I agree you can do it with a normal bar but these get into tight spaces and seem to direct the impact better. Just thought I would put it out there in case no one has seem them....
****s have been doing that for years with normal bars
I do it on a few excavator final drives, stupid engineer made a drain plug with a 5mm hex socket and after being tracked through mud, rocks, dirt, sand etc they seize up. Stick a shitty bar with a bit of pipe over a inhex socket, lean on it and give it a good hit with a big hammer and hey presto![]()
I agree you can do it with a normal bar but these get into tight spaces and seem to direct the impact better. Just thought I would put it out there in case no one has seem them....
Sidchome also make one, but they also make the biggest and best 1/2" breaker bar.
750mm of awesomeness, its a special order and the sore point of the snap-on rep![]()
Anyone got any ideas on how to hold a hub from rotating in a car that has the gearbox removed, and the brakes inoperative(installing ABS)???
The passenger side nut is just a little tight on the Levin and I need to swap the shafts to the LSD type for the 4AGZE swap.
Put a tyre on and put the wheel onto the ground would be the only way besides a rattle gun that I can think of. Try a steel wheel if the centre hole in the alloy is to small
You should specify where in NSW you are if you looking to borrow some tools. its a big place![]()
Stick a bar through the studs and jam it in the ground![]()
only problem is that the car has no wheels at all and is on stands, the rims are awaiting tyres.....
Tried that, and bent my bars (including a spare rear lateral arm). I'm thinking of welding up a bar onto a circle plate that has the stud pattern drilled into it, which I can bolt to the hub then brace to the ground.
Going through this myself atm. First side came off easily (too easily actually, quite loose) but the other side is a bit trickier.
Getting enough torque isn't a problem, my breaker bar is decent and i've got a real nice 2m extension for it. But finding something to brace it with is proving harder. Shoved a bit of angle iron between the studs and twisted that like butter. Some pipe didn't fare much better. Then somehow I managed to bend my friggin crowbar.
The issue is finding something with a thick enough wall so the section won't collapse locally, and long enough that the whole hub doesn't just rotate around the end. Being a cheapskate makes it harder![]()
Go to a tool store and buy a chrome vanadium jimmy bar
http://krewtools.com.au/index.php?pa...mart&Itemid=33
That's what you want, you will break the hub before you bend or snap an OTC bar![]()
People put all sorts of shit on the Taiwan made sidchrome stuff, never seen any of the ratchets, normal sockets or bars break. Guys at work use and flog them like no tomorrow, I've got a bunch of SWG sockets (made by stanley/sidchrome) and they are bulletproof. Same goes for all the repco gear, cant break it and all of the older (snap-on staple customers) guys like it. Seen a few of their sockets with the chrome worn off (not flaked) from so much use without fail![]()
I use my Sidchrome retchets like hammers and generally abuse them (pretty badly actually) and they just wont break.
Their 1/4" ratchets suck hard though. I hate them, the direction selector lever is loose on both of mine and wont stay in position.
Yeah they can be iffy but it seems all 1/4" ratchets bind up and fail with enough use.
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