Ga70/1GGTE engine knock and oil leak

[LeaThaL]

OK, the part im speaking off is the highlighted part in the first pic! so im removing the oil pump


with doing so, is there any tips anyone has for me as i dont wanna bugger it up, i figure its just put it back together the same way it comes apart but any tips for that time?




cheers

[tomo1ggte]

i thought you would replace 15134 (the brass washer) since thats the part thats sealing the bolt?? wouldnt it be a lot easier to just undo that bolt without removing the oil pump?

[LeaThaL]

well ATM its basicly impossable. ive tried a few different types of tools and that includes grinding down a few cheap spanners to fit in there, but due to the casing all round it there is no way in hell i can get it off without removing it

[roadkill]

Hi,

you say earlier that the engine hasn't even had it's first timing belt changed as it's not done 100,000k's but yet the car has done 213xxx kays? So i'm guessing that the engine has been swapped over somewhere along the line? I would personally be hoping that a 20yr old engine had it's timing belts/seals replaced somewhere along the line......

Oil starvation is one of the most common reasons why a big end will (eventually) fail. Sounds to me like it'd be a big end but do what others suggested to see if it is. If you're gonna go through the hassle of taking the oil pump off the front you may as well take the sump off too and see what's in the bottom of it. If there are lots of metal flakes then it's big end time. I recently did a quick big end replacement on a 4afe whilst it was still in the car and ran like a dream afterwards, so it doesn't neccessarily mean go and get a new engine. For the price of a set of big ends, some oil, filter and gaskets it's worth a shot.

bEn

[LeaThaL]

you are correct, it had a reco motor fitted at around 110xxxkms

i pulled the sump plug to have a look at what may be there and i found nothing so i dont know if its just not droped any shavings but as i couldnt get a oil filter (its not even 2000kms old) i just poped the sump plug and dropped the lot and put in some 20w60 penzol oil and sure enough its dead quiet with no knocks or rattles for the few times i started and drove it that day (incudes a cold start)

im removing the pump today as i now have the time to remove the bloody AC pump bracket! but it seems its just a split copper washer which once the case is removed I can put a new one on and see if that fixes the problem

[LeaThaL]

SUCCESS!



well by the looks of it the copper seal is good and fuck its on hard! might need to get it into a vice to remove it,

but is it me or is the clean bit on the far left a good sign of thats where my leak is comming from?

the seal itself in the block is still good but im thinking i should replace it if i can find a part

but while im here two things.....

1. do you have to prime the pump once its back on?

2. do the oil pumps run off timing, as in need to be set like the cams? or is it spin free like a water pump?

cheers

[roadkill]

Hi,

The pump should be fine to prime itself. The pump will probably run off a gear on the crank or something to the like. Just check what/where its driven when you go to bolt it back on. It'll spin free like a water pump.

bEn

[LeaThaL]

awesome! just want i wanted to hear

i know she runs off the timing belt it was just a factor of if i had to set it with the timing belt

thanks dude

[GA65CELICA]

if you do find the number for the oil pump o ring can you post it for us

[LeaThaL]

really old thead boost but dont like leaving people out of the loop if their looking for answers like i was tonight

as logic would tell you if you knew anything (unlike i did back then) it was all timing leaks, both cams, the crank and also the oil pump seal too, the block to pump seal was also gone but substuted with silicon.

i drove it like this for about a year losing 1L per 400kms, really stupid but once i knew what was wrong it was an easy fix, none of the parts were off shelf toyota parts, i simply had to take the seals into a auto parts store and match them to local made options and were all under $25 to buy, timing belt was off the shelf bosch item and can put up a part number if needed

the washer was fine but i replaced it with a matched size one from a sump washer kit assortment box at work.

and the knock is still there, its only very minor but the motor has gone 80,000kms so far like this and with weekly limiter bashing also, just seems to be minor noise when the oil pressure is building when cold

hope that helps anyone,