Fixing a rusty fuel tank

[3sgte]

Who has done it themselves instead of sending the tank out to be done?

Here are 2 shots before cleaning:



After Cleaning, before adding the Phosphoric Acid:



The tank is from a TA-63 Carina.
Has anyone ever cut one of these tanks open?
How much of the rust can I rely on the metal prep solution (phosphoric acid) to kill?
Access isn't really good to the interior of the tank, and I'd like to avoid cutting it open if I can. I would also like to avoid fuel surge problems though.

In the last picture you can see a pipe going "downward."
Does anyone have any diagrams of these pipes? I want to make sure I don't plug them up with the sealant when I put the sealant in the tank. I can see the end in the picture, and the end of a pipe in the fuel pump bowl, but I can't get into the rest of the tank to see if there is anything I am missing.

I am using the POR 15 kit:
http://www.por15.com/Fuel-System-Res...n/products/12/

Has anyone ever just left a the cleaned out tank like mine as it is, or is the sealer a must with all that bare (now unplated) steel? FWIW, the tank isn't leaking.

[thechuckster]

i would attack the insides with some form of sand/soda-blasting before painting. The phosphoric acid will only bond to the rust and the scale it leaves on the bare metal needs to be removed.

edit: a TA63 tank is probably much like if not identical to RA65 or MA61? All those tanks from RA40 hatch thru the EFI Coronas and xA60/1/3/5 can be swapped over without issue.

edit 2: don't block up any pipes - they're there for a reason.

[3sgte]

Yeah, I am very much planning on avoiding blocking those pipes at all costs.
I've just never done the "old car" thing before, and I've no experience whatsoever with rust in a gas tank.

Rust from the outside, that I am all too familiar with.

I guess I'll have to have another go at de-rusting it then. Access is really limited, blasting with sand/soda etc. would be tough to do.

[thechuckster]

If you get someone to sodablast it, the power is simply washed away (it dissolves in water).

No idea what the pipe is without wider pictures of the tank - tho something that feeds into the bottom is most likely the fuel return line from the engine bay. The line going to the charcoal canister (for the EVAP or simialr named system) will be in the roof of the tank.

If you've got a wide pic of the whole tank, it should be obvious whether the other above mentioned models would fit. I fitted an ST14x tank into an RA40 hatchback, and RA60 MA61 are identical. MZ1x are also the same but some (or all, not quite sure) have external fuel pumps.

[Xauterus]

Hello
Have a look at KBS Coatings. They do a fuel tank repair kit to suit old cars and motorbikes. It coats the inside of the tank. No need for blasting etc.

Corey

[MWP]

POR15 make a fuel tank resto kit too.
Treats the rust then seals up the inside.

[SilverRA23]

I had one that looked very similar in my RA23.. I took it to the local radiator bloke and he dipped it in his tank three times...then worked his magic on it.

Didn't cost that much really, so I am glad I left the hard work for him!

[o_man_ra23]

As previously said, the xA6x Celica fuel tanks should fit no dramas, as would RT142 (EFI) or ST141 (Carb) Coronas. If you get to the stage of needing to cut the tank, I would look at one of these instead. If you are running EFI, get an tank from a donor vehicle which had EFI.

[StuC]

That g2s bloke came across Malasis (as in cooking/kitchen treacle). You mix a few jars of it with water, fill it to the brim and let it sit for a while. If you can access it try giving it a light sand as well, guess it couldnt hurt. Check his AW11 build thread for pics and directions. I told a mate to do it on her bike tank and it worked a treat.

[o_man_ra23]

Molasses is often used by farmers as a supplement to feed animals. If you need large quantities, then feed stockist may be a good source. Unsure how it would give a treatment to rust though - would need to review the chemical makeup of molasses and what the reaction with ferrous oxide is.

[thechuckster]

Molasses is pretty good at attacking raw steel (and will consume the rust) - i've used it to put a new abrasive surface on a kitchen sharpening steel (coat steel in molasses, allow to dry but not run off, shove into the ground or a bucket of sand for a month or so, remove and clean. It leaves a finely pitted surface that's OK for keeping a knife sharp). Molasses is a whole swag of sugars.

Personally I think a replacement tank would be easier.

[parrot]

I think you will find that pipe is to supply fuel to the fully baffled area where the pump pickup sits.

Same as on an AE86 EFI tank, so yes, don't block it up!

[3sgte]

I need to do an update.

I've done the phosphoric acid treatment (aka Metal Ready)


I have plugged up both ends of that pipe using bolts buttered up with Toyota FIPG Black.
After I apply the coating, I am going to remove the bolts and clean out the pipe.

There is another vent pipe on the top of the tank that I also had to plug up.

Oh, and thanks Parrot!
I managed to get a bit more creative with the camera positioning and verified where the pipe went.
Once I could see it, it all made sense.

[hks7mgt]

POR15 make a fuel tank resto kit too.
Treats the rust then seals up the inside.

i used the POR15 Tank Repair Kit on my tank after a little surface rust built up (no where near as bad as yours) and it turned out better than brand new and now it'll never rust again - no matter what.

The POR15 suppliers said it'll work on tanks that are weeping so as long as your tank is not pouring fuel out it should be fine.

There is a cleaning agent that you keep rinsing the tank out with and then another agent that converts the rust to metal again (kills the cancer process) and then the POR15 paint seals it and that metal never see oxygen again!

This was after the cleaning and converting solutions and as you can see there is no longer any surface rust


This was after the POR15 paint

[3sgte]

Thanks.
That photo is quite helpful, as I was trying to figure out how thick the coating is.
(And the instructions say not to open the can until you will use it)

How was the coating? Did it smell?
If the smell is really strong, then I need to wait for a run of good weather. If it isn't too bad, then there is an attached garage I can do it in.
I just don't want to stink up the house.