GUIDE - 85amp EA Falcon Alternator onto 18R or T series engines

[ra_28]

I had the similar issue with my gauges dropping out, fuel and water temp going off the scale. I found two issue. Earth in the boot was poor that fixed the fuel and temp issue. Round plug on back of gauges had poor connection, cleaned all the terminals and retensioned the terminals in the plug that fixed my gauge power issue but I still had a charge light on. The actual charging side of things was fine just the light on.

[solja]

. Alright lol it's been a while and we are only just now doing this mod. Alternator off and we thought we would swap pulleys over first. Problem is they don't fit easily. Our original pully rubs on the back of the new alternator. Anyone else run into this issue and what was the fix? Not going to grind away at our mount until we are sure what we have will work.
Original ta22 pully is on huge right and note the ford pully on the left. Or main issue is not having a collar at the base but if there was a collar on ours we would run out of thread to fit the nut anyway. Our motor is a 2t

[GT1978]

My curse continues. Solved my charge light issue. Testing the wire from the light to the alternator indicated a short somewhere so ran a new cable and charge light works as it should. Drove the car to work last week and friday morning got a charge light when rpm dropped below 1500. Started to have battery issues on the way home. Indicator stays on (doesnt flash). Pulled in to a servo and bumped the idle above 1500 gave the relay box and cables a jiggle and got back good charge. Thing is still getting charge light under 1500rpm. Is it likely I have I killed the alternator with high rpm or maybe the regulator with the previous short?

[stidnam]

one of the diodes in the alternator may be faulty? Vague recollection that this may be a symptom of blown diode. Google it and see if that is your issue?

[JadeEstevez]

Just adding a better way of doing the bracket I came up with.

Use the original EA falcon bracket, Just remove the extra arm that comes off the back of it.



Cut the water pump pipe off and grind it down carefully to a nice finish to slide the hose down all the way.
Don't use the spacer behind the original RG bracket.



Put a T piece further up the hose.



Done. Fits better and has more adjustment

[The Witzl]

just an FYI.....for those with a bit more coin, another upgrade option is the one from a 3F-E landcruiser motor (FJ6x/FJ7x/FJ80).
They are a direct fit without any modifications required, other than wiring.

Aftermarket alternators for 3F-E is usually 80A, internally regulated.


EDIT - note below that there are some clearance issues highlighted on an 18R.
ON a 2T/3T, there is no issue however.
Some more check work to be done here.

[GT1978]

just an FYI.....for those with a bit more coin, another upgrade option is the one from a 3F-E landcruiser motor (FJ6x/FJ7x/FJ80).
They are a direct fit without any modifications required, other than wiring.

Aftermarket alternators for 3F-E is usually 80A, internally regulated.

So just want to confirm. Pivot point is direct fit with pulley lining up and right belt size and all that is needed is to adapt the wiring? I think I need this! My current setup I think is slightly miss aligned and eats the belt edges regularly. Would much prefer a direct bolt on that only requires an initial wiring adaptation.

[The Witzl]

Yep it all looks to line up perfectly.

[o_man_ra23]

Now this is good news mr Witzy... is the 3F wiring the same as the fail can wiring?

[stidnam]

I'm in the process of making a adjusting strap to suit the Falcon alternator. A few measurements and some drawing and you get the following. This is where CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) comes into play. Designed to mount off the back bolt hole of one of the water pump bolts on a 2TG/3TG front cover. Tensioning will be the bolt and block tightening setup so you don't have to use a lever to get the right belt tension.

Happy to provide the dwg file once happy with it. Hope to get the first one laser cut in the next week



Full travel towards block


Location with belt on pulley in normal spot




General type of tensioning system

[bmxer54]

Ok, So on the 3f alternator there are 3 wires in the plug.
The red wire with the horizontal pin is meant to be connected to B+ (positive terminal of battery)
The white wire with the vertical pin on the left is meant to be connected to IG (switched ignition power)
The black wire with the vertical pin on the right is meant to be connected to L (the warning light)
and then there is the stud for the power cable connected to the battery which on most wiring diagrams is seen as S

As my rt104 only has the battery stud (S) and the warning light (L) wires i needed to run twin core cable from near the battery/coil to the alternator plug, connecting one core to the positive terminal of the battery and the other to the switched ign+ at the coil, then the other ends to their respective pin on the plug

I hope this helps someone,
Cheers, Peter

[Invid]

So have been running my Falcon Alt for a few years now and I've noticed and interesting gremlin that I don't have the skills to explain.

It's dark when I leave work and hop into my car. Start up the 22 and the headlights are dim, the heater fan runs slowly and the wipers run slowly (if they are on). When the engine hits 3200rpm for the first time everything starts working at full power (like the alt has just switched on). Then everything is peachy until I sit at idle for more that 6 minutes (aprox) and then all of a suddenly everything goes dim again like the alt has switched off and I'm running on battery power. The moment the engine hits 3200rpm everything lights up again.

My thoughts are the regulator?

Any ideas?

[Javal]

So have been running my Falcon Alt for a few years now and I've noticed and interesting gremlin that I don't have the skills to explain.

It's dark when I leave work and hop into my car. Start up the 22 and the headlights are dim, the heater fan runs slowly and the wipers run slowly (if they are on). When the engine hits 3200rpm for the first time everything starts working at full power (like the alt has just switched on). Then everything is peachy until I sit at idle for more that 6 minutes (aprox) and then all of a suddenly everything goes dim again like the alt has switched off and I'm running on battery power. The moment the engine hits 3200rpm everything lights up again.

My thoughts are the regulator?

Any ideas?

That does sounds a lot like the voltage reg is on its way out.

[ra_28]

Could be voltage reg, where are you getting your voltage sense from?

[GT1978]

Finally got around to trying the 3f alternator. Has been sitting in the back seat for probably 6+ months. Have hit a few issues though.
Front bracket looks like it is the right offset to line up the pulleys however the space between the alternator brackets is larger than the spacer can accommodate so some washers may be required to tighten the pivot point. EDIT: Spacing issue was using bracket modified for falcon alternator. Unmodified mount would be fine.

Second issue I found is that I have an engine mount on that side. The alternator is almost pressed against the front face of the mount and it's tensioning will be reduced to less than half travel before the B+ terminal hits the mount.
Final issue found is that the socket for the wires will also be obstructed by the mount.
Will take some pics on my phone and post them when I get home.

Here is the alternator bolted loosely at the pivot point.




Here is the pivot point spacer with the bolt up tight


This is how much adjustment I can get before the B+ terminal hits the engine mount



And here is where the socket for the wiring plug is in the tensioned position.