My understanding is that it controls the line pressure, i.e. you want it...
What is your reason for not wanting to run it?
Cheers
Wilbo
Do I need the kick down cable on the a340e?
I'm not running it, nor am I running the standard ECU or any such things, I'm shifting the thing manually so I can't imagine why I would.
But it is in the way and I couldn't find an easy way of 'unhooking' it.
Can I just cut it off close down near the auto casing?
My understanding is that it controls the line pressure, i.e. you want it...
What is your reason for not wanting to run it?
Cheers
Wilbo
As wilbo said it controls ( increases ) line pressure, so basically it increases internal fluid pressure's so changes the shift points & also from memory it also increases pressure to the clutch packs & the like, but in saying that as you are controlling the Auto Manually i cant see why if you definately dont want to use the cable i suppose you could cut the cable short & pull the inner out 20mm or so & put a cable lock on the inner cable, which would have the result of increasing the line pressure all the time ...
Rob ..
Last edited by lexsmaz; 04-01-2010 at 12:40 AM.
you cant just cut it off.. you need to remove the sump and unhook the wire from the throttle like plate inside the gearbox... otherwise its gunna flap around, get loose by itself and go walking thru your gearbox..
the kickdown cable should control pressures to the gearbox shifting manually or not, or shifting up or down... so you will need it for that gearbox
Cool, thanks guys. Glad I didn't just cut it!
By the sounds of things I'd be better off just permanently pulling it tighter....
if you pull it tight all the time it will bang into each gear no matter how hard your foot is on the throttle.
Just set it up properly and the vehicle will be much nicer to drive with no ill effects under power.
Cheers
Linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
You still need the cable, shift kit is in the valve body and replacing accumulator springs, the cable still controls line pressure after a shift kit, as Linden said it will be hard as hell every change if clamped fully open or flared shifts if removed. I would just adjust properly and forget about it, it is your friend!!![]()
Hi,
I'm wondering, if you have the cable a bit too tight, making the shifts hard. Does this cause damage to the transmission or noticeably more wear?
Thanks
An auto transmission will last longer if the shift is nice and hard. The clutch packs are not slipped (as much) so not so much clutch pack wear, the tranny fluid is not being heated up by slipping clutch packs so longer fluid life. Auto transmissions shift nice and soft from factory for a mix of reasons including passenger comfort. If the choice is tightening the cable or leaving it loose I recommend tightening.
The same cannot be said for all the components living behind the hard shifting tranny however... Uni's are copping a hit each gearchange as is the diff and tires. These components will have reduced life if still factory items. Also if your auto hits hard enough on each change to screech the tires then the cops will love you! The answer for this set of problems is a 3000+ hi stall convertor!Then of course you need uprated tranny fluid cooler(s) and a company fuel card!
Cheers,
Jason
3TC Compound Turbo 1976 TA23 - Members Ride Thread HERE
479RWHP on 50psi and 70psi hasn't broken her at the track!
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