Overheating Aristo / 2JZ

[ReQuieM]

Hi All,

So leaving out as much of the saga as possible, my aristo split the top tank on the radiator, at the same time the hydraulic part of the water pump had started leaking and it was nearly due for a 100k so I thought I'd do all at once.

I picked up a radiator from a mates half cut, replaced the hydro water pump with another low k spare, which turned out to be leaking from the water portion once pressurised. So I tore it down again (tried the same pump again with more silicon same result so), Then fitted a non hydraulic water pump instead that I had spare. I then replaced the hydro fan with a Zirgo 3000cfm 16" thermo fan. Wired it up to a craig davis slip in thermo switch - relay - fuse. All in and apparently working.

The problem is that the car is now over heating. I just replaced the radiator cap as the one that was on the radiator was pretty average, with no change.

The car sits on mid temp at idle, one I touch the accelerator the temp climbs almost immediately to around 3/4 or a bit more. I haven't pushed it to see if it goes any higher but I also don't want to risk it.

So advice I have been given so far, perhaps the fan blades were placed oh wrong from factory? (s blades) Fan is shit? (although new zirgos can go for up to 300, I got mine cheaper 170ish) Need more cooling? Radiator is fuck? Thermo may be fucked from being overheated when the radiator went, so it is not opening correctly anymore? Although it is new from just before the radiator died...

Any thoughts? It almost feels like the cooling system isn;t up to par or has air in it... Is there a way to bleed it past the usual cap off top up etc?

Also today is the first 30deg day melb has had this summer/spring so that can't be helping but still I don't think it justifies the temp changes...

Any help would be appreciated

Cheers

[cambelt]

No auto electric fan will pull the air the toyota hydro or clutch fans pull . Put a manual fan on yr non hydro waterpump if space allows.
Dave

[CELICASUPRA7M]

also, half cut radiator might be clogged up from sitting around, maybe get it cleaned?
good luck
Will.

[ReQuieM]

I think its all good now. A case of major air lock it seams, but I will retest it in the heat tomorrow.

[CrUZida]

Process for filling up with coolant (assuming radiator cap is roughlythe highest point)

• While cold, fill up cooling system till radiator is full (mae sure you give it a few mins to settle)
• Put cap on, squeeze top hose half dozen times, take cap off, top up if needed. Repeat a couple of times till it makes no difference
• Start engine with cap off
• Turn heater on full
• Top up radiator if possible/necessary
• Run engine until water starts overflowing from radiator (temp guage should have moved by now)
• Put cap back on and make sure overflow bottle system is working (ie, the hose that goes to the radiator continues down to the bottom of the bottle, it is possible to get it backwards, and it doesn't work backwards at all).
• After engine has been idling for a few mins at normal operating temp turn off
• Check overflow bottle and top right up
• Leave rad cap on and let engine cool
• Once engine is cold, remove rad cap and top up if required, check overflow bottle and top up if required.
• Check again after a couple of days (it should have sorted itself out by then though)

While this system probably isn't the best, I've been using it for years and have never had an airlock occur.

[allencr]

The car sits on mid temp at idle, one I touch the accelerator the temp climbs almost immediately to around 3/4 or a bit more.

Engine water temps don't change that fast, so FIRST, it's a gauge problem.

I've never seen an 'airlock', major or otherwise, only systems that haven't been refilled after getting hot enough to open the thermo. & the RPM going over 2000 a few times with the heater valve open to force everything through.