Using Factory Dash switches, but then getting hot?

**wagonist** · 12-03-2010, 07:18 PM

Yes, well that switch is a front fog switch for my last Dina. It had both front & rear fogs too, the rear fog switch on it was to the left of the wheel, where the 12V switch is & is a part shared with the IS200.
I got another front fog swtich from NZ & I used it for the spot lights on my last car.

And yes, this for the current Dina, which also has the front & rears now. Just a blanking plate where the windscreen wiper demist is, and that useless coin holder on the left.

**oldcorollas** · 12-03-2010, 07:21 PM

why not use the fog switch on the stalk? or you want front fogs and driving lights seperate?

coin holder is perfect for 100yen coins

so.. why not just duplicate the rear fog switch circuit for the spotlights? and use Toyota headlight relays??

**wagonist** · 12-03-2010, 07:46 PM

Yes, the switches need to be separate, I use both.

I don't know how the rear fog is wired up, especially the soft touch bit.

**oldcorollas** · 12-03-2010, 07:55 PM

follow the wires?
will look in the book tonight.... if i have time

**oldcorollas** · 12-03-2010, 09:23 PM

..........

**wagonist** · 13-03-2010, 02:03 AM

I feel this is starting to get away from the original topic.

It's all well & good to check how the standard front & rear fogs work, (ie front fogs triggered by parkers & switch, rear fogs by either headlights or front fogs & soft touch switch) but neither the trigger circuits, nor the powered circuits of these are running the same wattage as the high beam circuits & my spotlights. And I think this is where my "issue" is.

I was made a suggestion tonight about having the dash switch operated by either the "Accesory" or "Ignition on" circuits, & then having the high beam wire power up the relay, which then triggers a 2nd relay.
But my issue with this is that the switch is on & powered constantly whenever the car is on, and therefore triggering a relay which has no power going to it. Seems like a waste to me.
I thought I could do it with the parker wire, but this circuit doesn't come on when you "flash" highbeam.

**oldcorollas** · 13-03-2010, 02:22 AM

away fromn the topic?
aren't you using one of these soft switches at the moment? i'm trying to show you how it is SUPPOSED to be hooed up

if your spotlights are running off a relay, the that is no different to the front fog circuit shown above. either your wiring is stuffed, or your relay is crappy. the switch should not get warm.

why not hook it up like factory?

**wagonist** · 13-03-2010, 02:41 AM

No. I am currently not using any switch, which I'd like to change.

I would like to use a soft contact switch, but only because they have a light within them that shows when the circuit is active.

The previous setup used a hard contact front fog light switch like the one I linked to.

**oldcorollas** · 13-03-2010, 04:16 AM

..........

**wagonist** · 13-03-2010, 12:49 PM

Standard auto relays have similar pin numbers for the each.

Powered circuit
pin 30: power
87/87A: output

85 & 86: trigger reference

Hows this is wired up:
30: fused +12V directly from battery
87/87A: to spotlights

85: high beam
86: headlight common wire

The previous setup was a switch on 85.

I haven't found another way to wire it up so that it works correctly.
ie
86 hooked to earth -> spotlights work correctly when headlights are on, but they also turn on when the headlights are off
86 hooked to +12V -> spotlights are on for both high & low beam

Thought I had this morning:
because 85 is hooked up to the high beam, and 86 is hooked up to the common, I've hooked in a parallel circuit to the factory one, which is then sharing the current.
ie more than the couple of amps.
This is way out of my area though, so I'm only guessing.
I've got some spare relays here. I'll stick them in & see if anything's different.