22Rs have better reinforcing around the main bearings. Struts are thicker and generally better.
Still, I won't be chasing 600hp, so if it is good enough for Finnish drag racers, the stock block should be ok for me.
Yeah, I'm struggling to see how a massive lump of iron like the 18R block could warp as well.![]()
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
22Rs have better reinforcing around the main bearings. Struts are thicker and generally better.
Still, I won't be chasing 600hp, so if it is good enough for Finnish drag racers, the stock block should be ok for me.
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
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Hi all,
I'm ordering the flanges for the turbo exhaust manifold today...well maybe tomorrow given the late notice12mm mild steel, $25 plus post....who's in? Need to get cash to me asap. If they turn out cheaper because we get good numbers it'll be postage inclusive.
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
Is that price for both the head flange and the T3 flange?
I want 3 head flanges and 1 flange to suit RB25 turbo, I think that is a T3.
I'll repeat this post to your PM and the 18RGTE thread
cheers,
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
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i thought the RB25 had the T28 flange??
...... butt scratcher?!
That would have been with very high octane fuel I assume, and all sorts of cooling everywhere.Originally Posted by JustenGT8
That makes me wonder what the maximum practical boost level is that would you be able to handle with (lets say) 10:1 and 98 octane fuel. I know the intake temp is dependent on the comp ratio of the compressor (I can work that out) , but I have no info on the relation between octane ratio and compression.
Would there be graphs of detonation threshold for given octane ratings? Rules of thumb?
I don't just want to whack something together, only to find out that I can only run 3 psi before I run into detonation trouble.
Projects: No project cars left ...
There's really no relationship between CR and octane, there are too many external factors influencing when detonation will occur. Head material, combustion chamber design, even cam timing all come into the equation.
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
Nope, just pump fuel. As for cooling, the stock 22 rad and a supra FMIC...nothing special at all really.
My current proj runs 10:1 comp and 13psi no probs at all. I know of a very similar combo that ran 18psi and i plan to run 16psi once i find the time to tweek a few niggling issues.
For rules of thumb there really aren't any other than run the least boost you can to get the hp you want.
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
Thanks for your comment.Originally Posted by Norbie
I realise that it is not straightforward, but for an 18RGEU with stock cams, running 98 octane, I was hoping to find some relationship between intake temperature, boost level and CR, that would give me some direction in my turbo project.
Just taking the safe option and dropping the CR to 7 is not an option for me, as the engine will be gutless on low revs and you need about 5 psi or so before you are even back on "stock" N/A CR=10 performance. And that is throughout the rev range.
I would prefer at least a CR of 9, maybe 10, but only if I can run up to about 1bar (15psi) . This is where I think piston cooling comes in (as one of the measures), but I have not worked out yet how to do that with the 18RG block.
Projects: No project cars left ...
Thanks Justen, that is good news. I'll start looking for piston options around 10:1. I'll also try and find the most efficient compressor around, to limit the temp increase in the intake.Originally Posted by JustenGT8
Projects: No project cars left ...
Just use a forged version of the stock 9.7:1 and you are sweet, plus you know all clearances etc will be spot on. ARIAS do an off the shelf that used in my 18RGT and i'm sure most will have something to suit.
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
Right you are there Witzl. My memory failed me on that one. There are just too many letters numbers involved with modern engines.
Anyway, I'm definately in for three head flanges.
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
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just to say love the info
oh and also having a nissan stagea, most if not all rb25det's come with t3 flanges.
Ian
"If you can see Chuck Norris, he can see you. If you can't see
Chuck Norris you may be only seconds away from death."
Ohhh, now hy head hurts,
Is anyone able to post up T3 and T28 bolt patterns.
Cobzzz, would you happen to know what the compressor wheel from an RB25 45v4 is made from? It weights almost nothing, it's totally matt black and feels like plastic. I realise it wouldn't be plastic, but the little mazda BP compresor wheel we've got weighs heaps more.
I'd like to find out what it is made of before I use it.
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
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Thanks, JustenOriginally Posted by JustenGT8
18rg is not listed here:
http://www.ariaspistons.com/toyota.html
So I assume you used something else as a replacement?
Anyway I'll give their Australian distributors a ring on Monday.
Projects: No project cars left ...
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