4agte successful turbo mounting configurations - T25 ?

[Ghetto-Spec .:bayka:.]

Hey guys, need some advice from the community !

I'm trying to mount a T25g on a 4age with this ultra cheap high mount HKS copy manifold. (TOYOTA COROLLA 4AGE T25 TURBO CAST IRON MANIFOLD AE86 | eBay)

The question I have is really about configuring the turbo compressor and exhaust turbine housing positions, and the internal wastegate actuator so that all the inlet and outlet pipes are optimally positioned and the wastegate still works (i.e. the turbo compressor outlet is not aimed straight at the block etc)

This is my first turbo conversion and I'm new to turbos. I understand that you can loosen the 'clampy things' which allows you to rotate the compressor and exhaust turbine housings indepedently around the turbo core. This is really useful becuase you can get the inlet and outlet ports facing in the directions that you need.

The problem is that once you start rotating the compressor and exhaust housings, the internal wastegate actuator is no longer aligned with the wastegate!

How the f&*k are people getting around this problem without going to external gate?

I have been scouring the goddamn net looking at pics of 4agtes trying to work this out.

My guess is:
1. Leave turbo exactly stock and just try to plumb it up even if inlet and outlet ports are not facing in ideal positions?

OR

2. Adjust exhaust and compressor housing positions to suit ideal configuration for inlet and outlet ports. And then make a custom bracket to relocate the internal wastegate actuator?

Please someone put me out of my misery on this one!

Cheers

[Hen]

I made a custom bracket to hold the wastegate actuator. It was a bit of a pain since the only bolt holes I could use were about basically on the other side of the compressor inlet.

Sure it's not a 4A, but here are some pics.

Hen

[jonathan yee]

it's exactly what i'm doin. fitting a t28 to a 3sgte. had to clock everything and make a bracket to mount the actuator.

[mattysshop]

once you have found a location to mount the actuator, just fab up a bracket using some 3mm flat bar... it will be PLENTY strong enough...

bench vice, and a spanner - bend the actuator arm in a slight Z shape to get the perfect fit putting a slight kink in it will also shorten it slightly (extra preload, slightly more boost required to releive the gate spring).. so it's not really a bad thing

[SHEPPO3930]

yeah i did the same, made up a bracket to mount the stock T28 actuator. no big deal really.

just make sure you clock the turbo's core so the oil drain is pointing down (you'd be suprised how many people forget this!).

[Ghetto-Spec .:bayka:.]

Sweet thanks guys. Just going to go the custom bracket route. 3mm flat bar it is (or cable ties to start with).

haha

[mattysshop]

(or cable ties to start with).

.................................... i shouldn't be suprised really.. i did read the build up thread


p.s. did anyone actually click that link? i've seen those ebay mani's before.. perfect for a low/moderate boost turbo conversion, i highly doubt you will ever have problems cracking/warpage etc, providing the flanges are straight to begin with...

but i did notice this...

Driving like without the speed limited... yep

[river]

Hi,

LOL.. any performance shop that puts a vehicle with scissor doors in its image cannot be taken seriously.

seeyuzz
river

[mullett]

a *Lancer* with scissor doors for added effect.

[Ghetto-Spec .:bayka:.]

Yeh I laughed my ass off when I saw that ebay seller.

Well my t25g's arrived today. So I am ready to start playing. They line up well with the flange on the manifold so all good.

The problem I've got now is how you physically rotate the turbo housings?

The exhaust turbine housing has a sandwhich plate thingy, which I presume you can loosen and then rotate, but the compressor housing has no bolts or any plate or anything apprently holding it in place. Any thoughts as to how I rotate it?

[mullett]

compressor housing should be held on in the same way as exhaust (albeit in a different design). Loosen both, get hold of turbo in a vice, SOAK it in wd40 for a few days, then be prepared to hammer crap out of it. 20 year old turbos don't rotate easy...especially the exhaust housing. Also be careful not to move the housing horizontally, there's very little clearance to the blades on the inside, and if you skew the housing you can damage the blades.

-RM

[Ken_T]

T3 framed turbo's are like that but little turbo's like T25/T28, TD05 and TD06 have a circlip holding the comp cover on. Comp cover comes off rather easy compared to exhaust housing, which you will have to hammer, a lot.

[mattysshop]

it may have a dowel in it also to locate it, may have to pull it out with some vice grips...

[Ghetto-Spec .:bayka:.]

Cool thanks ppl. It is indeed a circlip for the compressor housing. The exhaust housing is a few bolts that clamp a sandwhich plate to the housing.

Owing to the fuck around with relocating the wastegate actuator, i bit the bullet and took the turbo into Turbotech (WA) do get them to set everything up for me in 2 hours and save me days of cursing.

Everything is ready to go onto the bigport engine. Will have pics up on build thread soon.

One last question - whats the best option to connect the turbo oil drain to the sump?

1. 4agze sump?
2. Modify 4age sump?

What do ppl do?

[mattysshop]

some people use the 4afe/some GE sumps that have the external oil cooler, can be adapted with some speedflow fittings..

easiest way is to just use your existing sump (as you would pull it off to change to the above anyway) hole saw, and Tig a little spigot on there same size as the oil drain on the base of the turbo core and run a hose like the factory setup...