7MGTE sump mods, and water pump and harmonic balancer replacement?

[boxh34d]

My engine build is getting close to completion. However, I have not yet got a new harmonic balancer, or a water pump. I'm also curious if anyone has really looked at the sump design, and whether they have improved on it in any way.
I have done some searching, but have not turned up much that is directly related.

I am assuming that harmonic balancer will need to be genuine? Does anyone know of aftermarket manufacturers that make them, and if so, are they any good? Has anyone bought one recently, and what was the cost? Typically the local is quite a bit more expensive than other places I've talked to. Whats the norm?

Is there any water pumps that people would recommend over others? Also, I once heard ( I can't remember where ), that significantly more water flow can be achieved by machining down the back of the pump mounting surface, to gain a tighter tollerance against the scroll, and therefore more flow. Anyone got any thoughts??

Has anyone modded the factory sump with windage trays, trap doors, extra capacity etc, or has anyone has purchased / fab'd a new one? How does the standard one compare with others you've seen?

Thanks for the help.

[neal]

Try this link http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...ht=sump+baffle

[andrew_mx83]

i was going to baffle the sump in my race 7m-ge but am now going dry sump instead. its not really that expensive for a whole lot more insurance. use the standard pump as the pressure side and its relatively easy to setup.

[tig321]

My engine build is getting close to completion. However, I have not yet got a new harmonic balancer, or a water pump. I'm also curious if anyone has really looked at the sump design, and whether they have improved on it in any way.
I have done some searching, but have not turned up much that is directly related.

I am assuming that harmonic balancer will need to be genuine? Does anyone know of aftermarket manufacturers that make them, and if so, are they any good? Has anyone bought one recently, and what was the cost? Typically the local is quite a bit more expensive than other places I've talked to. Whats the norm?

Is there any water pumps that people would recommend over others? Also, I once heard ( I can't remember where ), that significantly more water flow can be achieved by machining down the back of the pump mounting surface, to gain a tighter tollerance against the scroll, and therefore more flow. Anyone got any thoughts??

Has anyone modded the factory sump with windage trays, trap doors, extra capacity etc, or has anyone has purchased / fab'd a new one? How does the standard one compare with others you've seen?

Thanks for the help.

For the harmonic balancer, as long as the original one is in good shape (rubber not cracked, keyway not damaged) you should be fine. if you were looking for big power 5-600+ or have deep pockets you could order one from ati.
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da.../damtoyota.htm

Some people have modified their pans for more capacity by adding to the sides of he sump and adding baffles.Canton, Milodon, Moroso , I can't remember who, make a universal kit someone on Supramainia used (alot of MKIII owners on that site, good place for 7m info)
you could also weld in a crankscraper or a one way windage screen.
The oil system on the 7m is not a problem as long as bearing clearances are tight and there is sufficient oil, many people run a quart over as a safety precaution. You could add an accusump, gain some oil capacity and piece of mind. I'd get one if you plan to track your car.
http://www.accusump.com/

I have never heard about milling the water pump, I really don't think it's necessary. Any quality jobber part should get the job done, but I try to buy discount aisin parts as the dealer charges a fortune. As long as your rad the the rest of the cooling system is in good shape you should be fine. Be sure your viscous fan is working propery and that you install your fan shroud and engine under cover.

[boxh34d]

I probably should have clarified earlier, but the build is into my MA71 supra, which before the build had 225RWKW @12psi, limited by fuel available. With 550's, RRFPR, walbro, 15PSI and the other mods from the build, hoping for 250RWKW, maybe a touch more.
Mainly used for touring and spirited hills driving, but has previuosly had a couple of sessions around Winton.

Neal: Thanks for that link, quite interesting.

Andrew: I'm not really prepared to go to that length, but do you have any details anywhere for interests sake? I'm sure there would be others curious to see how you've gone about it.

Tig321: The balancer on the motor being built ( a spare ) has the rubber in fairly poor condition. Not sure how good the one on my current motor is, as it hasn't been pulled out yet. Just been quoted $570 odd for a new one from toyota, ouch!
Noone in aus makes a replacement sump that I can find, so have to try and track down someone who knows what they are doing to mod one. Mainly looking to prevent surge via baffles / trap doors, but if extra volume is not difficult, then that may be added too. I'm unsure whether to change the stock oil cooling system and go down the remote mount filter, thermostat and cooler track, or leave it pretty much as is. Everyone says that the stock system is compromised, and I can see on principle it is. However, I'm still yet to see anyone do some back to back tests re temp and pressure before and after. My mind always come back to the same thing. The stock system ensures that the engine will get oil, even if a bit hot. The same can't be said about modded systems. The best you can hope for is that by shimming the pump a bit, it will make up for the pressure loss of all the pipework running around, and still maintain more than 4PSI at idle.
The rest of the cooling should be fine. Rad was cleaned 2 years ago (will be detanked at cleaned again), and the shrouded falcon thermos do a good job at moving air.

Thanks for the replies, keep them coming if you have any thoughts.

[andrew_mx83]

u can use the internal oil pump as the pressure side, take the ghey strainer off and pull the plug out from the 2nd inlet on the pump. run a line from this to a 5-10lt tank (easy to fab from ally or stainless).
now all u need to do is get the oil that has been pumped around the engine back into the tank. run a small scavenge pump with 2 pickups in the bottom of the standard sump with a line to the tank and voila you're done

can run the scavenge line through a cooler before it goes back into the tank for extra cooling too. i will be doing this as well using the 7m-gte filter/take off thingy and running that thru my a/c condensor then drop it back into the sump to be collected by the scavenge pump. twin oil coolers FTW



pretty sure ive got a good 7m balancer at home if ur chasing one.

[boxh34d]

Thanks Andrew.

Anyone else have any thoughts / ideas / insight?

[boxh34d]

Thanks Andrew.

Anyone else have any thoughts / ideas / insight?

[HKS_TRD]

Wow, the ATI dampeber is cheaper than the Toyota one

If you can afford it go the ATI dampener for peace of mind

I've only every used the genuine Toytoa water pump with no problems up to 400+rwkw

I used the PWR radiator, perfect drop in fit, cant ask for more than that

[boxh34d]

Wow, the ATI dampeber is cheaper than the Toyota one

If you can afford it go the ATI dampener for peace of mind

I've only every used the genuine Toytoa water pump with no problems up to 400+rwkw

I used the PWR radiator, perfect drop in fit, cant ask for more than that

Thanks for that.
From memory you have a TRD sump dont you?
Have you ever compared the internals of the standard sump compared to the TRD one? I know the TRD uses a bell on the bottom for extra capacity, but is it much different internally?
Also, curious as to what you've done oil cooler wise.
Thanks.

[HKS_TRD]

Thanks for that.
From memory you have a TRD sump dont you?
Have you ever compared the internals of the standard sump compared to the TRD one? I know the TRD uses a bell on the bottom for extra capacity, but is it much different internally?
Also, curious as to what you've done oil cooler wise.
Thanks.

Hi there

Yep I do have the TRD sump, I havent compared to a stock one, but I may be able to do so in the near future possibly.

For the oil cooler I run a HK$ kit but basically its thermatically controlled inline cooler like they do with all the other kits they make. This also gets rid of that ugly right angle thing on the block and remote mounts the filter on the block that has the thermostat in it. I noticed I picked up oil pressure at idle from this straight away, the factory setup is a bypass which is a bit of a fail

I was also told that for stock rods its good to weld up one of the oil relief holes which none of the aftermarket rods have, to help with oil control, not sure how accurate that is.

Sounds like you arent pushing for insane power but still pays to do things right to get it to be reliable

[boxh34d]

Interesting that you picked up oil pressure at idle, with the longer lines, and the oil cooler inline.
Thanks for the input.

[HKS_TRD]

no worries

it probably has something to do with the cooler being inline and not a bypass setup like the stock cooler and also the HKS cooler not having the oil go through it till the thermostat on the filter mounting block opens

[Demon]

Howzit gents. Could you guys please give me sum advice on a sump cut. I need to cut the sump away for the mod im busy with. What would be the best way to go ?

[boxh34d]

Sorry mate, sheet metal fab is not my best knowledge subject, so take this with a grain of salt.
I assume a nibbler, or a fine grinding wheel on a dremmel or such would be the go.
I can say with certainty however, that tin snips really are not the ideal tool to do the job, apart from whatever a previous owner of one of my engines thought!!