1JZ Autobox in MX83 Issues - Please See Bottom of Page 2

[Shifty]

start the engine. get a long screwdriver and place it against the block/head/accessories in various places, and your ear against the other end. it will act like a stethoscope and allow you to work out where the noise is coming from. while you're in the engine bay with the engine running, don't get yourself tangled up in anything spinning, or hot

[Pimpin_1JZ]

while you're in the engine bay with the engine running, don't get yourself tangled up in anything spinning, or hot

Haha I could picture it...

[the_random_hero]

Big ends are a VERY obvious noise.

[Dazza]

If a bigend bearing is shot your oil pressure will drop so connect an accurate gauge up to it and see what it says.
I just bought a ST162 Celica cheap because the previous owner thought it had done a big end bearing. When i went to pull the engine out i found three broken engine mounts that were causing the noise.
Have a good look around your engine bay and exhaust to make sure nothing is hitting because the dyno run could have found a weak mount or let a loose bracket twist enough to let something hit where it shouldn't

[Maverick]

Probably sounds like dumb question but what sort of engine oil are you using?

- the reason I ask is that when I had my last 1jz dyno tuned the the blokes told me that it was eventually going to throw rod as it had a big end knock. ( FYI the motor did have aftermarket forged pistons apparently)I initially had put in magnatec 10w-40 in it. After chatting to a very knowledgable mate he suggested a thicker oil. I used Motul 15w-50 and when I took it back - the apparent knock had vanished.

food for thought before you get to stressed about it, otherwise just drive the ass out of it and get another one in there

[Cressida25T]

UPDATE:
So I've fixed the heater hose and refilled the cooling system. When I start the car, it has a bad rattle sound (much like the start of this video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYgjLDZg1O0). Under load it doesn't make any noises like that though.

When I put it into reverse, the revs drop momentarily, but the car remains stationary. Drive is working, but there is very little power (certainly no kick from my 3076).

The car also starts to idle from cold @ around 1500rpm - which gradually builds to over 2000rpm after being driven (in Neutral and Park - the knock noise becomes very noticeable at this stage). Temperature is remaining normal. Also, I tried to find the dash warning lights for the digital JZX81 cluster, but I couldn't find what this symbol is supposed to mean:



I asked the mechanic to do a trans flush with some Toyota Type T-IV fluid, but it seems I've only been charged for 4 litres of Dex 3. Not happy... Could trans fluid which would have been mixed with some Penrite T-IV alternative be an issue?

Thanks for all the replies, I'm planning to go to a reputable mechanic soon for diagnosis, but I'm over towing fees

[Dazza]

It could be a piece broken out of the cat converter causing the noise. I have seen a couple of cat converters that make a shocking rattling noise at idle and low revs but as the revs increase the noise stops because the exhaust gasses hold the broken piece back against the honeycomb part of the cat converter. You can normally unbolt the cat and tip the broken bits out then bolt it back up again. This would not be legal because the cat will not be as efficient as it was but no-one will know if you don't tell them.
It sounds like you have some issues with the trans as well.

[sleepercorty]

check your torque convertor bolts havent come loose, i have fixed a couple of cars that mechanics have said big ends and quoted on a engine rebuild and was as simple as loose convertor bolts.

[Kedderz]

That symbol is for your cat converter im pretty sure, id check there first

[cri_ag]

catalitic convertor over temp. if its colapsed and blocking part of your exhaust then it will be down on power and feel slugish

[mr75]

easiest way take a oil sample and send it to a good oil analysis shop. you will know your answer by the end of the week as they will tell you if there is excess metal in your oil. and as mentioned replace your cat

[Cressida25T]

UPDATE:

Thanks for all the replies. The cat overheat is weird; considering the cat in the car has been gutted already! Guess you could call that high-flowed when you bought it right?

I was wondering what this connects to:



At the moment when I select reverse it will only move on the converters speed - on flat surfaces, just revs freely otherwise without going anywhere (I'm fairly sure it's the clutches from what I've read in other threads). My real issue is that I have no Overdrive, the button is pressed in but it still shows O/D off on the dash. I have unplugged the ABS computer with no change in gearbox operation. Anything else I should try?

Cheers