Stock Toyota ones are said to be quite good. However you can't get them in 92mm bore, so it was Cometic for me. $80 plus freight from the US.
my 18R-GTE has been O-ringed.... and I am running a stock Toyota head gasket (for the 18R-GEU) cos it looks like a realy good quality multi-layered gasket, unlike the aftermarket crap you get for 18RGs.
Was cheap to, at around $50-60 trade from castle hill Toyota
We'll see if that blows or not![]()
...... butt scratcher?!
Stock Toyota ones are said to be quite good. However you can't get them in 92mm bore, so it was Cometic for me. $80 plus freight from the US.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
O ringing and decent head studs go a long way to preventing the BHG issue (I recommend O ringing the head when it is off), mill down the head bolt posts by 20mm and install a set of ARP studs to suit the Mitsubishi Astron 2.6L.
Make sure you're not asking for something that is not on (IE too much static comp with your boost); the combustion chamber design is simply not up to it.
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
..........
Last edited by jabbatron; 27-08-2015 at 02:55 AM.
Your head may not be flat; o ringing pretty much becomes mandatory with the copper gasket (my rule), you will then need to use a suitable silicone to seal it all up.
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
I have seen copper head gaskets leak like a sieve on freshly milled surfaces when not combined with o-ringing. I wouldn't use a copper unit if I wasn't going to o-ring.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
Just got a note from Toysport:
pulling out an 18R, next week
just making sure the engine is haelthy
will use the engine for base test
then switch your pump
These pumps may actually happen!
fuck yeah!!!
I want a pump.
...... butt scratcher?!
Ok
So I'm back into the 18gte now that I've come across a 2.4L bottom end, there are two Items I need to get to hopefully make this a fairly solid motor. 1st is some custom conrods, what is people thoughts on what to use I or H beam and what brand? 2nd is injectors I know I need signal spray pattern but what have people used with great sucess, last time I use 13bt 550cc injectors and they were ok but this time I'm looking at something up around the 800cc to 900cc, 3rd is a crank girdle I'm thinking it would not be a bad idea. Thoughts?
Alex
Alex
Not sure if there is any advantage either way between H beam and I beam. Factory is I beam and they take some punishment. I beam probably gives better wind-drag properties.
SARD make injectors to suit. I know they do either a 700 or 770cc (can't remember which), however it is likely they will do bigger also. Check their catalog.
Crank girdle isn't a bad idea if you are going to be making bulk torque. You will probably need to have it custom made from billet steel. You will need to think about what forces you are protecting against, and have it designed to try and counter those forces.
Just how much boost are you going to force into this beast? If you are making enough to warrant a crank girdle (the 18R block wasn't half bad to start with), then I hope the rest of your motor will be up to task. Good luck with it, would be pretty wild to see the end result.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
Save your pennies Alex, just get the stock rods linished and shot peened....they'll need the side grind anyways so only a small amount of extra work for the machine shop.
I haven't seen an 18RG bottome end really let go so i don't think the girdle is needed. It can't hurt though, so it would come down to how much stuffing around is involved for me?
Injectors? a full custom rail or sticking with the stock rail and a Bosch style injector?
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
Boost i'm going for the 20+psi mark with a t04b. Conrods I know i can get away with standard but I'm a little worried with the extra throw of the 22r crank. I've got a custom rail but it was made for the bosh injectors, I do still have a piece of fuel rail extrusion that i can nuse if needed, but I'll look into the SARD ones.
I'll play around with the crank girdle and see what I can come up with.
Alex
SARD are generally a straight swap for Bosch so easy peasy and more flow choices than you'll need.
You can try emailing this guy
[email protected]
He may not have survived the US FC, but if so he did me a great deal on some Bosch style injectors for the GT8 to run E85.
BTW, i ran as much as 30psi on the stock rodsbut if you are happy to spend the money then a set of Eagle rods certainly won't be a bad thing
![]()
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
Thanks for the email address Justen I'll shoot one off to him also and see what he can do.
PM from Toysport this morning regarding the oil pump proto:
the 18R is ready to go machine shop... I will try to make this happen soon....
having end-of-the month panic situation right now....
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