The 18R-GTE reference manual ...

[o_man_ra23]

I was referring to your 18R-GTE smarty pants

I think you have kept the 88 running well by whispering in her ear and telling her you will load her up with bricks again if she plays up...

nyuk nyuk nyuk

Seeyuzz
Oman

[river]

Hi,

Well, I am the 18R-G whisperer.

My 18R-GTE is ready and has been for a few weeks. This week, now that ToyotaFest is over, Trini goes off the road while the engine gets put it. When she's done she will be doing plenty of revs.

Crikey... for 30+ years I've been gentle and sweet to the 18R-G in The 88... but Trini's 18R-GTE is another thing altogether. I've been waiting 30 years to thrash the christ out of an 18R-G, and finally I get the chance!

seeyuzz
river

[JustenGT8]

Hi,

Well, I am the 18R-G whisperer.

My 18R-GTE is ready and has been for a few weeks. This week, now that ToyotaFest is over, Trini goes off the road while the engine gets put it. When she's done she will be doing plenty of revs.

Crikey... for 30+ years I've been gentle and sweet to the 18R-G in The 88... but Trini's 18R-GTE is another thing altogether. I've been waiting 30 years to thrash the christ out of an 18R-G, and finally I get the chance!

seeyuzz
river

and you won't regret it

My 1st 18RG drive was the night i bought the 23 and took it for a familiarity drive with my mate driving his 18RG 28....2 18RGs racing around Canberra at full noise for 2 hrs . Mine was mildly worked with big 45mm webers, i'd never felt or heard anything so tough. A tank of fuel later i was a totally converted

Could be a slippery slope for you River....a new chapter in your life so to speak

[Gumwah]

Good stuff, well im doing the body, brakes, suspension etc before i do the engine anyway so by the times its time to do the engine there should be some results posted and hopefully they're good.

[o_man_ra23]

Yeah, I'm going the exact opposite direction Gumwah. Your direction is the correct way, but they do say we are pretty backward up here...

My theory is that during run in the motor won't be capable of much output and I'm getting old enough to know that the brakes are capable of less, so I'll do the motor, then brakes, then suspension (possibly at the same time as the brakes), then pull it all back apart for the body, as there have been some drastic changes which would have ruined a new paint job if I did the body first.

Anyways, after 2.5 hours of charging I now have 25% charge in the Optima D51, so will give it another hit of charge tonight and see if it cranks quick enough to get a signal before I go to bed.

[Gumwah]

My body shouldnt need any modification except maybe to fit the i/c, most of the body work im doing myself anyway except for getting ripples out of the doors. cutting out the rust and welding new steel in myself, only two spots anyway. save about $1k in stupid repairs. prep and paint im doing myself also. keeping the bad ass rubber bumpers, anyone wants to hit me their car is getting mangled

[o_man_ra23]

What about fuel pumps, surge tank, new fuel lines, different brackets for things like battery, fuel pressure regulator, oil catch can, air filter etc?? All these little ancilliaries that you will want once you go turbo and EFI will need custom fitment, and when you are grinding and welding brackets, you don't want to have fixed the paint first. Personally I would leave the body work for last, do the brakes and suspension first, then motor/box/diff, then go with the pretty up.

[The Witzl]

my 18RGTE build is stalled for a few more weeks now, as im flying out of the country tomorrow for work, not to return until late Oct. So there is nill progress for me, other than a motor sitting next to my KE70.

With daylight savings having started tho, i should finally be able to get enough daylight hours to get some work done..... such as bolting in the freshly modified volvo diff.

[Gumwah]

I've got plenty of time to get it done, i want it complete by summer next year but sooner would be great. Therefore i have plenty of time to decide what im going to do and do it.
why will the efi need custom fitment? its efi already...

[river]

Hi,

Oman might be referring to you in case you had a carbie 18R-G and therefore you'd need to get the EFI inlet and manifold, plus fuel pumps etc set up.

If you already are running an 18R-GUE in your car then I would assume it is already set up. If the engine is EFI and not in your car, and your car runs a carby engine, then you'll need to set up the fuel pumps, surge tanks etc on the vehicle.

You can use the stock 18R-GUE EFI manifold without any problems. It is good for some high power and more than adequate for your needs.

seeyuzz
river

[o_man_ra23]

Gumwah, what is currently in your car in the way of:
1) Fuel pumps (LP and HP)
2) Fuel line
3) Fuel pressure regulator
4) Oil Catch Can
5) Air Filter
6) Surge Tank
7) Charcoal Canister
8) Fuel filters (LP and HP)

If any of these aren't going to cut it for a turbo engine (remembering you suddenly have far greater fuelling requirements and much different spacial requirements due to the intake plumbing) then you will need to do some fabricating to make sure they fit. This is something best done BEFORE body work, because scratching new paint isn't going to make you a happy camper.

River is correct though, the stock 18R-GUE EFI manifold and fuel rail are quite sufficient for a turbo engine.

[Gumwah]

well its a completely standard 79 rt132 2000gt.
so i assume LP fuel pump, lines.
unsure of regulator,
pretty sure no oil catch can
standard intake
charcoal canister? fuel filter charcoal canister maybe...

[o_man_ra23]

Charcoal canister will be in the engine bay somewhere, it is a big round thing has a 3/16 line going from the tank to it, then a vacuum line going to the intake, and an open hose purging into your subframe rail. This will probably be located right where you want to put your air filter for a turbo 18R-G.

If you have stock fuel lines they are probably 1/4 inch. This will be too small for a turbo application, and if you want to start pushing up the boost, you should go with 3/8 line. Fuel pressure regulator is on the fuel rail with the stock EFI setup, but this regulator is likely buggered by now and should be replaced with a new item that is designed to work with boost. This new item will probably need to be mounted on the inside of your front inner guard driver's side somewhere.

Oil catch can - well running one is optional, but I wouldn't like to send a watery oil mix into my turbo's intake. If you are running the carby LP pump, it is probably on the side of the block and you will need a lift type pump before your surge tank/HP pump.

[MnToyGuy]

Well I have a new machine shop vying for our business. The guy delivered the first batch of parts yesterday and was staring at the oil pump drum and rotor on my desk. The quick version is; he's a racer, has a degree in Automotive engineering, has wire EDM, is proficient at CAD, and wants my business. He took the pump and is going to create drawings, develop tolerances, etc. So I will be getting a prototoype in the near future and he thinks he can hit $150US for the two parts and the spacer for 10 mm longer pump than 18RC at 25 sets.

Talk about the stars aligning.

[timbosaurus]

noice work! The way the dollar's going.... that'll cost us about 30 bucks