Dumb question: Disconnecting auto choke on 18R-c

[RA28GT]

Hey guys Ive just recently installed a set of extractors on my 18R-c as i had them lying around. Now only issue is that the existing auto choke is now way off because I'm guessing the sensor has something to do with the stock manifold?

Either way how can i either get it to function correctly? or failing that how can i disconnect it completely?

[river]

Hi,

Get a length of metal rod... aluminium.. about 5 to 8mm in diameter. Use those screw-in clips, attach the rod to one of the extractors, and bend the rod so it has about 2 or 3 lots of 300mm length attached (ie double or triple the rod back on itself a few times), and then put the end of the rod into where the auto-choke went (ie from the original manifold).

The whole point is to have enough alu rod on the extractors so it gets hot and that heat goes into where the old auto-choke was so it can go off-choke as the rod heats up.

It's hard to explain. I may have a pic of Trini's old 18R-C somewhere, when she had extractors and this was used to make the auto-choke run as per normal.

seeyuzz
river

[bholmberg]

i think river is right with that answer.
you could also consider getting rid of the choke all together.
i've ran an 18rc for years without a choke and never had any troubles starting. even mid winter without having driven the car for 2 weeks - always starts within a couple of tries.
when I had my stock carby rebuilt, the guy who rebuilt them said: before starting, push the throttle down full twice for 1 second each (getting fuel into the engine), then start without touching the throttle... technique works great for my 18rc.

[TRD-12A]

Same thing with my 2T the auto choke has been removed and it runs and starts beautifully every time do'nt even have to pump the excelerater at all just turn the key and bang.

river's idea for sure if you want to keep it

["Z" UTE]

The standard auto choke on an 18RC picks up air from the bottom of the air cleaner, via rubber hoses to the front of the rocker cover into a steel pipe, back into rubber hose then into a pipe that extends throught the exhaust header from front to back, passing through the gas stream in the headers. The pipe continues as flexible steel right into the auto choke. The hot air "softens" the spring and allows the choke to be off when the engine has reached operating temp. Biggest problem with this setup, is that the internal pipe in the headers crack, and you end up with exhaust gases being pumped into the auto choke housing, destroying the innards.

Simply attach a piece of steel brake line to the extractors front to rear, and plumb up as per the original.

If you have no welding skills, an electric choke is possibly the easiest option.

cheers Chuck.