1jz knock JZZ30 Soarer, help please!

[Bustin_86]

Hi all,

Have just bought my first big power toyota after owning many many corollas, a jzz30 soarer 5 speed manual all factory 70,000 kays. Its absolutely immaculate in all aspects (except for the below problems haha!)

Now i have owned it for about a month but have noticed that it had a irregular knock on idle when its hot. I have taken it to my mechanic and got him to have a look when it was getting serviced and he seems to think it is a gudgeon pin, apprently 1jz's use a floating gudgeon pin and the noise is nothing unusual and there is no need to worry. I just wanted to see if any other toymodders had experienced something similar? as soon as the car is revved the noise disappears completely. Obviously the only cure is to completely rebuild the engine which i am prepared to do (have a spare one jay sitting in the garage).

Also, the car runs very rough when you first start it up after it has been sitting for a few hours. I mean rough as in sounds like it is running without oil for the first 2-3 seconds. I understand that most cars run rough for a second until they get oil flow/pressure but was wondering if anyone has had similar problems due to stuffed oil pumps/oil squirters.

To most people these issues wouldnt bother them however i am extremely anal when it comes to my cars and would really like the soarer's engine condition to match the rest of it before i start modifying.

I have no problems putting a new engine in it but would hate to do so if there was a common solution that others had used! If it needs a new motor i will do a minor rebuild on my spare motor with race bearings etc.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Justin

[Bustin_86]

Nobody had a similar problem or has some advice?

[Shifty]

I don't know your car but honestly if it has a knock in it, and it sounds like it has no oil.... maybe it has no oil?

More seriously, perhaps it has been run low on oil or poorly serviced.

[neal]

What sort of knocking sound is it? e.g Metal knock, or something like a alternator bearing failure.

Have you been able to pin point which area of the engine the noise is comming from. As in listen to it with a long screw driver/ extension socket. Obviously Keep things away from hitting the fan.

All this little things will aide people trying to help you.

Also how did your mechanic find out that it was the gudgeon pin? The fact that he said that you will be fine is worrying at least in my opion. You do realise if the gudgeon pin lets go chances are you will be putting a rod out the side and maybe stab your neighbour, but i could be a predandict son of a b**** sometimes. You won't have to listen to a word i say but this is only just my opinion.

[Pimpin_1JZ]

It is pretty normal for 1JZ's to have a bit of knock at first startup while the oil flows up. Your other problem can be either a big end bearing or a gudgeon pin, they do sound similar and can be hard to pinpoint sometimes. But someone with mechanical knowledge should be able to pick it out.

[Bustin_86]

Hi guys,

Thanks a lot for your help/advice, i really appreciate it.

Mechanic has taken off all the timing covers and listened to the knock and pinpointed it to be at the front of the motor about half way up and he believes it is a gudgeon pin. My mechanic said he doesnt beleive it is a big issue as the 1j uses a floating gudgeon pin and some play/noise may be normal, obviously excessive noise would be worrying. I meticulously check all fluids and the car is never low on any fluid.

My way of thinking is that it is possible that the oil pump may be having some issues, may just be a dirty filter or the oil pump may be close to failing. Has anyone on here had troubles with the oil pumps in these motors?

Shifty, you could be correct about lack of previous servicing. Previous owner was a mechanic and said he had serviced it religiously but he may of not been completely honest. Car was also imported from japan so owner before the last may not have been very good with the car.

Once again really appreciate it guys, i will look into the oil pump but if anyone has any feedback it would be nice to hear what you have to say. If the egnine throws a rod ill just rebuild my spare. Thanks again people

Cheers,

Justin

[allencr]

Also, the car runs very rough when you first start it up after it has been sitting for a few hours. I mean rough as in sounds like it is running without oil for the first 2-3 seconds. I understand that most cars run rough for a second until they get oil flow/pressure but was wondering if anyone has had similar problems due to stuffed oil pumps/oil squirters.

Do you mean rough, like shaking & irregular sound from the exhaust, or noise like a hammer hitting a railroad track?
No engine runs rough when starting because of oil pressure, except those with Very Well Drained/bad hydraulic lifters and those with hydraulic timing chain tensioners & old sloppy chains & guides. Ignition & fuel are the influence for a smooth start, with the only bad sound farting out the exhaust and bearings on their way out work much quieter when there is pressure but have no effect on combustion.

[Bustin_86]

I mean rough as in it sounds like it is running without oil, ie harsh metal on metal noise from motor. The car runs perfectly in way of response and power. Sorry if im not the best at describing my problem!

[Dieseltrain]

Could be bearing knock when cold. My mates 1JZ did it for a while, then packed it in 1 day when it had enough ...

[Shakotan_Aaron]

justin, id be tempted to replace the oil pump.

2-3 seconds is probaly longer then it should to pick up oil pressure on start-up. if its worn it could also be not flowing enough at idle.

if you do replace it make sure its a genuine toyota oil pump. they are the best quality. (4ag N2 cars always run a standard toyota pump remember).

2-300 for a new pump is a lot cheaper then another motor/rebuild. at 70,000km's it shouldnt be worn out but you really dont know how it was driven by previous owners.

nice choice of bus BTW jzz30's are total pimp spec

["Z" UTE]

Try using a thicker engine oil, it may just be that the clearances are a little large. a mor viscous oil will cling to the surfaces longer.


It may be a genuine low 'K" car, but a manual would probably have copped more of a thrashing, than an auto.


cheers Chuck.

[chris davey]

If you want to check big and little ends. Pull the plugs out, wind each cylinder around to TDC and get a bit of wood and place it on top and just give it a little tap on the tap and see if you can feel any movement.

[lexsmaz]

Try disconnecting the coil packs one at a time & if its a little end issue etc, the noise will go when you cut the power / coil pack to the offending cylinder, obviously reconnect the coil pack if it doesnt change the noise & work your way through them so at all times its running on at least 5 cylinders ..

[skin]

drive it hard justin and i might go away lol, ive heard the problem on his car and its very hard to hear, i personally dont think its much to be worried about, but what do i know ive blown up 5 engines lol

[Bustin_86]

Thanks heaps guys cant appreciate all your help enough.

Will try disconnecting coil packs and see what happens, will let you all know how it goes.

Yeah i know it seems very minor Joash, you know how anal i am about my cars though hahaha!