RA24 + MA70 suspensions

[tacoma_kyle]

Sooo……did some recent work. A buddy suggested I see about the engine fitment since I have yet to do so, and have not been too sure. If I hadn’t mentioned, lots of welding too. Yeah. So I am both lucky as shit, and have shitty luck. And some in between.

The good news, the engine will go in. Barely! But it will. The rear sump SC400 engine has about .25 inches from hitting the cross-member.

The bad news is that I will have to pull the front suspension and drop the cross-member to do it. Well not that bad I guess, as the suspension is all attached to the sub-frame. But disconnecting brake lines will be annoying.

In in-between news, I will have to either find a smaller brake booster, or cut the firewall and slide it back. To make the engine fit without moving the cross-member, this is necessary. Need to look around now. The RA24’s booster is about 9.5” in diameter on the fat part. I don’t recall how thick. I need something about 7” Ø, preferably.

Last news, I will have to pull the BFH on the tunnel. The W58 fits fine, but the UZ bell does not. Well not with the engine this high (because I dropped the chassis with respect to the suspension; which the engine mounts to). So I will either hammer the tight spots or just cut a slit around the tunnel on the firewall, bend it up and weld it in place. I will probably just pull the engine out later today and work on the front again tomorrow. Everything back from the bell has more than enough space.

Ideally, I would have the engine about 0.5” higher than how it was hanging. But I could not because of the bellhousing contacting the chassis, which also made the output end of the tranny hang a little low. Based off the original crossemeber, about 1.375” too low on the mount. And this is all giving the front (aluminum) part of the sump about 0.125” clearance over the top of the subframe. TIGHT! And the subframe wasn’t even fully bolted. If it was, it aboud be about 0.5” higher. So I cannot just drop the engine. In other details because of my tranny/engine fit predicament, I have two options.

1: Space the front suspension down 0.5”. That would keep the engine where it is in the photo. That would allow me to beat or cut the tranny column to only have to raise the tail end of the tranny. Guess is I would have to expand the closest contact point by about 0.5” because it is a lot closer to the engine mount (pivot point).

2: Have the suspension fully bolted, which would need the engine another 0.5” higher. But would also have to raise the tail end of the tranny. So I would have to do the same as prior, enlarge the tranny column. But more to compensate for the engine. Probably would have to enlarge the column by about 1-1.25” to compensate for the adjustment of both ends.

I am leaning toward option 2. It is a better way. I believe. I have done this much work. Why pussy out now? Anyhow when I get my engine out and can look at it, I will see what I am getting into. Also need to check out the inside to see if there are any crucial mount points for shit on the potentially cut/bent regions.

On a positive, the MA60 shifter position is perfect!

[tacoma_kyle]

So the clearancing of the column proved to be very successful.

I dropped the engine in place and solved both of my problems. The two of which were too high of a engine and too low of a transmission output shaft. The limitations were the suspension subframe and the transmission column.

So clearancing ti allowed the engine to be lifted a little and the tranny angled up. Which also fixed the problem of engine angle (happends when the tranny is low and engine high... .

So I was pretty content with that. I do think I am going to cut the engine mounts off the Supra subframe and build complete new ones. Maybe the bolt through bushing style. The 1UZ is a smooth engine under factory management so the vibes may not be that bad.

Anyhow Yeah.

[Sagluren]

very nice.. the pics not working anymore tho..


cheers sam

[tacoma_kyle]

Yeah, accidentally deleted them all.

Here are some cliffnotes expressed via photo's. Kinda reverse chrono order. I dunno.

[Sagluren]

looking awesome dude..


cheers sam.

[tacoma_kyle]

SOMETHING HAPPENED

Yeah I finally got it on 4 wheels. Doesn't drive, lol. But I can haul it now. I dropped it hard too when I let the jack down, no problems. Didn't expect any. THe rear isn't 100% done in terms of the fab, but it exceeds the structural security needed. Now, pretty much on hold for 3 months til I get myself situated at my new place.

So, the engine lines up very well. I trimmed the engine mount locations on the subframe so it is easier to lift it up when mounting the engine. The tunnel clearancing worked wonders, got the engine about as flat as I could possibly get it without cutting a new tranny tunnel. Made the tranny crossmember, which was just a modified old one. Down the road I will probably make a new one, out of 0.120" steel. This one is fine, just kinda quickly thrown together. Engine mounting is not done, but I got a small stroke of luck. THe engine mounts when made for the Celica crossmember work fine on the MA70 when swapped. Or at least the mounting surfaces line up and at a close angle, about 8° difference I guesstimate. So I will hack the celica crossmember for the bolt surface and weld it on the MA70 crossmember. Then I got engine mounts. The engine is actually sitting on them (for 20R), with a 0.5" piece of plywood between to give the height necessary to clear the steering rack.

Also found out I need to replace all balljoints and tie rod ends. lol Two have BAD play.

All bolted together and on the ground, the car sits rather nice. A little high, no gas tank, seats, human, etc.... But it is also made for a big-ass car. In comparison. There will probably be another 300lb of body panels, sears, gauges, blabla to be added. Bumpers........

The suspension bounces really nice too.

Not impressive photo, looks like most cars. Oh and these wheels have a lot less (well couple cm's) offset than the stock A70 wheels. Oh +1cm or so on the front because I didn't have the rotors on.

[SLO-030]

Looking great mate!

Is the change in wheel base going to adversely change the handling characteristics?. Not that the V8 won;t anyway

[twentyEight]

Is the change in wheel base going to adversely change the handling characteristics?.

Of course it will, but combined with the wider foot, and IRS, it will handle much better than the original Celica design.

Not that the V8 won;t anyway

The 1UZ will be better on the handling characteristics than the original motor. It's alloy, has a lower centre of gravity, and is better balanced.

[SLO-030]

I stand corrected. Thanks twentyEight

[tacoma_kyle]

Yeah the wheelbase is about 4" longer than original. Extended on the front, the rear center is about exactly where is was prior. And I think I did a pretty good job getting ht engine where it is. I just towed it 150 miles on a car-dolly (rear wheels on the ground). No problems what-so-ever.

A longer wheelbase will generally make a car more stable at higher speeds, but I believe it will also lose the back end easier. Break traction... I would think the longer wheelbase would increase the centripetal forces; which translates to a larger force straight out from the turn arc that the rear wheels are making when cornering. If I am thinking correctly.

Basically there is a cost and gain. But adversely, the length would not be big. But it would be kinda like another 8hp when you already have 220 or so. I am guessing. But...then there is the IRS with the torsen diff. That will be amazingly better than the linked live axle without a sway bar! Or so I am hoping!

But it is on hold for several months til I get situated. But.... good news... the hood will go on! I had a spare to trim for the road, so I just cut out the center section of the reinforcement. It fit great. So no hole in the hood for me! Made my day! That and nothing going wrong on the towing trip. haha