The 18R-GTE reference manual ...

[RA23]

I've noticed quite a few people on this forum mentioning plans to turbo their 18RG. I have got similar plans and I thought it might be good to share some ideas/plans/experience in this thread. What works and what does not, etc. I know there are bits of info in many other threads (also on the old site), but it would be good to bring it together.

I was hoping we could collect facts, figures and ideas about things like:

-mods to bottom end (comp ratio, oil squirters, other pistons/rods, ...)
-mods to head (porting, cams, valves, ..)
-available off-the-shelf bits (metal gaskets, manifolds, etc)
-reliability
-realistic hp target vs. cost
-which turbo
-plumbing, intercooler, bov
-general layout
-what computer (MS?)
-ignition mods

Yes, I know: "why go through the trouble of turboing 18RG? go 1G-GTE" .... blah-blah ... burning money .... blah-blah ... more hp/$ ... blah-blah...

The answer is: Just because, allright!

[Lambolica]

The answer is: Just because, allright!

werd

I will be watching

[RA23]

Some stuff that I found on the internet:
-under 250 hp standard 18RGEU 8.3:1 comp pistons will do
-under about 250-300 hp no mods to bottom end necessary
-under about 250 hp no o-ringing required
-10 psi should get about 200 hp
-turbo options: CT26, GT25, T03
-oil feed from location of oil light sender (just put a T-piece in there)
-3T-GTE injectors
-total budget from about $2-3K (with lots of DIY and hoarding)

[Norbie]

-total budget from about $2-3K (with lots of DIY and hoarding)

Very, very, very optimistic.

As with all projects like this, count on it costing 2-3 times more than you expect.

[71RA20]

Some info for reference from Toysport

MODIFIYING THE 2TG AND 18RG

The 2TG and 18RG, in all the different varieties- offer immense tuning combinations.

Block: The 2TG blocks were similar to the 2T and 3T blocks of the same year generation. For modification purposes the 3T block is preferred because it has the longer stroke crank, and with a bore-up to 89mm becomes a 2000cc. The later model 2TGEU block is the same as the 3T, and will take the 3T crank with no modifications. The 2TG stock block can be bored to 1750cc, with a similar bore-up to 89mm. To fit the 3T crank in an original 2TG block can be done with a lot of work- grinding the inside of the block skirts to clear the rods. The 2T and 3T cranks are forged. There is also available a 2150cc. using a modified Toyota 4Y crankshaft. The 4Y crank is not forged, but there is an aftermarket steel billet unit. In converting a single cam block to a twin cam, aside from switching over all the front valve train components, the original cam bearings have to be turned and repositioned. You must have a complete donor Twin Cam to do the conversion. Installing the 2TG into any T engined Corolla is a bolt-in deal with no modifications to the crossmember or brackets.

The 18RG block can be bored to 2200cc (92mm) or stroked to 2400cc (using a modified 20/22R crank). No the 18RG head will not bolt on a 20R/22R block! The stroker crank is not recommended. Aside from the very expensive to modify to fit the 18RG block, it seriously cuts into the revving characteristic of the Twin Cam. The 18R blocks did not change that much, but installing into the later model pick-up and Celica will need the newer block that have the extra engine support holes embossed on the sides of the block. Because of the wider variety of models the engines originally came in, there are 4 different oil pans, six different engine brackets. Fitting into specific applications will be a matter of matching the oil pan configuration to the original engine; and the engine brackets to the width of the crossmember. On the older Celicas with the 18R engine- it is a bolt on by using the pan and brackets off the original engine.

Cylinder Head: The early generation 2TG and 18RG heads had the best camshaft profiles and carburetors. They will respond extremely well to porting and big valves. If the block is bored out or the compression raised, longer duration cams will be needed. The mid-generation 2TGU and 18RGU heads had bigger valves, hardened seats, lower duration cams, and problematic carburetors. This is the head to use for turbocharged applications- since the head can be used with the original cams with the hardened valve seals and the (piston) compression is lower. The 2TGEU and 18RGEU had the reinforced heads, bigger valves, and the lowest compression (pistons). The EFI intake can be retrofitted back to carburetors.

The Twin Cam head must only be machined by experienced machine shops. Valve service and installation is very critical. If not properly machined there will be a problem adjusting the shims, valve spring tension, and camshaft timing adjustment. The head must not be surfaced more than 1 mm or .040 in. Please read notes under Recommended Set-ups / Race configuration!

Fuel System: The best performance can be achieved by using Fuel Injection over the carburetors. The standard Toyota ECUs are in short supply, but the most reliable set-up. For the EGU engines- the early 4AG Corolla GTS and MR2 computers can be used, since they operate within the same rpm range. Programmable Fuel Management systems will allow high compression, and radical cams- even turbo. Carburated motors will need Mikunis or Webers- if the stock Mikuni-Solex are not serviceable or to up-grade the GU carbs. For bored-out 18RGs the minimum carburetor size is at least a 44, and 40s will be sufficient for the 2TG up to 2000cc. The chokes must be changed to match the displacement. Turbocharging through carburetors is limited to about 10 psi using a fuel pressure-adjusting regulator. Do not rely on the Toyota mechanical or electric pump- use a low pressure, high volume pump.

Ignition System: The latest generation 2TGEU and 18RGEU use a breakerless distributor. Older units can be up-graded using original Toyota distributor components from later models. Ignition amplifiers and knock sensors must be used to avoid high RPM misfires and detonation. Wire sets that have the original configuration are the best to use- they keep dirt out of the deep sparkplug pockets that may enter the block when the plugs are serviced.

[RA23]

Very, very, very optimistic.

As with all projects like this, count on it costing 2-3 times more than you expect.

I recall a certain someone who said in 2002:

What makes you think an 18R-G is so expensive? I purchased and installed mine for under $2k, and that includes an RX7 turbo, custom manifold and intercooler. The only remaining costs are intercooler piping and slight mods to the exhaust, but it's still not going to crack the $2k mark. I'm not saying this setup will be better than a 1G, but if you're doing this on a budget and don't mind getting your hands dirty, a turbo 18R-G represents excellent value.

So has inflation hit us that hard, have you moved your goalposts or is there a lot more to it than you initially thought?

PS: I am not tryin to be a smartass, I just want to learn from other's experience

[The Witzl]

ah yes, but at that stage he could be referred to as "Mr Bracket"..... the man who installed a 2JZ into his MA61 using a series of brackets, cable ties and inexplicable birds nests.....
... his plans were about as ghetto as you get

Since then he has been re-edumacated, thankfully.
And he cut his hair off.


A decent, moderate 18R-GTE build is probably going to cost you around the $5k mark, depending on how much you can do yourself, and how lucky you are in scoring cheap parts.

My budget so far is probably looking closer to the $8-10k mark, but i'm in no mood to start adding up how much i've spent - i just look foward at the costs in front of me (around $4k, at a guess).


My engine....
- forged pistons
- H-beam rods
- 88250 head
- stock valves
- upgraded valve springs
- head studs
- stock EFI intake manifold, for now
- large injectors (550cc or bigger)
- JMR exhaust manifold
- Garrett GT25 440hp turbo
- china national racing intercooler
- Autronic SM4
- sard fuel press. regulator
- walbro fuel pump

.... i cant remember the rest.

The aim is to go fast.

[RA23]

My current plans are to go with a stock bottom end and use a MegaSquirt computer. This should keep costs down. I am aiming for 200-250hp. Anything more is suicidal in my car as it is (in desperate need of suspension mods). Also I want to last as long as possible with the stock (rebuilt) W50 and std diff.

As far as other parts go, I have 5 18RG's sitting around in various states of decomposition (2 of them EFI), so I hope to be able to build one reasonably good one out of that without excessive cost.

Another thing that I am looking into is this:
http://www.ststurbo.com/

I am still investigating, but I can see a few clear advantages:
-standard extractors and exhaust (no muffler)
-cooler turbo, cooler intake air, may not even need intercooler
-cleaner situation under bonnet (I like empty engine bays)
-lower cost of complete installation

Even if (compared to a standard install) it would give lower hp for the same boost level and be more laggy it may still be worth considering because of the advantages. Note that their site claims that there is no excessive lag and that it provides more hp for a given boost level (maybe because if intake temperature).

... and how cool would it be to have a turbo instead of a muffler!

[The Witzl]

........

i cant believe someone has actually gone through and MARKETTED my hair-brained intentionally idiot idea of "remote-mount-turbo"!!!!!

... ok so maybe my idea was a roof mounted turbo, but this is just as stupid.

The Witzl sez no.


Just do it normally.

[RA23]

........
The Witzl sez no.

Can you support this with some more convincing words? How about all the car mag articles on their site that are all positive? Are they all in on the scam?
I like to be sceptic too, but what are the reasons that it would not work? The energy in the exhaust gasses would not be that much different in those few metres (temp down, but mass-flow same)?

BTW, I like your idea of a roof mounted turbo, let's disconnect it from the engine, give it its own combustion chamber and it will produce thrust! I think we'll call it a turbo-jet.
What do you think, shall we file for a patent?

[The Witzl]

I'll put it this way:

Every single article, review and comment on these turbo systems is from an American.

Have you ever heard of this being done in Australia?



.... there's a good reason why you havent.

[TurboRA28]

Heat is good

[RA23]

STS Turbo Australia Pty. Ltd.

Squires Turbo Systems, Inc. is excited to announce that remote mounted turbo technology is now available down under!

STS has entered into an exclusive agreement with international racing legend, Peter Boylan and his partner John Reece. STS Turbo Australia will be selling existing STS turbo systems as well as creating new systems for vehicles in Australia.

The new facility is located at 448 Pacific Highway in Artarmon and the toll free telephone number is 1-800-300-200. This is a state of the art fabrication and tuning facility with an All Wheel Dyno.

STS Turbo Australia
Suite 7
3rd Floor
448 Pacific Highway
Artarmon NSW 2064
Australia

Phone: +61 2 9428 8000
Fax: +61 2 9427 9122

[millsi]

very interesting! but you still have to run an intake pipe from the turbo with an ic mounted somewhere along the way thats going to get fresh air! not too mention the pressure drop from the distance the air has to travel
turbos also get some of their power from the heat of the exhaust gas which will be reduced by having it so far away. a better way would be to have the cat (flow restriction) after the turbo instead of infront of it.
id like to see one of these in action

[The Witzl]

negating all the obvious peformance flaws of a turbocharger mounted eleventy billion miles from the engine.....

.... what about the engineering design flaws outside of performance????

-> Would any engineer in their right mind possibly CONSIDER passing one of these?
-> You are adding several engine critical components to the UNDERSIDE of your car which is completely unprotected from external conditions... that's bad!


Well, if bogans with commonwhores want a boot mounted turbo - they can go for it!