18R-C to 18R-GU

[LT2K]

Hi,
I came across an 18R-GU head with cams and 1 missing valve and a set of 18R-GU pistons for $100, I haven't bought them yet, but I'm looking at them very closely. Anyway, I have two 18R-C complete engines and was hoping to have some help in using the 18R-C block and converting it to an 18R-G.
I was wondering what parts are different and what parts are the same and whether they bolt onto the R-C block since I plan on building the engine from the ground up with good second/new parts. I have plenty of time to build the engine and can save the money required at any point.

That or I'm willing to buy an 18R-G block minus head/pistons.
Advice would be very helpful.

[Willofan]

18r Blocks,crank and conrods are interchangeable between 18rc and 18rg with some minor changes, main one is moving the dip stick tube from one side to the other.

The rest is the parts used to make it an RG, layshaft, distributor, timing cover, timing chains and sprokets, plus the head and pistons you say you can get.

Refer to the thread all about these engines for more clues

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...mes-18r-g.html

[LT2K]

Thank you, That will give me plenty to read.

Is the dipstick move a necessary job, does anything get in the way? I've read that the block has both holes there but one side isn't drilled out, but it also said you can use either side and just plug the other side up.

I own a few engine manuals for the 18R so I'll also have a sort through those to pick out all the part numbers to determine whether they're the same or not. If anyone's interested I'll happily make an 18R-G build thread.

[river]

Hi,

If you don't think checking the oil is necessary then you can leave the dipstick where it is... just you won't be able to get it out cos the inlet manifold is in the way.

seeyuzz
river

[Rhyno]

Im doing something similar at the moment. The thread http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...ce-manual.html is also a good read, much of it relates to turbocharging but their is some good info about building a strong RG.

You should turn this thread into the RG build thread.

I will be watching

[LT2K]

Hi,

If you don't think checking the oil is necessary then you can leave the dipstick where it is... just you won't be able to get it out cos the inlet manifold is in the way.

seeyuzz
river

I forgot entirely about the crossflow head. Something the RC lacks..

Im doing something similar at the moment. The thread http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...ce-manual.html is also a good read, much of it relates to turbocharging but their is some good info about building a strong RG.

You should turn this thread into the RG build thread.

I will be watching

Cheers, any articles containing RG build info is great. Really appreciated.

[river]

Hi,

Also check the exploded engine diagrams for the 18R engines here....

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...ine-specs.html

seeyuzz
river

[LT2K]

I recently purchased the head (88250) and to my surprise he had found practically the rest of the engine. I scored it all for $150.
The Gympie swap was last saturday on the weekend and i found another score, practically complete head (88230) minus the tappet cover for $50 in good condition.
I've read that the 230 has more aggressive cam profiles while the 250 has larger valves and ports. If I had the 250 head reconditioned with the 230 Cams, would I end up with a slightly more powerful combination? I plan on double springing the valves like in the 270 head and might have the head shaved by a mm or two to raise compression (I read this on the forums), since my father knows a professional head conditioner.
Is there anything else I should know before doing up the RG head?

-Rhys.

[Omegaman]

You may look at re seating the valves, while your at changing valve springs. Check the number on the cams, as they usually get swapped out. Should be .....831 from memory.

[LT2K]

Cheers, will look into it. Where abouts are the numbers located?

[Omegaman]

On the front of each cam, on one of the flat faces.
There should be an (I- for intake and the number, also a E- for exhaust.)