9"diff into ma61 conversion

[Robbos_Toyotas]

Live axle is the way to go if straight-line fasts is your thing. I'd be taking a completely different approach though, and stuffing that "wild" 2JZ in a different car which already has a live axle. There are plenty to choose from, even if you want to keep it in the Toyota family. Just off the top of my head, how about an MX32 which will easily accommodate a 2JZ and weighs about the same as (or less than) an MA61? Or you could 2JZ-ify an old Ford/Holden/Chrysler and give the bogans a conniption. I always thought a Charger with a built 2JZ would be cool.

This is the route I would take, mostly because I'm lazy. Stuffing a 9" in a car already setup for live axle is way easier than any IRS to live axle conversion.

im hearing you, but i just love the ma61 shape, id rather spend all the money on it and have a car i love, have had since i was 13 and goes like a busted ass..its my toy so i am happy to throw money at it for results. lets face it theres not that many around the world running 10 sec or better 1/4's.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

ok just to correct you here dude, i dont run billet half shafts, my rear end is all factory toyota excluding the control arm bushes at the front and the bushes that locate the diff in the cross member, the rest is how it came from toyota in 1991.

my diff centres are welded up, nothing fancy there, the money i have spent on buying 3.7 ratios and having them put in with new beaings has cost me $2200. the IRS is costing me easily .8 of a second which is a long time in drag racing. i would love to put a 9 inch in my car but keepo the factory chassis rails. i could easily fit a 11.5 inch slick under it and my chassis guy who does my roll cage etc tells me that he would expect low 1.2 sixty foots with a 9 inch and that size tyre, that would put me very close to a 7.8 with the power and weight i currenlty have. the diff conversion would save more weight too.

put the 9 inch in it, the jza80 diff is dumb, sure 1 guy has arun a 7 sec pass in a light weight jza80 but the cost of centres, metal bushes all round and playing with it over and over again it has cost him far more money and headache.

a fully sorted 9 inch into my car keepin gthe facotry chassis rails is $10 grand inlcuded the diff the diff centre, 4 link, billet axles and tin work.

not bad but i dont have that sort of coin laying around and wont have for some time yet.

shane

im happy with 10 grand. its a once off expense. totally agree regarding the jza80 diff, for the 50 or so kg less it weighs, ill get more traction and also a strengthened/ more ridgid rear chassis, which looking under the ma61 it doesnt have anything fancy stock

[Robbos_Toyotas]

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50146


and im pretty sure justen doesnt have a JZA80... its somthing else.

his is a jza70 torsen ive since learnt

[brett_celicacoupe]

yeh i thought it was JZA70.


anyhow incase you didnt notice im selling that complete diff and subframe ^^^^^

[Robbos_Toyotas]

yeah i know mate, looking at that vs a ma61 floorpan/ chassis, that would be a mega pita to fit...sorry my decision is made

[brett_celicacoupe]

fair enough.

want the floor to go with it?

[Robbos_Toyotas]

all good mate, im gonna stick by my bogan ways

[Crambo]

I'll show you this IRS anyway. MZ21, G diff, I looked at Toyota's and non Toyota and this I think is as close as you get.
Rear bolts are 30mm off original, re drilled chassis rail.
Front bolts are 40mm off original, cut subframe and weld mount back in new spot.
Subframe has 2 extra bolts, provide more floor stiffening and add the extra bolts.
Sounds easy, aye. The real fun comes with the shocks/springs but you have to do that anyway!

"IF" I were to do it again, I would make the tower brace a subframe for shock mounting then sheet metal the towers to keep the dust out

[wilbo666]

Do you think that using an RA60 rear floor pan section would be a good starting point?



Cheers
Wilbo

[WDE_BDY]

I doubt a factory 4 link floorpan would actually assist that much, to get proper geometry you will be moving the mount points anyway and using coilovers. So might as well start from scratch without any factory compromises and build it to suit exactly what you want in terms of geometry and tyre size. Mind you, I wouldn't need to deal with your retarded engineering laws so life would be a lot easier.

Callum

[Robbos_Toyotas]

I doubt a factory 4 link floorpan would actually assist that much, to get proper geometry you will be moving the mount points anyway and using coilovers. So might as well start from scratch without any factory compromises and build it to suit exactly what you want in terms of geometry and tyre size. Mind you, I wouldn't need to deal with your retarded engineering laws so life would be a lot easier.

Callum

ive been looking at the mcdonald brothers site and to my amazement the 4 link kits are cheap! you can buy chassis clips and all...which saves dicking around with an ra60 floorpan. The conversion may be easier and cheaper than i thought now looking at whats available at a price....

Blake

[thechuckster]

If you do all this (cut+tub+bogan diff) and only take it down willowbank once, you have to go clubbing in the valley only wearing a rubber chicken hat and a too-tight-for-male-anatomy yellow tutu.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

If you do all this (cut+tub+bogan diff) and only take it down willowbank once, you have to go clubbing in the valley only wearing a rubber chicken hat and a too-tight-for-male-anatomy yellow tutu.

hahaha you're on.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

does anybody have photos of the rear end setup in an ra60? still playing with this idea lol, house renos take precidence unfortunately...

[Robbos_Toyotas]

also does anybody know how different the rear floorpan of an ra60 is to ma61? are the chassis the same meaning i could cut floorpan out and put it into ma61?