i do heart 240z if i had one id have to keep the L24 and tripple carbs. a car like that is just too classy for a tractor donk
Information is POWER... learn the facts!!
i do heart 240z if i had one id have to keep the L24 and tripple carbs. a car like that is just too classy for a tractor donk
Don't hack up that fine example of an ae71 you have... Buy another car and do it to that if you are keen on the 2jz. Or better yet, buy a chasis which will accept the 2jz without any mods other than a cross member swap.
I'm in the same boat as you, done a truck load of 4a swaps and want to do something a little bigger / faster and better. After seeing an is200 with a 2jz at the track day (awesome sleeper / car overall btw) that got me thinking along the same lines as you, but i'll be getting something that bolts straight in.
Other thing is if you're going to do the welding on the tunnel / mounts etc. how experienced are you at structural welding. Those mods are a hell of allot different to slapping together an exhaust or intercooler pipes.
I'm not trying to discourage you, but ppersonally I think you should go for something a little less ambitious. I'd hate to see it up for grabs as an unfinished project in a couple of years time.
Either way good luck with it.
When did run of the mill granny cars become collector's items?Surely you can only improve on the value/appeal of the car
I'd agree that there are easier/smarter swaps for the JZ series motors, but hey, if you're ambitious and its really what you want, then go for it! (within your own limitations of course as BLK20v mentioned, you should't go modifying structural components if you are not proficient in fabrication)
Cheers
Phil
AE71 Corolla 2 door window van - retired / JZA70 Supra - VVTi converted - sold
The fact that you have been involved in the "metal industry" will be of great help. The main costs associated with this type of swap are firewall mods, engine mounts, intercooler piping & mods, radiator & mods, exhaust system, tunnel modifications, gearbox mount, manifolding, and general fabrication work.
If you were "joe average" I'd say to budget $12k for a swap like this. If you can DIY you will probably be able to do it for the cost of the core parts + $2k for miscellaneous stuff + your time & skills.
Personally I think a CA18DET or SR20DET would be a far far far far better option. they're proven, and already come RWD with the box attached. In fact for the price of an R154 setup, you could pretymuch have a CA18DET/SR20DET complete with gearbox.
I have a CA18DET in my car and it's brilliant. I have a very very lazy 250rwhp and could go 350-400rwhp really just by selecting a bigger turbo & injectors. My car would be heavier than yours, if not then certainly around the same weight. With a 1.8 or 2.0lt engine you'll have plenty of go. An SR20DET with basic upgrades is good for 300rwhp and honestly that's a shyteload for a small RWD car... and as a bonus it'll still handle and you'll be able to register it if you want.
Must.... avoid.... urge... to... upgrade... parts I haven't.... used.... yet.....
Lol grannies are car enthusiasts too....
But my point I guess i was making, if you are going to that effort , start with one in not so good condition as replacing panels / rust will be a walk in the park compared to this.
fiberglass ftw..
cheers to all the reply's
i will do an update when i get home tonight just to say where im up to on this idea/project. Im a bit strapped for time on the puter thismorn.
cheers,
Casey
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