So you want to drive coil packs with a distributor ?

[Redmohawk]

I saw a post up somewhere on here about someone wanting to drive a coil pack setup with a distributor. Was from a while back i think when i was just trawling looking for info on various bits n pieces. Seems everyone just dismissed this idea as a waste of time and said its not possable. Sorry it is , I have done it a few times before and now I'm planning a 1ggze with lpg seems I'm doing it again!

So I thought i'd do it again , and post up a how to for those inclined to learn/try something different to have a look. Last time i did it was on a Ta22 with a 2TG in it, LPG loves a good spark and first upgrade was to an electronic distributor from points. But turned out the electronic dizzy was dead and a mate asked if i could rig up a coil pack intested so we used hall effect sensors to drive a dedicated electronic unit (like a ignitor module but home made)

This time I thought I'd use what was at hand (mostly as it will prob be what you have at hand and make life easyer for others to copy with success). So I will use a 5ME distributor as its a 6 cyl dizzy for a start with the right diam to fit a 1g pickup hole.
It is also an electronic type dizzy so no points to start with.

It also has mechanical advance (will be modified to suit LPG advance curve) also has a Vacume advance module that will prob work as a vac advance/boost retard unit.

You will need to keep the 1ggze pickup as your going to need the inductive pickups out of it!

[Redmohawk]

Ok so you will need a 5ME dizzy like this



and your 1GGZE one like this



you need pull the gear off your 1g unit and fit it too the 5Me unit, this is relitivley easy the 1g unit is 10mm shaft and the 5me is 11.5 and 12.5 where the 1g cog has to sit so all i do is cut the longer 5m shaft off shorter and drill out the 1g cog to 11.5 mm with a 12.5 mm step in the gear end to make it sit in the correct position. This Is the lazy way of doing it and leaves the end of the gear unsuported to do it correctly you should machine down the shaft that sticks out past the new gear down to 10mm to suport the gear from both ends. I havent done this in the past and havent had an issue so far but I recomend you do it for longevaty.

Photo of 5me unit with 1g drive cog on it and a little dodgie machining with a flap dist to make it clear a step in the 1GGZE head, dont forget it should have a 10mm shaft poking out of the end of the gear about 10mm long to fit into the 1G head for support on both sides of the gear.



You need to pull the inductive sensors out of the 1G unit they look like this



Two are the once a rev sensors and the other is slightly different (its the constant pulse unit) they need to have the metal posts removed from them and modified to all be the same as the odd one.




So now you have 3 pickups that will match the 6 flags on the rotor all you need to do is mount them on the base plate inside the dizzy and make it all fit lol
more to come once i make a base plate ! Ps be carefull pulling the sensors apart there more delicate than they look , this one broke pullling the still post out of it. Luckly it was ok (tested witha mulit meter) and was just glued up with some Auto silicone, epoxy will do the same thing.



A dodgie base plate made up with tags from mounting plates out of the 1G unit. I used the vanes on the dizzys centre post as a guide to locate the sensors in the correct location, do try to get this right as 1 deg out on the dizzy is 2 deg out on the crank ! If your out by a little bit coke can can be used as shims to get it right.



Sensors mounted on base plate



Assembly of unit sensors fitted. Now all you need to do is remove 4 of the 6 tags from the Dizzy's post, ignore the post pictured in this photo its been setup for a hall effect sensor array.



Last but not least you need to find 3 igniter modules out of pritty much any single coil external igniter car . Usally there the ones with the coil mounted on the inner gard with the igniter under the coil. Wire the igniters to the sensor coils as you would a normal coil/distributor setup and then wire coil packs separatly to indevidual igniters.

[Sam_Q]

now that's what I call a proffesional answer, Redmohawk you make Toymods proud

[TTV8RA23]

Where is the rest??

[Redmohawk]

Due to to little sleep and possably a few to many drinks I mixed myself up a little last night and posted up some photos of the wrong bits , these have been edited and removed from earlyer post they were for a hall effect sensor setup, the vanes on the rotor will need modification but not like the old photo. 4 of the 6 vanes need to be removed leaving 2 vanes on opposite sides of centre post. Sensor's from 1G pickups also need to be modified as above.

Once photobucket decides it wants to upload more photos for me i will continue the saga.

[CHB]

Interesting to know how would you control the timing advance/retard?

[Redmohawk]

Its a distributor dude , its called mechanical advance two weights on springs thrown out by weight and centrifical momentum along with a vacume adavance/boost retard if your lucky.

[e30-323ti]

Its a distributor dude , its called mechanical advance two weights on springs thrown out by weight and centrifical momentum along with a vacume adavance/boost retard if your lucky.

I remember those lovely weights.
The dizzy on my old DOHC Turbo Mazda got cut in half when one of the springs broke & the weight flew out a bit too far lol

[CHB]

ohh i see... so you still use mechanical advance/retard....

[Redmohawk]

The 5me dizzy's weights are retained by the top plate so cant go too far if the springs break, and the top plate also has a limit pin to restrict mechanical advance to eather 8 or 10 distributor deg (16 or 20 crank deg) This pin also stops the possability of the weights destructing the dizzy.

Using different weight springs and prob the 8 deg slot in the top plate, I will be aiming for around 20 crank deg static timing with 16 deg mechanical to give a total of 36 crank deg advance coming in to full at around 3500 to 4000 rpm with a 8 deg boost retard. This will be a starting aim then onto a dyno for a more detailed look at timing when tuning gets more serious.

[thechuckster]

fwiw: old cordia turbos had a dashpot on the dizzi that was rated for boost retard as well as vacuum advance (other early mitsu turbos probably have similar thing) - you might find that the flimsy diaphragm in the 5ME dizzi bursts when you stuff boost into it.

[Redmohawk]

A healthy motor will provide around 25 inches of mercury of vacuum on overrun (Ie at speed going down hill and lifting off throttle) this is the equivalent of 14psi I'll be running around 10 psi boost for the first stage of motor. So old vacuum diaphram should be ok for the sort term with luck , but thanks for the sujestion.