Megasquirt users thread to discuss all things Squirty

[oldcorollas]

that sound slike what i'm trying to do, but the V2.2 PCB doesn't have VR conditioner or coil drivers on it, and need to be added in... somewhere

[old_mr2]

Got my spare dizzy back off Harreh. Gutted it and am now preparing to grind off one tooth and set it up for 24-1. I want to make sure I grind off the right tooth! Do I grind off the tooth that lines up the the single toothed wheel further up the shaft? Is this single tooth TDC? I put the rotor on and it lines up exactly with the first point of contact with the rotor blade. Advice needed please, thanks. I want to get this right the first time.

[CHB]

CHB,

Have used that method on a fiat 124, with a 36-1 wheel megasquirt v2.2. This engine reved to 8000rpm and worked very well.

Roger

Thanks for the tips. I will definately use the same trick for my future Megasquirt build. Also, By using this method, I think we can pretty much get rid of the probability of getting noise from the VR sensor directly.

Did you still use a shielded wire to run the conditioned "square wave" from Toyota Ignitor back to Megasquirt?

[knightrous]

Got my spare dizzy back off Harreh. Gutted it and am now preparing to grind off one tooth and set it up for 24-1. I want to make sure I grind off the right tooth! Do I grind off the tooth that lines up the the single toothed wheel further up the shaft? Is this single tooth TDC? I put the rotor on and it lines up exactly with the first point of contact with the rotor blade. Advice needed please, thanks. I want to get this right the first time.

Have you read these threads yet?
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...f=101&t=37133& - Explains your options
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...?f=101&t=29146 - No tooth remove method
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...?f=101&t=28842 - Filing tooth method

Filing tooth diagram

There hasn't been any posts since 2008, so I'm guess it's a valid post in regards to correct information

I've just dropped a 4AGE 20V silvertop into my AW11, which has one of these 24 tooth dizzy's in it, so I'll be trying out the dual wheel method myself to see if I can get it to run without filing any teeth off, if that fails, I'll try option 2 with the 24-1 config

[3jcelica]

CHB,

I did run a shielded wire back, but thats because I had already wired it into the loom, as you state you would not need to.

Roger

[old_mr2]

Have you read these threads yet?
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...f=101&t=37133& - Explains your options
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...?f=101&t=29146 - No tooth remove method
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...?f=101&t=28842 - Filing tooth method

Filing tooth diagram

There hasn't been any posts since 2008, so I'm guess it's a valid post in regards to correct information

I've just dropped a 4AGE 20V silvertop into my AW11, which has one of these 24 tooth dizzy's in it, so I'll be trying out the dual wheel method myself to see if I can get it to run without filing any teeth off, if that fails, I'll try option 2 with the 24-1 config

Thanks mate, I just had a read thorugh these threads and now have information overload! I am trying to find someone using my exact same dizzy but its proving difficult. Thanks for the post.

I dont understand why 3 teeth to the left of TDC is ground off?

[knightrous]

Thanks mate, I just had a read thorugh these threads and now have information overload! I am trying to find someone using my exact same dizzy but its proving difficult.

Mechanically, your 4AGZE dizzy is the same as the 20V dizzy, it's just the 20V dizzy has the G wheel below the 24 tooth NE wheel.
From what I can gleam from the DIYPNP documentation and the links I provide in my last post, all you should have to do to make this work for you is the following:



Wire NE to VR IN +
Wire G- to VR IN -
Wire G2 to VR2 IN +

All the VR sensors in the toyota dizzy's share a common ground, which is G- in this case. After that, you should be able to jump into MegaTune/TunerStudio and setup your cam wheels as follows:

[old_mr2]

Thanks for your help Aaron. Matt Cramer has suggested that filing a tooth off is not necessary for MS2 Extra. I would like to try non tooth removal method on a bench before installing in a vehicle. I have sourced a 12v power supply. I will let you know how I go.

[knightrous]

Thanks for your help Aaron. Matt Cramer has suggested that filing a tooth off is not necessary for MS2 Extra. I would like to try non tooth removal method on a bench before installing in a vehicle. I have sourced a 12v power supply. I will let you know how I go.

Keep us up to date mate, I'm keen to try this myself, but I have to build another VR circuit for my MS2 before I can start testing.

[oldcorollas]

good to see some more MS chatter

fwiw, running base MS2 code (2.891?) the ignition comes out on JS10... so i'm going to wire up the BIP as per the Extra (and figure out where to put it), but on the JS10 pin, and see how it goes

oh, and make up a spark table.....

[3jcelica]

oldcorollas,

Sounds fine, just watch the inverted/non inverted setting in the software, with the feed coming from the leds the signal is usally inverted, but dependng on where you take it from (on the board) will effect this setting. Also not sure if there is a difference between VB921 and BIP.

Having said that the BIP are damn hard to kill (I have tried) compared to the VB921, once you get it running, feel the heat comming of the BIP, they get pretty warm when running incorrectly to the point it could burn you, when running right there should be little to no heat there.

Roger

[oldcorollas]

thanks again Roger,
I was planning to put the scope (dual trace) on the dizzy, ignitor, and the output from optocoupler to the leg of the processor this weekend, to make sure they all line up.
will try and find out which signal should be which

[toyo-al]

While on the topic of ignition signal, distributors, etc... We finished putting together what is basically a MS2 Extra. Everything is working perfectly, except it's not reading the VR at low rpm (only starts to read consistently at around 5-4K rpm). Anyway, my mate is changing the circuit for the ignition side of things, and I've just installed a hall effect sensor in the 3T-GTE distributor. Should eliminate any chance of the pickup not getting a strong enough signal so long as the hall effect gets a signal at all..

Just uploading some pics now, I'll post them here once they're done!












Note it will be properly covered in a heat-proof resin once it is tested and known to be fully functioning.. We're going to test it tonight and hopefully we can get an accurate reading. If all goes well, the car will be started tomorrow for the first time in 12 months!!!

Handy little thread here - Cheers OC

- Al

[3jcelica]

toyo-al,

looks interesting let us know how it goes, can you tell me what main board you where using when the vr was not reading consitently?

Roger

[toyo-al]

PM Sent Roger