yeah, I know it MIGHT remedy itself at high speed, but any rubbing on a slick will destroy it pretty quickly.
another thing that could be affecting it is the bulge of the sidewall from having a low pressure and thick sidewall. This will remedy itself with tyre velocity (burnout, launch, running), but will be a problem at low speed.
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
yeah, I know it MIGHT remedy itself at high speed, but any rubbing on a slick will destroy it pretty quickly.
its going to get taller.. its going to be worse at high speed..
Get one of those small gas bottle torch things from a hardware store, use it to heat the metal up then bash at it. you wont have to hit as hard and it'll soften the metal up. Just dont heat it for too long or you'll end up warping stuff.
don't do that.
It's a hell of a lot easier stretching metal by heating it a little, cant see how its a bad idea.
Originally Posted by stradlater
sound like you have front wheel drive rims.
if you change the rims and have the front of the finder rolled with a bat. you shouldn't
have a problem.
I have a friend who car has the same size slick as you and it's lowered and it doesn't rub.
naked flame and flamable protective coatings means that the protective coatings will be destroyed, even if they dont fall off, and you will get corrosion in a big bad way... and you will burn the shit outta the paint in the inside of the car... so yeah, BAD idea. heatgun is a better ideaOriginally Posted by RPM016T
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
Originally Posted by RPM016T
You of course realise that to even change the yield strength (the point at which the steel permanently deforms) you need about 400deg... and to make it really noticeably easier to shape/stretch you would need a nice glow on it... of course all keeping it even etc.. and then having to deal with the shrinkage etc.. its not worth trying..
Fair call. Cant say I was familiar with the whole yield strength thing. I just used this method last weekend. It seemed to make it a hell of a lot easier to shape the metal though as it was only about 1.2mm thick or so it didnt take much to heat it. And as for the flammamble coatings, I didnt take this into account. Probably not the best idea to use a naked flame if theres stuff that can catch on fire in the vicinity.
Yeah. Be careful with the X-ply tyres and rubbing boys. The X-plys are great for traction due to the ability of th casing to deform under load, but they are also pretty weak in terms of resistance to puncture/explosion etc.Originally Posted by stradlater
[email protected], WSID, COMPAK ATTAK, MAY 2006
maybe try some heightened springs, as to jack the ass of the car up, that way it'll be further away from the tyre,
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
The boobs are back
heat it up with an oxy torch and bash it with a hammer. thats how i got my r154 to fit into my ma61 tunnel.
its either that or cutting n shutting to make the hole larger.
you wont have a shit show in hell denting it with a mallet or a hammer without heat.
hmmmmm, oxy and LPG tanks dont go well together
JZX83+ FMIC+ Twin 2.5" dumps to 3"+ FCD+ 2800rpm stallie+ 14psi - LSD - good tyres = 12.85 @105.58
The boobs are back
Originally Posted by Mr DOHC
simple - empty/ take out the tank whilst playing with oxy. unless u r VERY close to the bottle it isnt going to create a hassle anyway...
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