1jz Starter motor cleaning

[barned01]

I have just pulled apart my starter motor to give it a clean (I am hoping this is the reason why the car didn't start)
but to better educate myself, I thought I might ask what I am looking at and what the parts should look like with some tlc.
first up

What is this part and how should it look?
What should i use to clean it with (kero, petrol, carbie cleaner?)?


this part is filthy black and cruddy, should any of that black stuff be there at all or should it be super clean?
What is this part called?
And again, what should be used to clean it?
I assume i can separate it from the housing also?


again, am i supposed to assume that i should be cleaning this up?

[toymaz]

no1 armature
no2 fields/ brushes on top
no3 top housing with bush for armature
can clean with kero rinse after with water and air blow dry.
no3 bush must be oiled.
when it didn't work, did it just click??? if so very common . contacts under the sort of trangle shape lid with3 screws.

[barned01]

nah it didn't even click.
Car had power through accessories but when cranking with the key, nothing. I could hear fuel pump and other things going but just nothing on the crank.
I pulled it out and it worked on the bench so was going to put it back in, but i thought i should clean it all up first just in case removing it knocked it around enough to get it working again.
I shall kero clean it all

[wilbo666]

It can all be cleaned to start with Can clean with almost anything, degreaser works well I've found.

You'll want to remember to grease the planetary gbox and the bush for the end of the armature before reassembly

You can follow this from the TSRM to check it, procedure is the same, and in fact 7m is interchangeable with xJZ...
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...Section=ST&P=3

I'd clean the armature where the brushes run (you can see it's worn down, on the right in your pic 1). A green scourer or 800grit sandpaper should work to make it shiny again


I'd replace the brushes. I suspect when you measure them you'll find them pretty worn... and should be cheap from a place like Ashdown.



Cheers
Wilbo

[Demon]

Have you got a auto box on your 1j ? I had the problem where the selector on the box was not making contact for the neutral start switch. It was totaly dead so I rang thru the wires and they were still good, then I took off the selector on the box, stripped, cleaned, back and bang there it was. You might wana also just check you 7.5 STA fuse aswell

[toymaz]

If you have to change the brushes, you might be better to get an Auto Elec to replace them for you.
Or you will need a good soldering iron [ ie a decent size one].

[barned01]

auto soarer
cleaned it up, and chucked it back in to see if the car worked and it did so i am happy.
but as wilbo has pointed out, the brushes are undersized so i will take it out again next weekend and swap over for new brushes.

and yes my soldering iron is somewhat lacklustre

[allencr]

Where'd all that grease come from? It shouldn't have been there, the end plate is too dry so they probably 'missed' durring assembly. Also, I'm surprised that there's a sleeve bearing, not ball, on that end.
The brushes & holder should be clean & dry, no oil that'll attract & hold dirt.

The segmented copper thing that the brushes run against is the commutator, same thing in generators has been replaced by the slip rings in an alternator.
Yours doesn't need to be turned down in a lathe, looks really nice but for all the smegma.
I use emery to smooth them, used/worn some so there's not much coming off of it, but every electric place & manual will say 'NO EMERY CLOTH, only glass paper' because its bits get embedded into the copper & don't conduct well.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commutator_(electric)