sc12 clutch removal

[sleepyu]

Im trying to remove the clutch off my sc12 and just wondering how people removed the 14mm nut off the front. Most people seem to just use a rattle gun - but how have they stopped the clutch from spinning? the BGB uses a sst that from what i can see slots into the rubber mounts on the front of the clutch (but mine seems so old and raggy that i cant see this working) Did most people lock it into a vice or something? (not having a vice is there any other way) or do i need to mock up an sst myself. Thanks.

[mookschank]

Rag around the clutch holding it and other hand spanner worked for me....or try two people if still stubborn, one holding, the other spanner....

[TERRA Operative]

Or a rag into the supercharger lobes to jam the lobes from spinning. I do it like that (I've rebuilt a few of these things) and have never had a problem.

[sleepyu]

rag in the lobes worked a treat now to actually get the clutch off... i know theres a thread around here with how to do that humm...

[sleepyu]

damm it i cant find the thread --- is their some trick to getting the clutch off once the nut is removed??

[TERRA Operative]

The clutch should just pull up and off. Then the pulley has a funky nut, but a flat blade screw driver and a few taps with a hammer gets it off. Just don't loose the little washer inside..... You'll need that to reset the clearances.

[sleepyu]

i cant seem to get the clutch off - tried grabbing it with a pair of pliers wont budge - tried to lever it off the pully and it moves maybe 1mm if that then just falls back (also to note is it only seems to be flexing on the little rubber bits on the clutch) the inside doesnt budge am I not meant to screw it off somehow?. I only had to remove just the 14mm nut for it to slide off or have I missed a step? (and why i say clutch i do mean the clutch hub)

[TERRA Operative]

The centre nut is all that holds the clutch to the shaft. It could be that a bit of rust has formed, jamming it together. Maybe give it a bit of a tap with a hammer to try to crack the seal.

Use some anti-seize or similar when you reassemble it.

[sleepyu]

well i finally got it off by prying it out with a screw driver (took about 40 minutes) but in the course of doing so i have bent the edges of the pully. If i bend these back will it be ok to use again? (will try to get some photos up) or should i look for a replacement. Also the screwdrivers head scratched the cement like part of the clutch pully is that a problem? Thanks for all the help terra

[TERRA Operative]

Hmmm, not ideal..... Let me see what the damage is and we'll see what can be done.

[sleepyu]

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Also on the clutch their is quite a lot of surface rust

[TERRA Operative]

Nice work...

Unless you can straighten out the edges (in the second photo) that pulley is terminal. The clutch contacting surface can be machined flat, but if the belt can't wrap around properly, you're stuffed.

[old_mr2]

What is the reason for removing the pulley in the first place?

[sleepyu]

Nice work...

Did i do good poppa Homer... ahh well these things happen - thanks for all the help terra.

What is the reason for removing the pulley in the first place?

A massive flake of the "teflon" has come off one of the rotors - have a spare rotor lying around that im swapping in...so annoying are their any replacement pullys besides the pullybros one? the non existance of sc12 parts just makes me want to get an eaton. Except I have never seen a setup that has the tb before the sc and bov are... well annoying

[TERRA Operative]

Be careful with swapping the lobes. The tolerances are *very* tight.... The last one I did had a total end clearance of 0.15mm from the lobes to the end of the casing (0.5mm on the sump end, 0.10mm on the pulley end).
You need to get these clearances right, or the lobe will rub on the end of the cavity when it expands as it gets hot.
This means removing the rear bearing on that shaft by gently heating the end plate around the bearing to about 150-170 degrees or so, pulling the bearing out, and resetting it in the new position with some new epoxy at the corerect lobe clearance.
You'll need the correct oil too. I got a heap of that stuff if you need some and can't get any yourself.


Have fun.....

(Or if you think it's a bit too hard and you ask nicely, you can send it my way. I can do the above and chuck some new seals in too for cheap, they cost about $20 for the pair. You'll have to source a pulley though, as that's about the only part I don't have a spare of, but I can shim it up to spec etc.)


As for replacement pulleys, try to get a MAP pulley from an AE101. They are slightly smaller than the earler MAF pulleys, so you get a little more boost.