Boost Me, Then Double Clutch Me, Till I Can Get My...Loss Of Traction
sa engineering
$70 to put paper work in
$300 for first consolt with engineer and more paper work
$550 for break testing/lane changing test
$500 for other engineering
$170 first inspection regancy
$70 second inspection
$550 emission test
$900 emission testing bells
and add some more for good measure
sa sucks nuts
mat
I live in Vic but I was always of the understanding that you could have a 4000hp 500cube V8 in a ke30 as long as you can prove the chassis/brakes/susp has been engineered to accept that power. As long as it meets all other ADR's like emissions etc etc etc. Just because you have 4000hp doesn't mean you have permission to go nuts on the street, you just have to drive like everyone else in your 4000hp ke30Hence supercars are allowed to be imported with crazy power to weight, simply because they are engineered to accept the power level... Thats always how I though it was (and i formed that opinion after speaking to a few people with some crazy, engineered and legal combo's in thieir cars) I guess one other example is rod hadfields 2000hp "most powerful street registered car in the world" (5 yrs ago??) was vic rego'd, and didn't look like it weighed in too much... i spose he wrote out the report himself....
my bad, 3000, quote "Another unbelievable car is Rod Hadfield's V12 Merlin powered '55 Chev. With 3000 Horsepower, this is THE MOST POWERFUL road registered car in the world." (still i don't know??)
just a quick read of your title and first post - i think the answer is simple drag > 1JZ or track > 3S.
I loved my celica to bits, ive beaten bikes (nothing too flash but i still beat em) and got a ferrari one day (happiest day of my life) but when it came to corners you'd wanna make sure both hands are firmly on the steering wheel. Also fuel economy was shithouse and couldnt afford to drive it everyday. Now im after the complete package, I have a KE70 and im about to go to town on it but with a 4G63 and simply cant wait to be able to jump into a car that will be good enough on fuel to drive everyday, drift, drag and to do a decent time on a track at the same time be quite unique
Another thing that was shitting me to tears was i went through 3 gearboxes in about 8 months and yep had to pull the motor out everytime. I was also praying that the starter motor never went because that would require the motor to come out also .
RA23 1JZ VVTi 373hp - SOLD
12.4 @ 110mph
THE EVOROLLA262.9hp - SOLD
JZ parts facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/groups/524841910926804/
Hrmm...
How much money you want to spend??
3s to run 10's will be HEAPS dearer.
Do you want to drive it on the street, and enjoy it?
Consider the fact that you want an auto, and 10's. The stall rpm alone on an auto 4cyl with enough grunt to run 10's will make it a less than pleasant car on the street.
I remember an article with an escort running 10's on a 500hp or so 4cyl (pinto motor i think??) 6000rpm stall converter.
But you want it unique too....
The 1j is getting stuck into everything and this will only increase as they get cheaper, and other motors (like 1g's) get older.
As phil has shown, 1j in pano is a great thing - but his is a VERY well matched set of gear to achieve what he does with the power he has. Plenty of people with more power that dont do as well.
As for it not handling with a 1j - alot of that is set up. Remember Paul's ra28 (ogoor) came 2nd outright in the dutton rally which included plenty of handling work.
No saying that a 3s wouldn't be easier to set up, or slightly better later - but so would useing a later model car with much better suspension design.
My advice - figure out what you really want most from the car, then prioritise the rest of what you would like. Then see if you can go for a run in cars with different setups.
It only took one spin in a turbo 6 in a celica 10 years ago for me to know that was what i wanted. after having had the 1g for years, being in 1j powered cars, and 4 cyl powered celicas to know a 1j was for me...
As for engineering - every state is different, and cost vary hugely. Be careful taking advice of the net as well, as every engineer is different, even within the same state. So find an engineer and talk to them about your plans - if you dont agree, call another one.
When i first started on my 1g conversion 10 years back, one engineer wanted me to fit the supra brakes and diff to match the motor - he wouldn't hear of any other set up - even though the hilux had 4 pistons and bigger discs etc etc.
The next engineer had done a 1g celica before, told me my brakes were overkill, but that there was no probs, and was able to offer suggestions on small things to ensure it passed easily.
He didn't charge me for phone consultation time, and my certificates were cheap. i have had my car engineered by him twice so far and in total for both certs (one covered motor, gearbox, brakes and rear seat removal - the other diff conversion, seats with heavily modified floor (which he advised), front mount intercooler, side pipe exhaust, steering wheel, wheels and tyres etc etc plenty more i have forgotten) it owes me under $800 for both lots of engineering.
Good luck with what you are trying to achieve - but as for being unique, you could do ALOT worse than follow Phil's recipe!
Cheers
Stew
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
why would you buy a beams 3sge and then turbo it. a far more sensible option would be to buy a 3SGTE
i'm guessing he's goin beams 3s as it already comes in rwd setup.
are the rod's and pistons in the blacktop beams the same length etc as the turbo 3s's? if so i dont see how it's gonna be more expensive than any other boosted 3s. there's heaps of choices for rods and pistons that can be had for $1300-1500.
how much power will you need to get 10's? if the crank is as strong as the 3sgte cranks then plenty of people have had them in the 8000rpm range. or you could even go the 5s stroker route for more bottom end etc.
yer ke70 sedans, the largest forced induction engine you can engineer, is a 2.2L. As the sedan weighs 890kg's. I also thought that the panel van was actually the litest of all ke70's and people just assumed it would be heavier???? i thought the 4door wagon was still just under 950kgs and you need a min weight of 1000kg to engineer a 2.5L turbo.
im going to do all the body and driveline mods first and then remass the car, before the engine goes in. might help tip the scales at 1000kg with the heavier diff, brakes, cage, tunnel, tubs, put in the back seat, suspension, full street trim, heavey wheels etc etc. then after the remass, put the light race trim in, strip the sound deadening etc etc.
A friend suggested lining the floorpan with some lead flashing and putting the carpet over it and disribute some sand bags evenly around the car in cavitys behind the trim to add some needed weight to tip the scales lol. but im not a fan of that idea lol
Boost Me, Then Double Clutch Me, Till I Can Get My...Loss Of Traction
Won't make any difference mate....weigh bridge counts for nothing, it's factory specs only.
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
only chance would be if it is classed as a commercial (if they still allow those rules??).. but then you have to register it as a commercial too...
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
i spoke to an engineer and he reckons if u get the vehicle remassed, not just reweighed. when u have a remass done u change the tare weight of the vehicle they do it for trucks and busses all the time.
Boost Me, Then Double Clutch Me, Till I Can Get My...Loss Of Traction
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