18RG wont start

[rtrona]

Hi people,

I am currently in the process of putting an 18RG into my RT118. After a few little modifications and swap overs, i have now got the the point of starting it up. I was told when I purchased the engine that the solex's are out of tune and the ignition timing is out also. I checked the cam timing with the 'green bible' and it all looks fine. I pulled the distributor out. Put the old girl at 5 degree's BTDC on compression stroke and put in the dizzy as the 'green bible' says. Making sure it will fire plug 1 first.

It now when cranking just pops out the exhaust, i'm thinking its 180degree's out. I have pulled the dizzy out and re-done it all about 12 times now. I have had it too advanced but most of the time its just popping out the exhaust when cranking.

When i have put the distributor back in it never really lines up on any one (cant even find a word for this) notch on the inside of the distributor so i turn the distributor to the closest notch and make that number one... Its never turned too far.

Compression is all even and fine, its getting fuel, spark..

Hopefully its something simple... Please help guys, running out of motivation.

Thanks in advance.

Mark

[GT1978]

Couple of things you might do is check the jets in the solex's are still screwed in, and reset the idle mixture screws to make sure they are not massively over or under fueling the cylinders.
The jets in question are located under the cover on the top of the carbs and are brass I think with a slot for a straight end screw driver. Be sure not to over tighten or force as you may damage the slotted top. Idle mixture setting you should be able to find in your 18RG bible. Something like all the way in then 1 1/2 turns out.

Glen

[rtrona]

Cheers for the reply, i will check that. Another thing i have just noticed on the 18RG tractor engine thread is that the Dual marked crank pulley is TDC and 10deg BTDC. I have been using the 10deg BTDC as the 5deg BTDC mark. Would this cause such carry on with it?

[rtrona]

Well I checked all the jets and they were fine. I adjusted the mixture screws in like the green bible says. And still the same! Im cranking it without spark to get oil pressure. Then when it's fine. I hook up the coil lead it's not until I give it throttle that it will start popping and carrying on.

[S. Lowlux]

Timing is still out. You must have repeated the same error, what ?, 14 times now.
It won't matter how out of tune the carbs are. If fuel can get into cylinder it will fire but run like shit.
Popping out exhaust means fuel & spark but firing with exhaust valve open. Timing mark on balancer may be a liar due to slippage on the damper rubber, so lift the tappet cover & turn motor in correct direction of rotation till valves on number 4 are one just closing & other just opening. Set your distributor to fire on number one cylinder in that position & she will bark into life. Fine tune from there.
Owen

[rtrona]

I just done this and it's still in the same spot on the pulley. Still firing number one.. It kind of sounds like u have the exhaust under water. It makes a funny kind of noise when cranking. Thanks for your input though

[3jcelica]

def sounds spark/timing related

If it doesn't bark to life as suggested, leave the dizzy bolted down and move the leads, swap 1 and 4 and 3 and 2 (represting 180 deg out) as you don't know what position the cams where in. If it is making a back fire sound you are 180deg out go, swap the leads back and start cranking the engine wilst moving the dizzy.

Roger

[S. Lowlux]

Hi people,



When i have put the distributor back in it never really lines up on any one (cant even find a word for this) notch on the inside of the distributor so i turn the distributor to the closest notch and make that number one... Its never turned too far.
Mark

This is where our problem may lie.
Set the motor in the position that I explained, then put the distributor in as near as correct as you can. With the ignition on & the cap taken off, slowly rotate the dizzy body in the oposite direction to what the rotor turns when you crank the engine. As the points rubbing block rides up one of the four cam lobes on the dizzy shaft the points will go click & a visual spark will jump the point contacts. This is the firing position, fuck with the fitment till you get this in the centre position off clamping adjustment, nip the clamping bolt, turn off the ignition. The rotor button will be pointing to a plug lead position in the cap. This is number 1 cylinder. Replace the cap useing the number one as your starting point put in the leads in the firing order as they progress around the cap in the direction of rotation of the rotor button.
Then see if the bitch will go.
Owen.

[leso]

have you checked the firing order... the dizzy may rotate the opposite way than you think...check dizzy rotation with cap off and then check plugs leads match...how do i know such much about this problem...it has happened to me before...hides

leso

[TOY_RA28]

Hey bud i had the same problem couple of weeks ago re set timing 20 times still wouldn't fire theirs a wire going from the coil to the dizzy check and make sure the its getting proper contact mine was playing up under load not enough spark, try advancing dizzy and hold throttles wide open and spray some start ya bustard through the throats if its going to start it will start by doing that. Well mine did good luck