So who's played with Haltechs?

[Norbie]

I'm sick of playing silly buggers with the stone-age EFI on my 18R-GEU, so I've decided to bite the bullet and purchase a new Haltech E6X. This is all a bit new to me, I've played with a lot of OEM engine management systems but this will be my first time with aftermarket management. If anyone has any experience with setting up Haltechs, and ideally the E6X, I'd love to hear from you!

My biggest concern at the moment is how to set up the ignition side of things. I plan to go multiple coils in the future, but for now I want to keep the standard electronic dizzy and single coil but with timing controlled by the E6X. That's all good and well in theory but I've got no idea how to make it happen. Help!

[Ben Wilson]

Auuming the 18RG electronic dizzy is a fully locked jigger with a reluctor, it's fairly simple. The only tricky bit is getting the reluctor polarity right. Get an analog multimeter, put it on its lowest voltage setting across the reluctor outputs then turn in slowly in the direction of normal rotation. If the needle moves up, then down the polarity is right. Otherwise you'll need to reverse the wires.

That section of the manual isn't too bad IIRC.

[takai]

Ben has just described exactly how we did it on my 4AG. However, we had a CRO to check the pulses at certain rpm. EIther way is extremely easy to do, and will result in the correct wiring.
Personally i found that portion of the manual slightly obtuse as well, but not overly bad. Certainly a whole lot better than trying to get the guys at Microtech to explain it to you.

[Ben Wilson]

Have they fixed the section on the ignitor wiring yet? I remember that bit sucking mightily in the E6K manual...

[takai]

Not particularly, still reasonably obscure. Makes references to bits which are nolonger in the software too. And part of the wiring diagram is wrong there, as the aux output for the tacho pulses on home only, not on all 4.

Mine sucks more than normal though, since its covered in both coffee and grease.

[gearb0x]

Just hazarding a guess that the 18RG would be similar to the 2TG one, if so itll have a 4 tooth wheel with mech and vac advance. You should be able to setup with the haltech for just single dizzy operation assuming haltech can accept VR signals. If you lock the dizzy you will have full control of advance, but will be stuck with the dizzy.

As for wasted/COP im afraid you will have to look else where for a trigger. There are a million ways to do this but im not sure what signal the haltec looks for. You may be able to adapt later model internals into the dizzy as well.

[The Witzl]

there are options such as using the mitsubishi or nissan optical or hall effect trigger dissy internals.... but then you still have the dissy, and you still have to lock the advance plate.

Im toying up with these ideas myself, and im either going to have to modify the poo out of the dissy, or just bite the bullet and get a crank trigger disc setup. I think the crank trigger is the better of these options.

I'll be having a closer look at what Yellorolla and blacksupra have for their crank trigger setups, but the basic jist of it is that you're going to eventually need a trigger disc of this sort if you want to run wasted spark or coil-per-plug.

Most trigger discs use a hall effect sensor or variable reluctance sensor, which just about any decent ECU can recognise as a valid signal (so long as you have set it up correctly). Wolf3D is the only one i know of that has problems with Toyota VR sensors....


Have a look at what chuck did with his 18RTE

[gearb0x]

Since im bored i downloaded the E6X manual and had a browse seems the E6X supports missing tooth wheels, from what ive read theses are the easiest way get a good home signal. see thechucksters members ride thread for a picture of the setup. Basically you just get a 36 tooth wheel made up, remove 1 tooth. The ECU uses the missing tooth as a home signal. Bolt/weld to the crank pulley and use a hall effect gear tooth sensor (can probably steal the wheel and sensor off EF falcons or u can buy new sensors for around 50$).

Or theres the option of Mounting magnets in the crank pulley, i havent looked into that very much.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Ahh, the battle of the turbo 18RG's ensues.

[The Witzl]

Ahh, the battle of the turbo 18RG's ensues.

there arent any turbos yet nathan!!

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Didn't say there is, but at least one of them will finally get the brain that can handle one

[stradlater]

I had hells own job getting the Haltech to listen to the dizzy outputs on my 1g.

But, that said, I've had years (and I mean quite literally years) of experience friggin around with it.

If you've got any questions with respect to it, fire away. But, what I'd suggest is get the dizzy modified to have a hall effect switch in it, a 4 tooth one and then the haltech will love it and everyone will be happy...

Be careful with the VR outputs of the toyota dizzy's. I've found that Haltech DO NOT like it, and it produces a lot of interference. I'd suggest turning it into hall effect one way or another. I wouldn't bother going to a crank trigger setup, just get a hall effect trigger in the dizzy, and then if you really want you could CAP off the top fo the dizzy and run yourself four coils...

[gearb0x]

but with a 4 tooth in the dizzy where is your home signal comming from?

If you choose to go the hall effect way, there is a really cheap/simple way. Jaycar sell the hall effect gate sensors things for ~20$. (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...Max=&SUBCATID=) . For a shutter wheel, i found this really simply idea on silicon chip where they use the base of a potentiometer. They gut it and cut equal length gaps in it, drilled a hole in the guts of it and glued it to the bottom of the rotor, obviously you dont need the rotor if you can work out away to mount it to the dizzy shaft. Pics courtesy of silicon chip

[stradlater]

If it's a 4 tooth dizzy using a single coil and a normal distributor cap, you don't need a home signal my friend. :-)

[gearb0x]

Thats what i thought i meant to have COP, if you are sticking with the stock dizzy i wouldnt bother with going to hall effect, while hall effect has a much cleaner signal there are several good ways of shaping the VR signal

If the haltec gear doesnt like the VR signalt there are a few simple/cheap to build circuits to shape the VR signal to a square wave signal which you may have more luck with than the Haltec VR shaping.

Plenty of people are using the following circuit with the megasquirt to shape VR signals, i belive chucks using it with 22re dizzy internals:


Then theres the circuit thats built into the latest version of the megasquirt. Ill be building this one soon to see if i can get a clean signal off my 4AGZE dizzy.
(http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/v3pcb_3.gif)

If you havent noticed ive been doing lots of research lately