4AGE Extended sump designs - 5 quarts of oil are better than 4......

[oldeskewltoy]

Extra sump oil pans are not new... here is one that sells for over $200 in Japan, and this one also requires a collector/enclosed sump ring be fitted, at extra cost




A few months back I was asking for old oil pans from folks(USA forums) because I had a few ideas.....













Each side/wedge of the Winged Wonder pan holds 2 cups of oil, 4 cups = 1 quart. Each side is heavily sloped so that oil will always feed the center sump. This design is an overly simple way of minimizing the oil loss from evacuating the center sump during cornering.

5 vertical slices(about 3mm wide x 65~mm tall) were added to each side of the main sump.


This is the 1st prototype. A few issues have already been noted, for example the drainplug will be moved to one of the rear corners of the main sump, this will allow more complete drainage.

So..... opinions? Thoughts? Criticisms? Recommendations???

[toyboyracer]

Reminds me of the Flying Nuns hat

I LIKE IT !

+ rep for you

[omp]

I think it looks pretty damned good!

When I first saw the drain plug I thought it should be moved but you have stated that anyway.

How will it fit in the car as the side wedges are sizeable? Refering to swaybars and the like.

Looking at it having a fitting on the top might be (I don't know) an ideal place for an oil return from the turbo?

How will you go tightening up the sump bolts, will there be enough room to swing your ratchet?

Overall it is such a great (and simple) idea I wonder why aftermarket manufacturers haven't done this?

[oldeskewltoy]

first off... to the mod/admin who fixed this and reposted it......


thank you.....................











Ok, I did some pre sizing before I made it. I "built" the wedges out of card stock , and taped them on to my engine. My engine is a non P/S, non A/C 4AGE in an AE71.



The taped on wedges cleared all barriers, and the shape actually allows for the splash shield(steel on an AE71) to be retained since the pan slant is so steep

[mattysshop]

sent a PM about this, then saw that it was reactivated in the thread!.. here we go again...

maybe a couple of basic trap doors?

the way i've done them planty of times is just a peice of flat sheet, welded in (just a few neat runs of Tig, doesn't have to seal it completely..) with some decent hole saw cut outs in them right down to the base.. it doesn't have to go right up to the top ofcourse.. now run a thin cut-off wheel though the top to make a window just wide enough to slide another peice through flat...

then fold 10mm down on another piece of sheet, and slip the large end into the gap so it opens inwards.. thus creating louvers.

very basic... but proven effective, when hard cornering, like this would be expected in a 4AGE.. the oil will push that side shut.. and open the other side..

granted your sump has a steep angle to go up first.. but G-force is a pretty powerful thing with liquids..

excuse the MS paint skillzzz!

[oldeskewltoy]

maybe a couple of basic trap doors?

I've seen the trap door types before... and they workfine... but they add time and $$ to it.

My point(belief) is the main sump remains basically the same, although now there are a 5 vertical cuts to allow the "extra" oil to drain into the main sump, yet since they are just a few mm wide they will only allow so much oil through while cornering.... and, working from the other side..., the G forces and the slope should fill the sump from the other wedge just as quickly......


besides... @ only 2 cups(1/2 qt) per side and having added a whole quart to the overall total, I don't see the central sump oil filling one wedge while completely emptying itself in the process

[mattysshop]

yeh those thin slices would at least act like an anti-surge baffle..

i'm of your opinion though.. more fresh oil moving around the better

[allencr]

No improvement from the first one except that the angle reduces capacity, the point of having a larger sump, but does assure that it'll run until it's almost out of oil,
That horizontal plate is what will keep it from climbing the sides, the angle does nothing while the extra capacity down there will keep the center flooded for pickup.
********
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On a similar note, a beautifully modified & finished thing that worked worse then stock.
The post ended abruptly & couldn't find anymore on http://www.v-eight.com/ I'd still really like to see what happened.
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=45476

[oldcorollas]

how high in the sump does the oil usually sit, while the engine is running.
you haev the majority fo the volume at the top of the wings, but will the oil sit that high, and really give you that much increased volume?

or will it make things worse by providing more volume for the oil to flow into during cornering?
if the wings are full of oil, then during cornering it will slide up the block..
if not, then the volume lost from one wing will not fill the larger volume of the other wing, and so you will be worse off?

[oldeskewltoy]

the oem horizontal plate welded to the inside.... It is still intact inside my pan

[toyboyracer]

How 'bout I send you 7 x 2-T pans and you send them back all fixed up

[oldcorollas]

so the oil will be full to the OEM plate while engine is running?

I supose you've already done an agnle test, to se how the oil level will change with differetn G loadings?

[oldeskewltoy]

so the oil will be full to the OEM plate while engine is running?

I supose you've already done an agnle test, to se how the oil level will change with differetn G loadings?

concerning your 1st question.... as I see it, the oil level when running should be pretty close, likely a few mm above the plate

hahahahahaha... angle test, I've done no testing of any kind yet...... but I'll look into angle testing

[TERRA Operative]

As an easy alternative to the hinged baffles, A solid panel with small holed drilled along the bottom will do a similar job. You just need to size the holes so they are the minimum size required to flow enough oil as required.

[ed]

i hate modified wetsumps now

i would offere a whole bunch of ideas, but none of mine worked effectivey, so i went dry sump.

but generally, no amount of 'wingage' and extra oil will help without GOOD baffling. oil is like water when its hot, so dont think its thick and will run slowly through holes. imho trap doors should seal shut. if you put them in, you gotta mean it.

search for my 1uz wetsump thread, it has a heap of pics of my ideas and failures