yeah good topic Draza,
I was told when I bought my box that VMX80 was good stuff, this was from Justin, the guy I bought the box from who uses it in his LSDs for racing.
I guess redline is fail safe.... and expensive
i was wanting to know which is the best oil to use in the MR2 turbo box with the LSD. It is a jap import box.
I heard that the LSD needs an addative put in with it. What is the addative and how much will i need.
'87 ST162 GT2 rip
'94 Vienta - 350,000km sent to wrecker
'00 Avalon - Rear ended by 4WD, kept going for 4 months. Written off.
'95 Mazda 626 - It was free...
'88 ST162 - the love lives on.
yeah good topic Draza,
I was told when I bought my box that VMX80 was good stuff, this was from Justin, the guy I bought the box from who uses it in his LSDs for racing.
I guess redline is fail safe.... and expensive
guys.... do a little reading on the oils used in torsen and clutch type LSDs as only one needs the special friction additive
as for what oil to use... well i've been using the Gulf Western "waterclear" 85W/90 i've been buying from Toobs for aaaages now. Used in in my diff(s), T50, W50, W58, E58 (lsd fwd), C56, and one or two other types of boxes....
comparing one car with an E58-11C using Castrol Syntrax (mega$$$) and another car with an idential E58-11C box using the Gulf Western, i actually found the gulf western to have a MUUUCH smoother shift, less resistive "notchiness" and just to be a little nicer.
I recommend the Gulf Western! It held that T50 in the AE71 together for a year!!!
EDIT: forgot to mention that this oil is 100% synthetic too![]()
Last edited by The Witzl; 28-11-2005 at 08:34 PM.
...... butt scratcher?!
pentrite limslip90 works great with these internals (is what i run in my E51), same viscosity as the redline stuff that a lot of people recomend for our internals.![]()
I hear Redline has a new shock proof oil.
Good reviews so far, even on older gearboxes.
Cheers
Steve
Redline actually have 2 different "shock proof" oils. From what I have seen through here its great stuff. Otherwise there are any number of high quality Synthetic oils available.
Redline do a shock proff Light and a Shockproof heavy dependingon the application and abuse level. I have the Heavy for my Celica diff while the 6 speed will be getting the shockproof light.
1971 2T-B Celica TA22 ST.
1973 2T-G Celica TA22, aka "The Unicorn".
1975 2T-G Celica TA27 GT
1976 2T-G Celica TA23, aka "The Colonel".
1985 3F Auto FJ62 Landcruiser
1989 7M-GTE MA70 Supra, aka "The Poopra"
History: Rods Classic Celica Sampler thread.
out of interest what are you paying for the redline oils people?
I;ve never priced the stuff since i've been getting the GW oils from Toobs.....
...... butt scratcher?!
The stock MR2 turbo LSD is a viscous LSD, this doesn't need an LSD additive.
I'm running redline lightweight shockproof in mine and it is awesome. It absolutely transformed the shift feel and speed of my particular gear box. I can't say enough good things about it.
Originally Posted by Joshstix
Where you get it from and wat did it set you back $$$
Cheers
Steve
I would also be one to support the Redline Shockproof Oil *** awesome stuff ***
And I'll third/fouth it...
1JZ MZ20 Soarer - 4AGZE KE70 Corolla - 4AGE AE86 - 4AGE KE70
just got some redline shockproof oil today.
I chose the heavy weight stuff over the light stuff cos of the power that is going through the box ( 300+ rwkw and a w57)
My question is that i see a lot of people have used the light weight oil and rave about it but has any one used the heavy stuff in a gearbox and how did it go ??
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
might pay to get a hot blanket and rap it on the gearbox or a sump heater to put on the gearbox during winter and run it up on stands in gear to warm it up over winter so you reduce the chance of breaking something. thick is good{look at me} but it needs to be at the right temp or you get bad wear.Originally Posted by 30psi 4agte
hey mick
yeah i had thought about the issues of a thick oil and how it will be when cold.
I have a lot of things but a oil / sump warmer isnt one . What i had planned was too take it easy for the first 10-15 min of driving till the oil warms up ??????????? what do you think
The reason i chose the thicker oil was that i kept doing bearings on my t50s and hence destroying gears. not cause of my driving style but just cause of the sheer torque going through it. ( esp on the dyno )
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
best way is to warm the drive train in gear up on stands etc. gives it a chance to thin with no load at all.
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