help needed, 18r-c tappet cover, ra40 suspension, steering box and inner tie rod ends

[MorgzMods]

I've just gotten back report from my local mechanic for the car that's in my sig.

I'm very new to doing any work on a car, so i'd love some advice/info on the best way to do anything. I've got a Haynes Owners workshop manual for the 1978 to 1979 Celica's i'm just finding it hard to make sense of the instructions. they are written for the mechanically sound.

I hope my long list of questions doesn't mean i won't get any answers

His report details the following issues:

• All 4 shocks weak
• Rear swaybar link bushes worn (cotton reel type)
• Steering box play
• Inner tie rod ends excess play
• Water Pump belt is age cracked
• Alternator belt needs adjusting
• Rear extension housing leak and excess play
• tappett cover leaking

The things i would love to find out are as follows:
1. Is changing/replacing the shocks as easy as in this video?
How to Replace Your Shocks : How to Replace Your Shock Absorbers - YouTube

2. If i'm buying new shocks is there a specific model/type/size i need?

3. What/where can i find the rear swaybar bushes? he noted they are a cotton reel type.

4. How do i go about adjusting the steering box? i've read the workshop manual and that provides info about removing, but not adjusting for play in the steering

5. Are inner tie rod ends also known as track rods? that bolt onto the relay rod and steering arms? Can i replace the ends? or would i need to replace the whole rods?

6. Is a water pump belt something i need to add to my list of things to recover from the wreckers if i can?

7. In the workshop manual it shows the alternator seems to swivel (in a sense) and i just need to loosen the nuts and move the alternator until there is only 8-13mm of play (measurement in the manual)

8. Rear extension housing leak and excess play, since i don't have many tools or much experience should i be getting the mechanic to fix this?

9. Tappett cover oil leaks, is this as simple as taking the tappet cover off and trying to clean it up then putting it back on? where is the tappet cover?

I'll help provide any information i can, would love to figure out how to do as much of this as possible. More to gain experience in working with the car then to save money.

Cheers,
Morgan

[kremsra28]

hey champ, the rear shocks are easy, just a couple of bolts, the front 1s are a bit more complicated as they are struts, prob best to get some1 that knows wat they are doing if your not very mechanically minded.try repco for the shocks, well for all the parts, if you buy them all at the same time they should give you a discount.
the sway bar bushes will be easy, just a few bolts to undo, pull the old 1s out and slip the new 1s in, adjusting the steering box is easy, but if its too far gone will need a new 1, you need to slightly undo the nut on the top (there will be a flat screw in the middle of it), then tighten the screw a little and then tighten the nut up, try the steering and repeat until it feels a bit tighter, dont make it too tight tho as it might make the box wear quicker.
i would think just to replace the whole tie rod, water pump betlt is just the fan belt, easy as just loosening the alternator so you can move it to allow the belt to come off, then just put new 1 on (they are about $15 i think) put some pressure on the alternator to tighten the belt and then tighten the alternator up.
im not sure on the rear extension housing maybe some 1 else on here can explain.
the tappet cover isthe top of the engine, you will need to take off the air cleaner and then just unbolt the cover, buy a new gasket, clean all the oil and crud off where the gasket sits, hey maybe even buy some paint and paint the cover topretty it up a little while its off, then just bolt it back on with the new gasket in place.
hope this sorta explains a little, if you send me your email address i can send you a pdf file that shows exploded views of the car in bits, it will show you how things go together, might be of some help, but im sorry i dont have a repair manual as yet
some ppl might give you a hard time bout the simplicity of some of your questions, just ignore them and dont be disheartened, give it a go and if it dont work out then get a mate round that has some experience, give him a 6pack (dont let him drive home tho!!) to show or help you out.

krem

[MorgzMods]

Thanks very much for all the info mate i appreciate it a truck load. I checked out the shocks earlier today and found out they are struts. Dad is down and he said ideally if we jack up the front then we won't need a spring compressor?

And after poking around the engine bay for about half hour everything you said has made nearly perfect sense.

I'll PM you my email address now

And honestly, i'd shout you a 6pack if you lived a bit closer. ;D

If i don't make it to repco/autobarn (closer to me) today then i'll go tomorrow. i'll be sure to post the results up here.

ps: the mechanic said the rear extension housing is the axle or diff?, it could be/is a bit out of place which is causing the leak and he said there may be a few clunks from the rear when accelerating hard (yet to notice that) he said it's possible to put some form of a sleeve over the join? and that would hold it steady.

[kremsra28]

ok, sorry i just realised wat model yours is, the stuff i have is for a ra28, best thing is to google your model for a repair manual and a parts catalogue, DONT pay anything unless you can do it thru paypal, just saves giving your card details out to unsecure sites, we recently picked up a manual for our mazda mpv ppl mover for $12.
i would say with the diff, it would prob need a new gasket, for this you would need to take wheels off, axles out, tailshaft off and then drain the oil out (wont hurt to change it anyways) unbolt the diff centre, clean off the old gasket and put new 1 on, if it has alot of play in the centre it would be making a hell of a whine noise, more on slight back off from the throttle,

try to take it to a couple of mechanics or try to get some one off here to have a look, as if you come accross to some mechanics that you dont know much, they see $$$ signs and will rip you off hardcore!!
every1 has a mate that is either a mechanic of mechanically minded so ask shitloads of questions, even as simple as they might be, dont be afraid to ask.

keep us posted on how ya go, krem

[MorgzMods]

It's all good mate. i realized i didn't click send on the PM.

I've got the workshop manual but will definitely try to track down a repair manual and parts catalogue.

The diff sounds like something i'll get a mechanic to do. I'm picking up a list of the prices for the mechanic i had it at for each for the issues tomorrow. If i can source the parts cheaper then they quote i'll definitely have a go at doing it myself.

I figured with this forum, the power of google, the workshop manual and some favors i might be able to call in i can have just about having diagnosed or fixed at a pretty decent price.

I'm heavily considering giving the tappet cover a coat of paint. Any tips? types of paint?
Should i prep the cover the way i would any other metal? wire brush, rough sand paper then finer grit sandpaper till it's very smooth, a coat of self etching primer? and then the final coat/s (24 hours in between the coats)

[kremsra28]

best thing to do with the paint side is to check out the spray painting thread on this forum, but, being aluminuim you need a etch primer that will stick to it, i use wattle super etch, it can be used as an etch primer and a normal primer, then any 2pak or heat resistant paint will do the job, buy it all at a paint shop, rare spares down here sell paints so check them out if there is 1 close to you, supercheap also have a good range but if you ask for advice you prob wont get much of a response, hence why i would choose the paint shop.

1stly ask on in the painting thread mentioned above, there is some great info on there.

krem

[MorgzMods]

i decided just to brush it down, while still not perfectly clean it looks much better

Fixed most of the issues so far. Going to attempt the front struts today, hopefully without having to bleed the brake lines

What is involved with changing the inner tie rods? i've got the replacements but it seems pretty complex

Also planning on painting the interior trim myself. i'll make a post in the painting thread to get some info