Lightweight Batterys

[Ben12a]

Yeah, the alarm changes things. In my track car I have no clocks, radios, alarms etc that continually drain the battery which is probably why I have no probs with my pulsebattery going flat.

I do not know how it would go with all that crap hooked up.

A slightly larger battery relocated to the boot would be a good compromise- at least you are getting some of the weight out of the front.

[RA35GT]

My car has an alarm with a battery back up siren and a clock and stereo.

Better weight distribution would be a good thing however.

[Esteban]

Herb Adams says "You should never add weight to cure weight distribution"

or similar

[Mole]

Whos adding weight? Battery is still smaller, still lighter. At worst it would be same weight.

[JoJo]

On the topic,

I have just bought an Oddessy PC680 for my AE86 to be mounted in the back. My engineer said to get a sealed Dry-cell battery so I didn't have to worry about venting. I asked the guy at battery world and he said this is what I needed.

Now, as I was looking at how I am going to mount it yesterday, I notice that the sticker on top of the battery says "don't charge in an enclosed space. Batterys produce explosive gases when charging etc etc".

So whats the go there? If it's a sealed battery, isn't it already enclosed. Have I bought the wrong type of battery? Is the RTA still going to say it needs to be vented?

[OnAll-FOUR]

I think you will be fine, They only relase the gass in an overpressure situation, but otherwise they are sealed.

Where have you guys been buying the PC680 from?

I have found a few places with it for $270-290 does that sound fair?

Nobody seems to stock the pulse PBH400 anymore, but I did find this "Full River Sports"one on ebay for $180?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FULLRIVER-SPO...item439f5252f1

[RA35GT]

I got mine from Battery World. thats about the price for them IIRC.

[OnAll-FOUR]

Bit of an update. I bought one of the full river ones and it was working fine for a while. Although after flattening it once not shutting a door properly and a second time using it to crank the engine to get oil pressure up after a BHG change, it doesn't crank like it was before. It is a bit of abuse but I am a little disappointed it didn't last too well. It is under warranty so I will see what they do.

In light of that I have forked out double the price for an PC680 from battery world. Hopefully with a little bit more care and a better make of battery, this one will last a bit longer

[OnAll-FOUR]

On the topic,

I have just bought an Oddessy PC680 for my AE86 to be mounted in the back. My engineer said to get a sealed Dry-cell battery so I didn't have to worry about venting. I asked the guy at battery world and he said this is what I needed.

Now, as I was looking at how I am going to mount it yesterday, I notice that the sticker on top of the battery says "don't charge in an enclosed space. Batterys produce explosive gases when charging etc etc".

So whats the go there? If it's a sealed battery, isn't it already enclosed. Have I bought the wrong type of battery? Is the RTA still going to say it needs to be vented?

I noticed that as well on the PC680 I got, but if you then read the manual that comes with the PC680 battery ( BTW the full river one didn't come with any spporting info) It again says that the battery doesn't vent anything and does not need to be vented. So i'm not 100% sure but My understanding is that the AGM batteries don't vent the gasses like the GEL or normal batteries and hence why they can be shipped easily and even USPS will ship them without any special restrictions

[Mole]

From what I've been led to believe, they only vent when theres something wrong, such as if it overheats, then the one way valves on the top vent out liquid and gas to prevent damage. No problem, no venting.

[kriso]

if you want no leakage definately go nothing else then a AGM deepcycle, you can mount these anyway you want even upside down and they dont leak, with deepcycles the diffrence in price is usually the actual usable rating of the battery, anything 80% or higher is a good battery. some are cheap but you can only extract 60-70% of the power out of them before they are screwed.

The big thing is dont skimp on the charger as some chargers will kill a deep cycle easy as especially gel type batteries. the best i have found is the C-tek xs7000. my other hobby is fishing and we use deepcycles quite alot and have got know whats worth the money and whats not. the C-teks while abit expensive definatley pay for themselves in the life you will get out of your battery. handy features of them, if you run your battery really low say under 8 volts most battery chargers wont charge properly as they need to detect a surface voltage and under 7-8 volts they stuggle to find it . with the c-teks your can put full supply chare cycle on so it gives it a full charge top up at 13. something volts to bring the surface voltage up so the charger can then detect where it is at then gradually charge it in stages so the battery isnt damaged, also as batterys cop abuse they build upcrystals on the cells and eventually kill the load capacity of the battery, with the c-tek you can put it on restore mode and it will break down that build up extending the battery life. could go on for ages about deep cycles and chargers but would bore the shit out of you best thing is to check out the ctek website. oh if you looking for a cheap c-tek charger the best deal i saw lately was at watts2c.com.au

[The Witzl]

unless you want to get buttraped by the price of a C-tek charger, check out these chargers in the Jaycar range. All are equivalent or BETTER in features and performance to a C-Tek charger, and significantly cheaper.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResu...x=0&SUBMIT.y=0

ALL lead-acid batteries, including dry cell and gel cell, must be fitted with a "relief valve" to vent any excess pressure that might occur if overcharged, or if something goes wrong inside the battery.

Using deep cycle batteries is not really ideal for a "cold cranking" application, as they are not designed to deliver the high current cranking load that a starter motor needs to kick over an engine. Deep cycle batteries are designed for low to moderate discharge current over long periods of time, and designed to be "deep cycled" (ie, deeply discharged each cycle).

Deep cycle batteries are generally much heavier than a proper "starting" battery, as the lead plates are much thicker by design, and dont have as much "honeycomb" or sponging. This lowers the surface area of the lead plates, which limits the maximum current that the battery can deliver - but also increases the batteries ability to be deeply discharged and recovered without any damage to the battery.

I would personally NOT use a deep cycle battery for an engine start battery for a race/circuit car - they are heavy, and in order to get the necessary cranking amps, you need to buy a bigger battery on top of that!

[MXP_57]

I've got a Braille battery in my st165. It weights 3.5kg and it's the same size as a ps3 controller. (a bit thicker lol)

Cost me less than 200aud shipped from the US.