lifts to work!

Car feels like its 500kW now (cos I haven't driven it in ages...) but really its only like 130kw lol
That will teach me to lock up at night...

[allencr]

Guess what, there is a fuse panel just to the right of the accelerator pedal, and a few of them were blown! I shit you not, three 5 cent fuses caused weeks of frigging around. Was a great learning experience though.

Yes it would be a real learning experience to find that blown fuses for some accessories also caused an intermittent fuel and/or ignition failure.
You've inadvertently fixed, probably temporarily, whatever the original problem was, nothing more. Those fuses are just another problem/issue.

[litldv8]

SOLVED! FIXXED!

There was another Relay, located high up on the passenger strut tower, has a rubber shell thing... well that had a lot of corrosion in it and I pulled it all apart and cleaned it up. After that, the engine started first go, no need for bridging B+ etc.

Now all is good, thanks so much for the replies and emails and diagrams... I am now a free man, not depending on busses and lifts to work!

that was probly the problem though
neil

[Cresleepa]

I think the Fog Light install wasnt really the best, last night I pulled it all out and started again, now has a proper narva relay, correct terminals etc and all is good!

Im summary:

Rubber shelled relay had corrosion and bad connection
Loom had dodgey connectors
fog light install wasnt up to spec
fuses blown (also would of explained why the A/C stopped working...)
Also the connectors for the 2x terminal temp sensor were bodgey, have got new connectors and the fans work properly now

[4th surf]

Great stuff! Hope what I sent you helped

[Cresleepa]

Sure did help alot!
It was great seeing it in colour, all the wiring made sence then. Toyota actually do a pretty good job in their electrical design in my opinion. (although currently Imimpressed with Boschs setup with CANBUS and all that... very tricksy!)
So I took the beast out today, loved every minute of it.

And yes you were right, it was a very simple little thing, and a headsmack to myself for not looking hard enough!