Megasquirt users thread to discuss all things Squirty

[thechuckster]

old external hard drive cases are also good for 12V supply.

edit: stu, yes, that's the review in question.

[JP]

Look into the NGK AFX wideband with NTK sensor, much better option than an LC-1 for not much more cash. Only downsides are you can't connect to the controller via serial like the LC-1 and the display is built into the controller housing in the AFX (I'll be trying to remote mount the LCD panel in mine, looks easy enough)

I've got 3x LC1's, a techedge 2C0 and an NGK AFX througout my different cars, will be buying a couple more NGK AFX's soon from here: http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ind.../cPath/103_107

[oldcorollas]

answerign my own Q's..
has 0-5V analogue output.
comes with NTK sensor (is it L1H1 or L2H2 or something else?)
the calibrate every couple of weeks seems annoying, but i guess ok if you only use it as a tuning tool?
eek, $63 shipping....

how do you find the speed of the analogue/LCD output from each of them? (LC1 vs NGK) and accuracy?


http://www.bmotorsports.com/download...ual_REV_06.pdf

[JP]

I find the analogue DB gauges for the LC1's are really slow in comparison to their serial XD16 display and logworks. The NGK display looks to respond just as quickly as what the ECU reads from the 0-5V output.

They recommend calibrating the sensor once a month for a street car, same as the LC1/techedge bosch combo's. It's easier to calibrate the LC1 compared to the dial on the AFX, the AFX doesn't loose it's calibration as easily as the LC1. In one of my car's the LC1 controller seems to be a bit flakey. If you start the car and give the controller inconsistant voltage while it's in warmup it can completely stuff up the calibration, I've tried everything on that one wiring-wise to resolve it but it will still randomly stuff up.

All of my controllers with bosch sensors seem to read +/- 0.1 to 0.4 AFR out compared to the Dyno Dynamics (autronic) wideband with lab-grade sensor (depending on load etc), this is reading from the controller's serial output which isn't effected by ground issues that can plague the LC1.

The NGK seems to be within 0.1/0.2 AFR to the Autronic and a lot more consistent.

I'd really like a Motec PLM with NTK sensor but that's still a bit out of budget: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iyw8p1JB7E

Ballenger's shipping is a bit of a killer so I tend to order a whole lot of stuff to offset the shipping cost. In the next lot I'll be getting a few of those map/iat combo sensors along with some other stuff.

[oldcorollas]

ok, let me know when you order next... unless that puts it into GST/duty territory

hmm, they are still a fair bit cheaper than yahoo auctions (28900yen)

[oldcorollas]

MS2 arrived 6 days after ordering! weatherproof connectors look really nice.

i should have looked at Tunerstudio for MS2extra first tho... (how awesome is that bit of software?) as i could do with an MS2 stim and some other parts

[3jcelica]

Simply said Tuner studio rocks!

Tooth logging
megalogviewer
and just simply an awsome interface, love being able to select a group of cells and manipulating, I know megatune could do it also but seems so easy in tunerstudio.

Roger

[bajallama]

I had my LC1 burn out a sensor and not long after replacing the sensor had the whole unit go out. Peeled back the rubber insulator checked the voltages at the power supply and it randomly started working again but was pulliing that dreaded error 8 (check the Innovate Forums). I used an LM1 to tune my 3S AE86 a while back and then switched over to JAW. That worked and was super cheap (iirc $50 US for the kit). Sold that car now I'm squirting my KP, MS2/Extra v3.0, EDIS mods. Soldered the whole thing together and got her running. I didn't want another Innovate and wanted something for 200 or under. got this kit with Bosch Sensor and EGT probe for $200 shipped form Canada to the States: http://14point7.com/SLC-DIY.php. But know they have a DIY for the Plus 2 which can integrate a whole gauge set on your laptop or output to gauge, Oil, intake, boost, ETC. Its the same guy who started the JAW way back when.

[oldcorollas]

hmm, so where to attach the ignition driver, on a V2.2 PCB, with MS2 upgrade...
theres info around for V3 and MS2 upgrade, but not much for V2.2, except for MSnSe

for MS1extra V2.2pcb, you use one of the LED outputs (injector LED) as an output for spark to the coil driver (VB921), and that connects to R25 (squirt LED) (LINK)

MS2extra talks about using the IAC PWM outputs, to run 4 coil drivers, but i only need one , and want to keep Fidle, and also set one of the spare outputs for thermofan relay and maybe second Fidle... and want to keep the three LEDs
LINK (also has VR circuit)

but with MS2, you use pin5 of JP1, and connect that to the standalone VB921/BIP driver??
(LINK)

DIY's BIP installation guide..
will look around a bit more tonight, but a little confusing for those of us with older PCB's...

[3jcelica]

Alawys use the leds, Spark A right side of R25, Spark B right side of R28, spark C right side R26, spark D JP1 pin 4. I have always wired v2.2 (ms1&ms2) this way in fact all megasquirts I have used included V3.57 (doing it to the surface mounts gets a little tricky).

Have used the above both on extra and on B&G code

Roger

[oldcorollas]

Thanks Roger,
hmm, I guess it is not that much of a loss to lose the INJ LED...
do you leave the transistor (Q9?) etc installed so it becomes a IGN indicating LED?
or you remove and effectively have the IGN driver in place of the LED transistor?


MS2extra in tunerstudio has option to choose D14 or JS10 as spark output, which would be the INJ LED, (as does MS1extra, or can put it on Fidle), so extra still sacrifices other outputs for IGN outputs.
(edit: JS10 is the MS2's ign output on pin5 JP1)

the base MS2 code doesn't appear to have an option for selecting output channel for spark?? (in tuner studio or MT) so it appears to use pin5 JP1 which then drives the BIP?
can you set MS2 base code to use the INJ LED (in tuner studio or MT) ??

( pin5 of JP1 from the MS2 itself as the ignition output is shown here as shown here )
MS2 hardware desciption shows IGN as pin 17 on DIP20 (which goes to pin 5 JP1)
(and also mentioned here)


edit: for RPM input, am I right in thinking i can use a VR with a toyota ignitor, and put a pullup (1K?) to mimic a coil, and then just use normal input for MS (minus Dave cap..)??

[CHB]

yes you can use toyota ignitor as the signal conditioner and use 1kohm resistor to mimic a coil. But this setup only can be use if you still use the distributor to distribute the sparks.

[3jcelica]

CHB,

Have used that method on a fiat 124, with a 36-1 wheel megasquirt v2.2. This engine reved to 8000rpm and worked very well.

Roger

[oldcorollas]

ok thanks!
yes, i'll still be using dizzy for spark, as there are 4 teeth for the dizzys VR, so it wouldn't know which half of the cycle is which..

going to chuck the BIP on different parts today, and see which ones work on the stim and scope (assuming bootloader goes to plan )

[jabbatron]

..........