Tools to remove drive shaft nuts.

[dnegative]

JBS is good shit, watched someone at work try and break a ratchet by undoing hex cap bolts (500nm) with one. Ratchet would go on and he would flog it with a hammer, cracked em all and it still worked

[pandaah]

i use kinchrome at work.. only buy snap on for the heavy stuff i know i may break and dont wanna keep shelling out money for, like misc size impact sockets etc..

tho, ive had my deep 14mm impact replaced twice cos the inside of the socket wears out and goes to strip bolts.. im very pissed when a $50 single hex socket strips nuts on the exhaust manifolds

also, i bought the snap on rattle gun, thats bout $750 - $800 bucks worth.. ive undone every single CV nut thats ever come in.. brocken multiple sockets and still going hard.. best investment ever..

[mick08]

nother good idea instead of using a pipe and muscle power with that breaka bar is to put the long breaka bar on the nut and let it rest on the ground and use the engine/trans power to undo the nut, just start it up and move in the right direction to undo the nut, best to use a single hex socket preferably impact, ps if you come across one of those 7point sockets get a pic and post it bahahaha.

[Dale]

nother good idea instead of using a pipe and muscle power with that breaka bar is to put the long breaka bar on the nut and let it rest on the ground and use the engine/trans power to undo the nut, just start it up and move in the right direction to undo the nut, best to use a single hex socket preferably impact, ps if you come across one of those 7point sockets get a pic and post it bahahaha.

I've often wondered about trying that method but wondered of the possible consequences if shit hit the fan... have you ever tried it?

[mick08]

I've often wondered about trying that method but wondered of the possible consequences if shit hit the fan... have you ever tried it?

havn't done it on a driveshaft nut but have done it on harmonic balancer on a commodore V6,worked well.

[dangdang]

make sure u use a 7 point socket too, not a 12 point or whatever they are

Good lord..theres a reason a 2j fell into hic..s rona

I also note...driveshaft on what?!?

[BLK_20v]

my Sidchrome 60cm breaker bar has never let me down, nor have i needed to use additional poles etc. on it.

Use Impact sockets too

[asimovy]

Got a replacement for the breaker bar today and gave it another shot with the pole on the end again, still no luck.

Tried an impact socket and nothing happened.

Tried heating the nut and using both of the above methods and same result.

Can anyone lend or rent me a rattle-gun and/or compressor? Going to kennards soon otherwise :S

[Talasas]

Ahh I felt your exact pain about two weeks ago, I also posted on here about it (link here. I had the same problem with a hub bolt that just wouldn't budge at all. It was by far the most stubborn bolt I've had to deal with. One thing I'll point out is at this stage the usual obvious stuff won't always work, for example many people say "use a breaker bar". Most breaker bars by design aren't very strong for this sort of thing, you will snap the pin that hold the middle section pretty quickly if not you'll bend the forks of it if you put an extension on it.

This is what I tried (some of this is repeated from my old thread):

- Soaking the jesus out of it with WD40, nothing.
- My trusty uber bolt loosener, broken. This was something I made a few years ago by welding up the insides of a busted 1/2" ratchet drive, worked well for year but this eventually spun the welds on it.
- Breaker bar, won't budge, bent breaker bar.
- Sidchrome 1/2" L-bar with 1.5m extension and me jumping up and down on it, broken (Sidchrome warranty anyone?)
- Hammer and cold chisel, smashed the hell out of it, nothing apart from denting the crap out of the top surface of the nut.
- Heating up the nut with blowtorch, made no difference.
- Rattle gun, mine's probably beefy but not a super heavy duty one however.
- Hammering the drive shaft itself (is already written off), smashed the crap out of it, no change.
- Tightening it first then trying to loosen it, didn't budge.
- Loctite Freeze and Release, put almost a while can of it on, didn't do anything, waste of $16 unless the bolt is actually rusted.

Then the successful one:

- Drilling the bolt, broke two cheapo drill bits first. Then bought a proper small drill bit, gave it hell with the drill, drilled all the way through the bolt. Got a bigger drill bit and did the same thing but only half way. Then I got out my tungsten carbide burr and die grinder and grinded the crap out of it until I hit the thread of the drive shaft. I got a round tapered chisel (like a hole punch) I had lying around and big hammer and started hammering it into the hole, this split the nut and I saw it lift from the thread. I could then still fit a socket over it and undo the nut. Took about and hour of drilling, grinding and hammering but it finally came loose.

I'll point out that the car I did this on had dead outer CVs which I was replacing anyway so grinding into some of the thread of the drive shaft wasn't a problem. Good luck, I hope it works.

[thechuckster]

(assuming this is an AWD/FWD car?) remove wheel, unbolt strut, unbolt caliper, unbolt steering arm, unbolt ball joint from lower control arm, remove hub+driveshaft, take as one unit to a workshop where they can undo it (and point at you laughing) ?

[pandaah]

you know you could just drive to a mechanic first and get him to loosen the bolt with his uber gun, then tighten it up by hand then drive home?..

haha.. gees

and if you put a steel rim on you dont even need to take the wheel off to loosen the nut..

[thechuckster]

if it's a FWD/AWD, you need the driveshaft nut torqued up otherwise you fuckup the wheel bearing quick smart - and likelihood of munting the hub/shaft increases accordingly.

[dnegative]

Where are you?

I've got one of the most powerful 1/2" rattle guns in production (IR 2135timax), the $1000 snap-on one is 15nm stronger

[asimovy]

This is in an na sw20 and the motor is dead.

[td42gq]

It seems none of you have mentioned it yet so I will throw it out there in case none of you have heard of them.

There is a relatively new invention (3-5 years old i would think) that is called a "Power Bar" which is made by ABW I believe. The theory behind it is simple it looks like a long bar with an offset leg on the bottom that suits a 1/2 inch socket. On the end of the long rod is a flat area that you smack with a hammer.

We use them in the industry for things like harmonic balancer bolts as you can't get your rattle gun in there due to lack of room. These things are the gear and I am yet to see a bolt that won't come undone after some good solid hits.

As previously mentioned you will require an imapct socket as cheap sockets will just break.

Here is a link incase you want to check it out:
http://www.onlinetoolshop.com.au/pro...act-Wrench/474

I hope that helps
Aaron