So who's played with Haltechs?

[stradlater]

I think Cruzida said it in one of his signatures.

"Do it once, Do it right, or don't complain."

I didn't do it right the first time. and spent much of the following two years bitching and spending money on fixing it... Who's the idiot now...

[gearb0x]

while i have no experience with the expencive haltec VR box, the above 2 circuits only cost a few $ to build and have been proven reliable in plenty of conditions

Doing it "right" would involve giving the dizzy the ass completely though wouldnt it?

[stradlater]

Yeah, your probably right, getting rid of the dizzy would be the right way of doing it.

The Haltech Reluctor Adapter is a piece of shit... On that note, I have one for sale, anyone want it?

[tricky]

I don't know what signals the Haltech requires to run COP, but I'll take a guess that it'll need either a missing tooth crank wheel or a crank wheel AND a cam speed (read dizzy for 18RG) wheel.

For purposes of simplicity and reliability, I'd be starting with a missing tooth crank wheel. This gives you the flexibility to change to CoP later, but run single coil now. Also, this way you don't have to worry about locking the dizzy. While a VR conditioner and a carefully placed weld would give you an easy sensor from your 18RGEU/18Rw22RE pickup dizzy, this is a bit ghetto spec, and subject to variations. Think about it: It is essentially running off the timing chains, so there can be slack and stretch changing the position of the pulses by a couple of degrees, whereas the crank wheel is set and forget.

This is just my interpretation of the situation, and this is what I'll be doing in the near future, so I look forward to seeing your solution!

[Norbie]

I'd love to run a crank wheel but have no idea how to go about it. Is it possible to buy generic aftermarket ones or is this something you have to fab up yourself?

[gearb0x]

Not sure about aftermarket ones, but EF falcons have 36-1 tooth wheels on their crank pully Though i havent seen one so dont really have specs, ill prolly chase one up eventually though

[thechuckster]

as mentioned by gearb0x, i have one of these VR interfaces that talks to the stock toyota 22RE pickup. Works just fine at the moment as a locked dizzi that also distributes spark.

At the moment it triggers off the 4-tooth wheel that came with the dizzi and the mechanical advance bits have been removed and two small screws used to 'lock' the remaining bits together.

My 32 tooth wheel does fit behind the stock 18Rx crank pully but you've only got about 6mm between the alloy case and the back of the pulley. I just got that part of my wheel machined thinner and the back of the pulley skimed so they sat flush. If you see the red car, you can view the wheel in person.

My wheel was laser cut from steel - but you might be able to either source one from a falcon or import something from europe or US via one of the megasquirt resellers on msefi.

A pickup could come from an importer as well, but a scout around the wreckers should source some easily pocketable VR pickups. At a pinch, ABS sensors could do as well.

If you got ghetto, you could probably machine down a front hub that has an ABS trigger wheel cast in. They seem to have quite a few teeth.

[Norbie]

Thanks for the info guys, very helpful. Charles, I'll have to come over and check out your setup some time.

I can't believe how much difficulty I'm having buying a Haltech. Since Tuesday I've been waving money in the faces of several retailers, telling them I'm ready to pay cash NOW, and I still haven't been able to place an order. WTF??

[tricky]

A hell of a lot of Falcons came with 36-1 wheels and VR sensors, but I haven't got around to finding out the diameter, thickness or even if they a seperable from the crank pulley. I'm gonna scout some wreckers next week to try and find something of a useful size, and if I find something promising, I'll post here or PM you...

That's retarded about the suppliers not wanting to take your money... They need to take a step back and observe the ethics of most dodgy small businesses, ie take a deposit first, promise product and then deliver in a few weeks if they can be bothered ordering it!

[stradlater]

Norbie: Call Haltech Direct.. I had hells own job getting one purchased. And even then they ordered the wrong bits.. Haltech might cost you a bit more direct though. The small retailer I bought it from was a pretty good deal. But a hell of a wanker.

[chris davey]

Thanks for the info guys, very helpful. Charles, I'll have to come over and check out your setup some time.

I can't believe how much difficulty I'm having buying a Haltech. Since Tuesday I've been waving money in the faces of several retailers, telling them I'm ready to pay cash NOW, and I still haven't been able to place an order. WTF??

Don’t even go there! Ordered ecu nearly 2 months ago. Still not here Not haltech though.

[gearb0x]

I'm gonna scout some wreckers next week to try and find something of a useful size, and if I find something promising, I'll post here or PM you...

Id be interested in your findings too My 2TG needs some EFI loving

[3t-RA40]

Norbie, talk to this guy Scott Hilzinger 02 97290999 Haltech Sales/Tech Support Email - [email protected] or www.haltech.com. He's the guy that I spoke with in the past few weeks, I purchased directly from them and also haselled the shit out of with question when I was installing. I using an E6X, wastedspark, Haltech dual post coils, Haltech dual channel igniters, seqenual injection, midified dizzy gutted with S3 hall sensor and Haltech rare earth magnets, Haltech coolant sensor and air temp sensor.
Just a note if the 18rg TPS is like my 3tg, just a switch, than you'll need a TPS that reads 0 - 100%. I'm also running a Haltech TPS.
Everything I purchased was brand new from Haltech, and all the injectors plugs etc were new. Do it right first time. The difference in price between keeping the dizzy and going direct fire/wasted spark was about $300 dollars. I know that's alot of money but when I was spending just over $2K and $300 was letting me do it the way I wanted it done it was an easy decision.
Cheers,
Neil.

[takai]

Yeah, i got heavily screwed by a Haltech dealer who i ordered a replacement air temp sensor off. I still havnt recieved it almost 9 months on.
Remember though, that most of the sensors are off the VN V6 Commys, so i just got an airtemp off one of those and it was exactly the same. Even down to the sealing stuff on the threads.

[The Witzl]

i'm going to back tricky up here and say that spending p00loads of time + effort gutting and retrofitting the dissy with hall-effect triggers is in the end going to net you a less than favourable result.

Let us not forget Teh Massif Dong's "CAS-flex" (much akin to dissy flex) - the signals from the CAS would actually vary around 400-600rpm from the actual engine rpm, causing the Autronic to get rather angry and think the engine was misfiring and generally just behaving badly.
Solution: fit crank trigger disc.
Problem SOLVED.

I'll be following the crank trigger disc path.


As for the purchasing of a Haltech..... well i would put the idea straight into the "ROOT THAT" basket, and either buy the cheap-as-a-penriff-whore Microleb LT10s or get the real deal (read: Autronic SM4)