Calling all 1JZ VVTI owners: NA to 1JZ VVTI JZA80 conversion help needed!

[N/A_PWR]

Hey mate thanks for the reply, in case it makes any difference I did the na to TT tacho resistor (ohms) mod. Would this have any sort of affect on the gauge cluster? I will start by checking all the ground straps first and then work on the plugs.

[N/A_PWR]

Ok so i unplugged the II1 plug and cranked the car, fuse didn't blow so its definitely that plug.

I'm slowly going through all the pins that are linked to the comb meter. I double checked the wiring for the speed sensor plug according to wilbo's suggestion.

What i did was hook up supra II1 pin 23 (IG@alt) to soarer IJ2 pin 13(IG@alt) and spliced in a wire to pin 1 on the speed sensor. Is that ok to do?

[N/A_PWR]

UPDATE:
I did a little bit of testing and found out (first go too ) that pin 29 - tacho signal from ignitor on the II1 plug was the culprit in blowing my gauge fuse. It was wired to the soarer's IK1 plug pin 8 - tach signal combo. However by cutting the wire the car would not start but no fuse was blown. I tried hooking it up a few ways straight to the ignitor and tried to start the car but it wouldn't turn over.

Anybody have any suggestions on why the tacho signal wire might be the cause of the blown fuse? Remedies?

Cheers
Chris.

[N/A_PWR]

Anyone???

[wilbo666]

I would trace the JZZ30 IK1-8 pin with a multimeter, it sounds like it might not be the tach output from the igniter. It sounds like it might not be the JZZ30 igniter tacho output

You should be able to disconnect / unpin II1-29 on the JZA80 side and only have a non working tacho. Everything else should work, so it sounds like something is wrong (i.e. not running with that wire disconnected)

Cheers
Wilbo

[N/A_PWR]

Hey Wilbo always lovely to see your reply ok I will try that on the IK1 plug pin 8.

Ok so basically i need to find the tacho output signal on the loom. Can i hook that up directly to the comb meter? Or is it much easier to find the output signal and connect it to pin 29 on the II1 plug?

Yeah I was thinking that the other day that even if i disconnect the tacho signal only the tacho shouldn't work... so that would suggest another pin or more are not hooked up correctly... sigh..

Wilbo would you be able to do me a big favour and take a look at a document I will make up showing how I wired the soarer loom onto the II1 plug? I would be more than happy to compensate you for your time as it is has been more than deserving.

Cheers
Chris.

[N/A_PWR]

I would trace the JZZ30 IK1-8 pin with a multimeter, it sounds like it might not be the tach output from the igniter. It sounds like it might not be the JZZ30 igniter tacho output

You should be able to disconnect / unpin II1-29 on the JZA80 side and only have a non working tacho. Everything else should work, so it sounds like something is wrong (i.e. not running with that wire disconnected)

Cheers
Wilbo

Ok so I disconnected the IK1- 8 pin and traced it to the 'TAC' pin on the igniter and is grounded to IG- on the diag port.

I'm a little confused with the IGF signal on the igniter though. The IGT signal tells the igniter to fire and then the IGF signal on the igniter is supposed to confirm with the ECU that it has fired correct? So would that make it an output signal? Then does that mean I can hook the IK1 pin #8 to the IGF pin on the ECU? Or am I going about it the wrong way...

==>>>[TAC] igniter + [IG-] diag port = Tacho signal pin #8 on IK1 plug
==>>>[IK1 - pin #8] Tacho signal to [ECU - IGF signal] = yes/no???

[wilbo666]

What do you mean by "Grounded to the IG- on the diag port"? The igniter should tac output should be connected to this pin, but it shouldn't be grounded...

CORRECT ==>>>[TAC] igniter + [IG-] diag port = Tacho signal pin #8 on IK1 plug --> Should go to JZA80 tacho.

The IGF signal is for the engine ECU only.


It sounds like the JZZ30 side of the wiring is as expected, so you'll need to work out what you have changed on the JZA80 side to make the gauge fuse blow when you connect the JZA80 tacho input wire to the JZZ30 looms tacho output wire... (I'd be looking at the modification to the tacho you did, as that is probably the only change that you have made?!).

Cheers
Wilbo

[N/A_PWR]

Well when I trace pin #8 onto the TAC on the igniter it buzzes but it also buzzes when I put it on 'IG-' in the diagnosis port. I just assumed all the pins in the diag. port were grounds of some sort so I guess I was wrong

On another note, the car starts up fine even with the tacho signal disconnected Although the gauge fuse still blows... Yeah I will remove that 100Ohms resister on the tacho and see what happens...

Thanks
Chris.

[wilbo666]

No not all the pins in the diag ports are ground, lol.

On another note, the car starts up fine even with the tacho signal disconnected Although the gauge fuse still blows... Yeah I will remove that 100Ohms resister on the tacho and see what happens...

Thanks
Chris.

What the....? Not long ago you said the following...!

UPDATE:
I did a little bit of testing and found out (first go too ) that pin 29 - tacho signal from ignitor on the II1 plug was the culprit in blowing my gauge fuse.

I was basing my info off that... if the fuse is still blowing with the tacho disconnected then I'd be looking further than the tacho (and wouldn't bother taking apart the tacho to remove the resistor...)!



At a quick look I only see power from the gauge fuse on JZA80 pin II1-23... in my notes I have

II1-23, Yellow wire, supplies ignition power to Speed Sensor, Reverse Light Switch & Alternator (Via 10A GAUGE Fuse).
Pin 1 on Speed Sensor Plug, Pin 1 Reversing Lights, Pin 2 on Alternator.


Unplug all these and see if the fuse still blows would be my suggestion! Then perhaps start plugging them in one at a time (after checking wiring).
...

Cheers
Wilbo

[N/A_PWR]

Removed the resistor, fuse still blows.. I think I can rule out the tacho as being the cause of my blown gauge fuse since it is disconnected and I removed any modification to the tacho...sigh

I don't know what I could be missing.. Wilbo would you be able to take a look at my wiring for the IJ1 and II1 plugs please?? As mentioned above I will pay you for your time if need be

Cheers
Chris.

[N/A_PWR]

Whoops might help to refresh the page haha yeah I'm a noob (if you couldn't guess already) with the electrical side of the conversion lol

Ok will do, gonna start on it right now..only thing is I only have 2 10A fuses left haha so wish me luck!

[N/A_PWR]

BTW with the reverse light switch, do you mean the signal on II1-pin #36 or the actual wire on the gearbox? Just so happens that my reverse lights don't work either Since the engine was auto and I am using a W58 I had to hook up the yellow wire (power) and blue/white wire (reverse light switch) to the 2 wires on the round reverse switch on the gearbox. On the 1J auto harness the wire is blue/white instead of black/red as shown on mkiv.com auto to 6spd swap... So maybe I did something wrong there perhaps??

[leeti]

hi did you every get the body plugs worked out as im doing the 1jzgte swap to my mkiv supra. and its bin doing my head in for months now lol.
is there any chance of a hand please.
i will pay for your time.
thanks lee

[wilbo666]

hi did you every get the body plugs worked out as im doing the 1jzgte swap to my mkiv supra. and its bin doing my head in for months now lol.
is there any chance of a hand please.
i will pay for your time.
thanks lee

Check my wiki

Should have everything you need for the JZA80 side

wilbo666 / 2JZ-GE JZA80 Supra

Cheers
Wilbo