Camry - Flashing O/D Off

[Razor]

Hi

My daily started flashing the o/d off and the car was extremely slow, so got the codes and its 62 for the transmission

and I also got 22 for the engine light which I think is the engine coolant temperature signal/sensor that controls the hydraulic fan

Anyone knows the codes for the tranny?

its a 1993 Camry 3VZFE auto

[Z2TT]

I have had the exact same problem with my Soarer, and have been through it all step by step and fixed it.
95% Chance it is a Malfunctioning solenoid because of either a bad contact or faulty Solenoid itself, causing the gearbox to be stuck in 3rd gear when you take off.

Grab yourself a Workshop manual from the library and find out the description for that code and post back. But I'll tell you 62 is a problem relating to Solenoid 1.

First we need to figure out if there is continuity between the ECU Connector and the solenoid plug itself, for this we follow this procedure I made.


1. Remove required trims or parts to access the engine ECU or ECT Control unit (whichever one controls the Auto transmission on the Camry)

2. Find a Pinout diagram and use it to find the wire from the Plug from the ECT Unit / ECU that is for Solenoid No1, but also find the pins for other solenoids to test them anyway.

3. Check the resistance of the solenoids by pricking the pin on the connector with the positive lead of the multimeter and using a ground source for the negative lead. Resistance should be about 11-15 Ohms.

11-15 Ohms Resistance ----> Solenoid should be good and there is continuity in the wires, Try another ECU
Resistance not specified value -----> Could be faulty solenoid Goto Step 4
Infinite Resistance ------> Could be incomplete circuit, Goto Step 4

4. Drain transmission fluid

5. Remove Transmission sump, wipe off Excess fluid and place container underneath to catch excess fluid.

6. Unplug the connector in the transmission going to Solenoid 1 (But you can do the same with all of them too), attach a long wire to that plug and run it inside the car where your ECT Connector is.

7. Use a multimeter to test continuity between the pin on the harness, and the other end at the transmission, in which you used a long wire to extend it to
the interior of the car as described in step 5.

No Continuity ----> Check harness connections, aswell as connections along the firewall for any severed wires.
Continuity but high resistance ---- > Check harness connections again for bad contact or corroded contacts/pins, Goto Step 9.
Continuity -------> Goto Step 7


8. It has now been established that there is continuity between the harness connector and the plug that goes to the solenoid in question. Now we must check the solenoid itself.
Remove solenoid(s), Apply 12v to the solenoid and listen for operation noise, using the mounting flange as the ground point.

Operation noise ----> Working solenoid --- Goto Step 12.
No Noise ----> Faulty Solenoid or bad Contact.

9. Try Scrape some of the black coating off the mounting flange off the solenoid, usually this causes a bad ground, then test solenoid again.

10. Have a look at the solder joint that is visible on the outside of the solenoid, some designs may differ where the solder joint is not visible. Cost cutting measures such as poor quality control in the factory means you may have a bad solder joint. Try add some solder then re-test solenoid for operation, and test it for resistance using multimeter.

11. Try another solenoid.

12. Try Another ECU/ECT Control Unit.

[Razor]

I just found out the error code and its the #1 solenoid

I will try and follow your instructions and download a FSM

So the solenoid is inside behind the sump?

Thank you very much!!!

Cheers

[Z2TT]

The solenoids on most if not all Auto boxes are mounted on the valve body, which is visible once the sump is removed.

[Razor]

do I need to take the valve body off the tranny to get to the solenoids? how can I differentiate which is the solenoid #1 from #2?

[wilbo666]

The first thing to do would be to check the resistance of the solenoid...and you don't need to drain fluid or take the sump off the auto for this!


The ECU supplies +12V to the solenoid to turn it On/Off and the other end of the solenoid is grounded at the Valve body. See page 17 in the below link.

You can test the resistance of the solenoid (and the wiring & plugs to the solenoid!) using a multimeter and unplugging the ECU plug (You'll need to look up which pin it is on a wiring diagram).

You should measure the resistance between the pin going to the No.1 solenoid and Ground. From memory the resistance is around 10 Ohms, but would be wise to find out exactly what it is meant to be.



If that tests OK then the next thing to check is if the ECU is putting out voltage to the solenoind. This can be done by plugging the ECU back in and then checking to see if there is +12V on the pin going to the solenoid when the car is stopped in D, 2 or L. See page 21.

Links
http://www.autoshop101.com/autoshop15.html

AT10 Electrical Control.pdf 308KB

Cheers
Wilbo

[Razor]

Im getting Code 22 from my ECU diagnostics
and thats Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, thats the one that controls the hydraulic fan as well.
and from that document you provided its part of the O/D system
I was wanting to replace this sensor as my fan doesnt kick in when engine getting hot (traffic)
But it only states there that it controls the shifting from 3 to 4th gear..... so Im confuse

You think this could be causing this O/D issue?

I can still drive the car by shifting it manually from L - 2 - D and drives fine. otherwise if I leave it on Drive its like starting to move from 3rd gear

[wilbo666]

You think this could be causing this O/D issue?

No


Fix the code 22, but the O/D light code is a separate problem.




The water temp sensor effects the auto as follows - Much different to your problem

Water Temperature: The water temperature sensor monitors the temperature of the engine
Sensor coolant and is connected to the engine ECU. The engine ECU grounds
the circuit through the ECT terminal. It prevents the transmission
from shifting into overdrive until the engine coolant is greater than
122°F. This threshold temperature may vary depending on the vehicle
model. While the engine temperature is below the threshold
temperature, the lock−up solenoid circuit will be open, preventing
movement of the 3−4 shift valve.

Cheers
Wilbo

[Razor]

OK then cool

I'll look up the pin diagram for the ecu

[Z2TT]

Yes, checking resistance should be the first step actually, then you can rip the sump out to test continuity, remove solenoids etc.
Should be 11-15 ohms if I remember correctly.

I edited my steps in my earlier post.

[Razor]

today I noticed my speedo is out as well!!!
from 60kph and up is like 10kph lower than what it reads
ie travelling 80 its really 70kph

[Z2TT]

Maybe different diff ratio than stock or different wheels than stock.

[Razor]

nah was working perfect for years now then all this O/D issue, coolant sensor now the speedo

[Cuzzo]

Take it to a mechanic?

[Z2TT]

Follow my steps, they are bound to help.