Replacing Gasket in 2T

[Sirsh]

Hey,

Could someone please give me a detailed walk through on how to replace the head gasket in a 2T engine without taking the engine out and what problems I would come across ect ect

Much appreciated,
Tyler.

[Silly Rabbit]

No need to take the engine out. Take off the inlet and exhaust manifolds. Undo the rocker cover and undo the head studs. Take off top radiator hose and the head should lift off without too many hassles.

From there make sure the block and head surfaces are dead flat and spotlessly clean to ensure a good surface to mount the gasket. Preferably try and get the head dipped and cleaned and have the valves re-seated to ensure no troubles there. The head shop should be able to tell you if it needs new guides or further work etc.

Re-assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly so put the head back on, bolt it down to the correct tension, check the tappets for correct clearances. Put the rocker cover back on and then the inlet and exhaust manifolds with new gaskets.

It is probably one of the simplest engine jobs you can do as there is no timing chains to get in the way and no real troubles or traps to look out for. Just take your time and refer to the engine manual for all steps

[RiceburnaGTV]

Yep easy as, one of the first things I ever did of a "technical nature" to my TA23.

Just remember to undo the head bolts in sequence and as my dad taught me lay out the pushrods in the sequence they came out in too.

[Sirsh]

Pushrods are the rods that go through the head? Maybe I can give someone a carton if they do it for me, saves me screwing it up.

[allencr]

Pushrods are the rods that go through the head?

Time to ask, why do you think the HG needs to be replaced?

[Sirsh]

Low compression and oil stains around the head so I think it needs replacing

[Silly Rabbit]

Head gasket shouldn't be the cause of low compression.....usually worn rings would be the first most probable cause....and fitting a new HG won't solve low comp either....unless it is low on adjoining cylinders which would indicate a blown HG...low across all cylinders and thats just a tired worn engine.........as for the oil stains.......degrease and clean the engine and engine bay and see where the oil is coming from as that's another thing I think totally unrelated to a head gasket.

[Sirsh]

Silly rabbit there was low compression in adjoining cylinders

[Sirsh]

Do I need to use a torque wrench when redoing the headstuds? :|

[Silly Rabbit]

Yes. Be sure to tighten them to the correct torque and also in the correct sequence as described in the engine manual.

[Sirsh]

Okay, I needa get my hands on one. Might buy one from work. I took the headstuds out, disconnected the heater hose from the back of the head, undid the bolts from the bottom thermo stat housing, took out the pushrods (i know the correct order), took the intake manifold off, took the exhaust manifold off. The head wont budge or come off, any ideas?

[Silly Rabbit]

..very careful leverage with a large screwdriver under the thermostat housing and between the water pump

[Sirsh]

Hey rabbit,

I'm going to try that when I get home from work today, also, if I get the head ported and polished, will I need to take out all the valve springs and stuff like that?

[Sirsh]

Sorry for double post but when i reassemble the head and components ect, is it hard to set the Rocker Assemblies back together, I just can't 'put' it back together it needs to be adjusted ect doesn't it? Also, I brought a valve regrind gasket set, There is a lot of gaskets in it except I don't know what many of them are for, the only ones which I know what are for are the head gasket, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, rocker cover gasket. Then there are a all these little ones, I think one may be for the mechanical fuel pump which is on the block (maybe).

[Silly Rabbit]

If you are getting any work done on the head just take the whole thing to the workshop and they will sort it out, no need for you to take out valves or anything. They have the tools to do that.

Putting the rocker gear back on will need the arms adjusted for correct valve clearances. This preferably needs to be done by someone who knows how, as you have to do it in sequence and it's not tricky just needs to be done properly. Once again the engine manual will help a lot in this process.

With the VRS gasket kit you will literally only need the ones you listed. There will also be a thermostat gasket for where it bolts to the head and also one for where the thermostat goes, some valve guide seals, possibly a gasket for the collector on the exhaust and that should be about it. Oh and a square gasket for the plate on the back of the head also.