Just lighten the flywheel...![]()
Hey guys got a few questions about getting the best response from my car..
I plan on using the CT26 turbo on my 165 as its ceramic so spools faster and dont plan to use more than 1bar..
Anyway im going FMIC just wondering, would a smaller core eg stock ones on the xr6 turbos etc etc be better than a huge core in terms of response?? my thoughts are the air has less area to fill which leads to air entering quicker...
also in regards to IC piping. would 2inch be better than say 2.5 inch for response for the same reason as having less area to fill??
stock cams adjusted or aftermarket bigger cams??
budget build so no piggyback or standalone tune money..
as much detail and explaination as possible. love learning this stuff!!
cheers
90' GT-Four ST185 RC motor ST205 gearbox!
New installs Ct20B and Rear Strut Brace!!
Next to come;
3SGE cams, Fidanza Adj Cams, WolfKatz fuel rail!!
Just lighten the flywheel...![]()
what's "response"? have you been watching initial D?
there are plenty of turbos out there that will give better power and boost faster than a T26
keep the cooler piping the same size as the turbo outlet to the cooler, and same size as the TB to the TB, keep it short and with as few bends as possible.
lighten the flywheel
reduce the weight of your car
buy light wheels
GT28R
twindrop, tapered dump pipe
steam pipe manifold with merge collector
honestly just a 'china' 600x300x90 core with 2 and 2.5" piping...
and trust me... you will have lots of torque and fun below 3500rpmand seemingly instant response.. boost starts to arrive around the 1800rpm mark... and USEABLE boost/torque starts around 2500..
250fwhp in an ST162 at the moment but the injectors are maxed out at 1bar...
if you must use the ct26... a tapered twindrop dump pipe helped the 26 on the gen 2 spool alot earlier...
and one of those cheap stainless manifolds helped marginally also.. (obviously it's got nothing on a proper purpose built steam pipe job)..
what's "response"? have you been watching initial D?
Never watched that show..
Response as in you push the accelerator and the car reacts very quickly, turbo spools in early and feels "quick" "nimble" and "light" as opposed to a lag monster.
CT26 should be fine for my track (rally) application.. it gets a shit wrap but i think they're ok 15 or below.. I have a garrett gt30 and know they pull a hella lot harder. But i dont need that. and i dont need to spend $800ish on a gt28 for a budget build starting rally car (envolves buying custom dump and then getting it welded on (3" aussie dump pipe = bolt on plus great power diff..)
but mattyshop the setup you mentioned would be an ultimate for me.. but need the money
90' GT-Four ST185 RC motor ST205 gearbox!
New installs Ct20B and Rear Strut Brace!!
Next to come;
3SGE cams, Fidanza Adj Cams, WolfKatz fuel rail!!
as long as the dump pipe has a tapered design... as in exits from the turbo as a 2.25" 90 deg bend with a divider on the flange to separate the wastegate and the exhaust gas, and the wastegate pipe is only 1" in diameter....
after the bend on the dump pipe straight from the turbo, a long tapered cone going to 3", then just before it goes under the engine thats where you splice the wastegate pipe in..
that design has been around for a while now and is proven over and over again to be the most efficient way of making an internal gate turbo work it's best..
i would suggest that you look for someone in your area to make you a proper dump pipe like that..
you are right the CT26 is understated for what it is... but it's no ball bearing garret...
before we changed to a custom setup with a GT28R, he had the CT26 singing at around 14-15psi (before it melted) and about 218fwhp, (front mount, china stainless manifold, twindrop dump pipe, air intake), still kinda doughey under 3k... but it was alot better than the big open dump pipe (not stock cast one it was something that came with the half cut), and stock cast manifold...
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