Wasted Spark on a K Series - Oil Pump Drive Replacement?

[WDE_BDY]

Ok, so have an EDIS setup for my 4K-E to do wasted spark with the MS-II. This means I only need a 36-1 trigger wheel and no dizzy, however K series dizzy drives the oil pump. Has anyone done a cut down dizzy to retain the drive? Any pics or tips appreciated, don't have a spare dizzy yet to play with. I assuming cutting it down will be relatively easy, then just need to cap it and ensure the shaft can't move up and down.
Also, anyone attached a trigger wheel to the back of a K series crank pulley?

Callum

[Sam_Q]

what about a simple option like what I whipped up for some 16V owners?



hey just curious how does it drive the oil pump?

[WDE_BDY]

Dizzy shaft runs down past the cam in the block which turns it, has a tongue on the end of the drive which slots into the oil pump and drives it. I was looking to cut it right down as it sits up quite high and I wanted to mount the coil pack over the top of it to keep it looking semi factory. Don't have a spare to pull apart so trying to determine what stops the shaft moving up and down as the dizzy will try to climb out of the block if not clamped and I don't want the shaft falling out the bottom of the dizzy either depending where I cut it.

Callum

[Sam_Q]

what an odd design. I say take the cap off and have a look as you suggest. Perhaps a large amount can be taken off to just leave the shaft above the bearing.

[litldv8]

why not split the shaft at the balance weights it will be above what holds the shaft in place
turn down the aluminium housing to an applicable height and tig weld some mounting lugs on to bolt down a plate to mount the coil pack on to on top.
what sort of coilpack are you using?
neil

[WDE_BDY]

That is the sort of info I need, as I said I don't have a spare dizzy to pull apart and find out how the shaft is held in place. Coilpack is from a 1995 Ford Mondeo Zetec 2.0.


Callum

[litldv8]

nooice biiig sparks
neil

[WDE_BDY]

So dizzy got cut down, $40NZ -


Now to piece together the rest of the bits I need.

Callum

[Sam_Q]

looks realy good and $40NZ is really cheap

[litldv8]

looks the goods but did you cut it above the shaft seal or just above the o-ring and going to seal it with a welsh plug over the top?
neil

[WDE_BDY]

That lip you can see is where the factory clamp holds the distributor down on the block, all factory seals to that point are still in place. The cap above the shaft is circliped in, no pressurised oil in that area but if I get any leaks a bit of sealant will sort it out no problem.

Callum

[oldcorollas]

whats stopping the shaft falling out the bottom?

usually the cam turns the gear and pushes the shaft down, but thats resisted by the top of the shaft? or is it the other way around?

[WDE_BDY]

Ok, I thought there was a pin or circlip or similar but there isn't. Can't pull the shaft out the bottom and there is a definite clunk when you pull it, gear on the bottom of the shaft is pinned. So since I didn't pull it apart I was presuming the shaft is one piece and inserted from the top of the dizzy housing. Just looked on Toyodiy.com and it looks like the shaft has a step in it that a washer sits against to stop it moving down and the gear pinned at the bottom stops it moving up.


Callum

[oldcorollas]

it is clunks, it'll be fine.. and it looks good, and much neater than stocko
tbh, i don't know if it would be bad if the pump was holding the gear up, but pushing the pump into the end of the alloy housing is probably not ideal..

keen to see how your EDIS works out.. have had one sittin around for ages, but never put it in...

[WDE_BDY]

Yeah, just sorting a new throttle body to attach to a spare top half for the 4K-E manifold (want to keep complete 4K-E setup intact) and sorting out mounting the trigger wheel then I can start wiring it up. Fun thing is I still want to keep driving it everyday....

Callum