Trailer Brakes - 5x114 and can fit inside 13.5" rims

[WDE_BDY]

As per the title, rebuilding my trailer and looking for brake options. Have got wheels from a Hiace truck running 235/50 13.5's, only decent low profile weight rated tyres I could find for a single axle trailer. So now I need a set of brakes/hubs to go in them so I can get my axle made. Was originally going to use Falcon front hubs but they don't fit in the wheels. So what is out there that you've seen? Probably looking at a rear setup from a FWD, but need to happy they can take the weight (probably 1,500kg loaded). Not really a fan of the Trojan stuff but will go that way if I have to.

Callum

[wagonist]

confused?
Are you looking for a brake setup that'll fit under a 13, or an axle & brake setup that will do this?

I've got 13's on my car trailer which is running a 70's Torana front disc brake setup, but these are really hard to come by.

[WDE_BDY]

After braked hubs and stubs that will fit in my 13.5" rims with 5x114 stud pattern. Prefer a hub/stub that can be bolted to an axle rather than having to weld on. Means I can incorporate a spare hub and stub into the spare wheel mount incase I damage one, nothing worse than being stuck on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere.

Callum

[wagonist]

Why do you prefer bolted on stub axles?
I've never heard of a stub axle failing before, only the bearing (which give a weak point to fail by) or the hub, and these only because of improper maintenance of checking the hub bolt tightness or bearing grease.
5x114.3 (Ford stud pattern) trailer hubs & brake kits are very commonly available & will fit under a 13" rim. Repco or some such store (not sure what you have over there) or a trailer supply place will have these.

I'm intending install both a fully setup spare lazy hub & a fully setup spare braked hub on my trailer (braked & unbraked axles are slightly different) so that I've got 2 spares (when you go bush you never know what will happen)

[WDE_BDY]

I've seen stubs bend before and also seen a failed bearing stuff a stub, so if I can get a bolt on option its preferable. My brother has his tandem trailer setup with modified Holden stubs that bolt on and are spigoted as well, runs the same for all 4 wheels but only has calipers on the front axle. Its just a bit of extra peice of mind (especially single axle) to know that you should be able to get mobile again with only basic tools. I am actually leaning towards Trojan or similar aftermarket brands now as not much factory style stuff to suit. If I go the aftermarket gear, stubs will be welded through a plate that bolts onto the axle with the rest of the stub sticking through and spigoting into the axle. Then I just get three hubs and stubs and the third will be used on the spare wheel mount.

Callum

[wagonist]

I've seen stubs bend before

Were these bolted on stubs, or the machined stub part of a longer axle?
Not doubting you, but I'm well curious.

Not that I'm going to try to cut any sections out of my 40x40mm solid axles to change them

Definitely reinforces my statement about making sure they are well maintained.
Actually, I haven't touched mine in a year & it's lived outside all that time. Tick for something to do this weekend.

[WDE_BDY]

Was a single axle rally car trailer, hit a rock in the middle of nowhere. Bent it enough to damage the bearing and for the disc to bind on the caliper so was between caliper mount and the hub I presume. Was a weld on stub from memory.

Callum

[Toy77]

I would have thought that with that kind of weight you would have gone to a dual axle trailer anyway????

[WDE_BDY]

1,500kg is max including trailer weight, single axle has a lot of manouverability advantages at that size. Will be used for my 800kg Starlet and probably my 1,100kg Corolla as well on ocassion. I have access to my brothers tandem if I need anything bigger, wouldn't really go for a tandem until you get into bigger cars. The trailer itself adds a lot to your towing weight with a tandem as well, especially if you have a less powerful tow wagon.

Callum

[Toy77]

i understand the manouverabilty issue.

When i redid the the setup under my boat trailer (due to a stuffed stub necessitating a new axle) i thought it was on the limit for a single axle. The heaviest rated springs i could get from isp was 1300kg.
And i have to run light truck tyres for the load rating.
The risk of damaging a rim or a stub axle is massively increased with a single axle at that loading compared to a double. as well as not having the option of limping home with one wheel off (which i had to do on a long weekend with a hire trailer)

I am going to add a second axle when i give the trailer a going over next time. The weight difference would be less than 100kg at the most. but i tow with a patrol....

Cheers
Stew

[WDE_BDY]

The tyres I'm running are off a 1 tonne load capacity Hiace truck, actually rated at 900kg or 1000kg each. 1500kg springs, hubs and stubs are all off the shelf items here. My trailer was built about 10 years ago from dimensions off another trailer that towed really well that was built about 20 years before, don't want to start from scratch effectively in terms of towability. I've owned it about 8 years now and it is really really good to tow, just lacking brakes. Also need to widen it a little (just take off side rails) to fit my Starlet and fit a tilting mudguard to making getting in and out of the car easier when loading, was planning to do all the changes at once.

Callum

[wagonist]

I'm in the process of trying to add a 2nd axle to my car trailer. It's only got 500kg ea springs (so 1000kg), yet most of the small cars that go on it are almost that weight (class limit for the Excel is 965kg), so with the weight of the trailer, its overloaded.

Plus theres that problem if something goes wrong, there's half a chance of limping out on 3 wheels. Can't do that with a single axle. Plus it means there's less weight downwards on the tow vehicle, meaning it can be a little smaller.

Now to find someone who can weld...