$20 turbosmart bleed valve will enable you to get some more boost.
But make sure your intercooler is up to keeping it cold. (ie, get that bigger FMIC).
What car is it in? GZ20 I'm guessing?
If so, the next best upgrade is a new (bigger) engine.
HI Guys,
I have a 1GGTE that goes alright but i now feel like it needs more power.
Mods:
HKS mushroom
Supra FMIC
3inc exhaust
Im after the cheapest way to get more power, i was thinking bleed valve and a bigger FMIC.
I need to know about injectors and turbos, what fits and other models i can take parts from, i.e GTR injectors for a CA18.
Any help would be great and also peoples experience with what has worked and not worked.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Kieran
$20 turbosmart bleed valve will enable you to get some more boost.
But make sure your intercooler is up to keeping it cold. (ie, get that bigger FMIC).
What car is it in? GZ20 I'm guessing?
If so, the next best upgrade is a new (bigger) engine.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Hi mate.. i used to have a gz10 with a 1ggte..
mods were..3" exhaust, FMIC with 2.5-3" piping, K&N filter..turbosmart bleed valve..
also had a t piece manifold made up and ran a high flowed ct26 and safc..
on 16-17psi i made 276rwhp...
i also had some adjustable cam gears but they werent used yet.. i was planning to run 1gge cams.. but that involves re-shimming etc..
also, from memore 7mgte injectors fit (440cc).. but you need SAFC or something similar to control them otherwise you overfuel hardcore..
good luck with it mate..
Stomps
Thanks guys,
The car is a GX81 Cresta. Thinking im going to go with the bleeder and FMIC. Didnt really want to spend a heap on the motor as i do at some stage want to go 1JZ out of the same model (non-vvti).
Anyone know what size intercooler i can run? i would measure it up and i will to be 100%, but if anyone has done it before it would be good to know.
Thanks
There are quite a few threads here about 1G performance and also regarding modifications to Cressida's (to suit things like intercoolers and dumps for 1JZ conversions). Best to have a look for those first.
In regards to the size of the cooler, I would start by getting something that you wont need to replace when you get the 1JZ conversion done. The typical size is 600x300x75 and fits quite well in the front, and to save a little money, make the pipes connect to the factory ones as soon as possible to minimise the fabrication required.
This should net you a decent amount of power and you already have the added benefit of it being manual. Most threads indicate that 180-190rwkW is possible on the stock turbos so if you feel the need for any more then its probably best to wait for the 1JZ conversion.
more boost, justjap cooler or something similar,
total $200-300
i made 171rwkw with that setup
Originally Posted by RAd28
Cheers man, dont use the forum much so not to savy with how it works but thanks for the tip.
Im thinking the same thing if im going to be spending 1K plus on mods for a 1g i would rather just save the extra cash and go 1j. the way the intercooler is set up at the moment to upgrade and re-mount with new pipes should be simple as, might not even need fab work.
Thanks for the support guys this has just reaffirmed what i was thinking, so im off to get a bleed valve and FMIC this weekend.
Thanks again
i would just go for a standard 600x300x76 cooler and make it fit.. but im only saying that coz i played around with "bolt in" upgrade intercoolers and found them only marginally more effective than factory.. and not worth the cost...
remember also.. they have a fuel cut.. so if you want to run more than about 12psi.. you need an FCD or some form of fuel controller..
Stomps
Cool,
didnt know they had a fuel cut, so thats something good to know.
Just have to say you have all been really helpful.
Thanks
mine ran 15psi with no fuel cut probs.
Factory airflow meter, comp and injectors.
hks manifold and to4e turbo.
Cheers
Stew
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
yeah, mine was strange.. initially it cut at 12odd psi.. but once i changed turbos from stock ct26 to highflow ct26 it took 16psi before cutting..
after a basic safc tune to take some fuel out i threw 21psi at it once and it didnt cut..
Stomps
mate i am getting rid of all my 1G stuff, so if you need any thing give me a PM
Stuff includes, custom exhaust manifold suit t25 flange turbo, GT2871R Turbo (on EBAY now), 440cc Injectors, HKS cams, Adjustable cam gears, HD clutch & custom flywheel, pipeing c/w turbosmart blowoff valve.... and the list goes on..
Most of its not really a cheap mod i relise.. but just incase you want to go crazy..
I was making around 200rwkw, which was a hoot.. You will need aftermarket ECU though
Pm me price + spec for hks cams plz.
RA23 - Twincharged
JZZ20 - Daily
Hi.
Raise the boost to about 14 PSI or so.
Get a larger Intercooler, don't go a big 600 x 300 if you plan on keeping the CT12's for a while, get something smaller with 2.5" inlet/outlets, Adsport on here had better results with smaller inlet/outlets.
Get a SAFC and get it tuned, makes a big difference on 1g-gte's.
Personally I can't advise a bleed valve. I have had 4 1G's in my time and personally would deal with the 10-12psi that you get from a good exhaust and intercooler. Yes 1 bar feels a little bit better, especially on a cold night, but you will probably start getting problems. If you want to go 1J, try to do it before you destroy this engine, if you got $1000 for it that's 1/4 of your conversion done...
Otherwise i'd go, safc, custom y-pipe, cooler, 15-18psi for some decent power... and wait for it the bearings to go...
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