1JZ watercooling oil, where filter bolts onto.

[Admiral coFF33]

Has anyone considered removing the watercooling for the oil system block that the filter bolts onto.?

im considering it, then using 20W instead of 15W oil ..

smart or full retard ?

any opinions ?

(im mainly doing it to install a sandwich plate for oil sensors for gauges for the soarer.)

[Pimpin_1JZ]

I would've thought that the 20 wieght oil would have been worse than using the 15 weight oil when uncooled?

[whatthe?]

It's not just cooling, it helps get the oil up to temp qucker. For oil cooling I'm sure it does not much.

[Pimpin_1JZ]

Ah true, never thought of the adverse affect it can also have.

[Admiral coFF33]

so removing it wouldnt be a BAD idea, and would also in turn drop water temps further ?

[whatthe?]

I dont think it will make a huge difference. Youre running ~80 degree water through ~80 degree oil unless it's on the track where both will be hotter

[Admiral coFF33]

track, yes

But if i have a big fat rad, which i do, and im no longer cooling 100+ degrees oil at the filter.
then essentially. ....

But in regards to the water ever actually cooling the oil, are u sure the only intention for it is to "help the oil get up to temp" quicker?

[whatthe?]

I'm sure it has some very minimal oil cooling effect, but look at the size of the lines running to it. A full flow oil cooler is going to work 11ty billion times better than that.

We were going to take that thing off my IS200 when we fitted the oil cooler, the onlt reason we didnt was because Linden said it helps heat the oil quicker. Looking at my oil/water temp guages in that car it was easy to see that the oil took much longer to heat up than the water

[wilbo666]

I think it is Fully Retarded.


As has been said it has benefits.

1) It help get the oil up to operating temp quicker (A good thing) as oil temp lags water temp

2) It helps to cool the oil as oil temp if the oil temp goes above water temp.



I don't see any disadvantages.



Cheers
Wilbo

[Ben12a]

Mate,

I fitted a sandwich plate without removing it no dramas.

I then later fitted a relocation kit on top of that to run a side mount oil cooler and remote oil filter under the car down near the gearbox. I could have tapped the relocation kit and fitted my temp and pressure sender units but by that stage it was all wired in and runnig fine so laziness got the better of me.

Once you have an oil temp gauge you will quickly want an oil cooler. The oil sees some insane temps at Oran Park in december/january
Oil pressure gauge- Need one that reads in vicinity of 150PSI. I have one that goes to 100PSI and it is fine for hot idle, but blip the throttle and it is off the scale.

[Admiral coFF33]

Ok , im going to remove this shit again and try again fitting a cooler kit .

Has anyone seen a thread/guide/ has anyone actually REMOVED THE ARM completely and know what kind of fitting is needed to replace into the block so you can simply have

Block -> fitting -> sandwichplate (for oil cooler/gauges)

Coz once the arm is out, the long (150mm fitting for the arm/ 100mm fitting for the filter) fittings are way to huge to put into the block.

Suggestions ?

[forey]

also interested

[Toy77]

mate,

i did this.... it is in my members rides thread - closer to the end than the start of the thread. i looked for an adapter to screw staight into the block to attach the plate to, but was unsucessful.... so used a 7m arm instead.

edit - here it is - http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...=13784&page=12

has some pics - i used a slightly modified 7m oil output from the block as well as it gave me an angle i was happier with for my set up. this is a remote filter with cooler. I did have to stuff around with the mounting bolt - the big fat one the oil goes through and holds the mount on.

Cheers
Stew

[Looonie]

I've done this, removed the whole setup and put in a spin on adapter to run to the remote oil filter mount (which will then run to the oil cooler setup).

Also had the hard pipe that runs right around the block cut and welded up. One less headache to deal with.

Catch me on MSN if you wanna know more about it.

[Guyana00]

You could make it thermostatically controlled and it would allow for better warm up, less engine wear.
Just remove the entire system and put on a sandwich plate with cooler and remote filter or twin filter setup. Thermostatic control isn't such a big deal where you are though.

There is a great write-up on using 0w30 synthetic too. I'll find it for you.