ECU....all the difference

[Draven]

just drill it out.. if you've fubared the screw, and the ecu is toast anyway, there's not a whole lot more damage you can do (although careful use of a drill should negate any damage)

[Smokey228]

Angle grind the f*cker off ahahah

Jks, but easiest way is to jus drill the centre of the screw out. Be careful not to go through any circuits but if your careful its safe enough.

[EldarO]

drill bit as big as the head of the screw, the cover will move a bit when you get the entire head of the screw off.

Eldar.O.

[CrUZida]

There are A LOT of cases on SoarerCentral where a faulty ecu has caused a bad idle.

It seems to be something with Toyota ecu's when they get around the 15yo mark.

Mark Paddick I think on there repairs them for $50ish from memory.
Changes all the capacitors out as they seem to be the main culprit.
Most idle problems disappear after the ecu has been 'repaired'

[Enchanter]

Ive had two seperate n13 Pulsar ecus die, they were about $300 exchange. Its not something I would have expected from a Toyota ecu, but obviously they do die.
It will be good to find out exactly what the problem was.

[Alchemist]

I did finally manage to get it open, firstly I must say, very very clean in there No obivous damage to anything that I could see, I am going to have a closer look over the next few days

[ra23celica]

I can tell you how easy it is to toast a track in an ECU when you put about 10.5v through your SC switching circuit because you can't wire up a relay correctly.....thank you to that man on this forum who repaired my stupidity for me!

[psychofox]

I can attest to the "Reliability" of Toyota ECUs....

on my ZZT231 Celica, it stopped engaging High lift camshaft. So take it to Toyota dealer. they scratch heads, etc. replace every Oil control valve, cam position sensors, etc. on the Head. After a week or so they suddenly discover - the ECU is the problem.. It had gone into test mode and they could not resolve it by resetting the ECU. Toyota Australia advised a new was ECU required, at $1300 trade. The whole ordeal cost me over $2800 ffs. Car was off the road for 2 weeks. On a positive note the car seemed to use about 1-2L/100km less than it previously did. In hindsight I should have just bought an Apexi PowerFC for it.....

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Both of my ECU's have their own peculiarities at idle. Every now and then my old ECU would stop controlling the idle (i.e. it'd lump around 500rpm and try to die), and other times it'd idle all over the place. My current ECU starts to pop and idle weirdly sometimes when it idles. Both are intermittent, and both can usually be stopped temporarily with an ECU reset. Needless to say, i'm waiting for my aftermarket ECU. I opened one of them up and went around it, everything looks perfect, so i'm thinking it could be some faulty caps.

[Hydra]

I've got similar stuff going on with my ecu, compared to your 2nd ecu. Except my fuel economy is pretty crap right now and i'm starting to think it's the ecu. Might take it apart and look for any obvious damage.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

My second ECU is giving me the shits moreso than the first one atm. It's only saving feature is that it doesn't stall on me. Roll on aftermarket ECU.

[skiddz]

well u dont have these problems if u have a carby

the ecu in my n13 is very moody, some days it gives me power others it idles low and runs like a bucket of crap

[Ribfeast]

Faulty caps is quite common in the late 80's toyotas, I know of 2 or 3 people with 1JZ cressidas that have caps that leaked inside their ECU. The 15µF ones are hard to come by