Setting up 2NZFE coils on 20V with Razorback ECU?

[sillycar chick]

Guys, I need help! All the reading ive been doing is way over my head and im finding myself more and more confused!

I have a 20V silvertop with a Razorback (modified stock ECU with handcontroller) ECU. I want to run these coil on plugs:
(sorry Sam for stealing your pic!)

Problem is I dont know enough about it to work out how to set this up with the ECU. Obviously I need a reference, like CAS by modifying the dizzy or the like. But I cant figure out what sort of signal the ECU needs, so I dont know how to modify the dizzy

Here is the information I have from the razorback manual:

*******


Is anyone able to figure it out and dumb it down a bit so I can understand what I need to do to get it running?
Thanks!

[JP]

reading those instructions, you shouldn't have to butcher the teeth in the 20V distributor. You will need to run the coils in waste spark mode though, ie, fire coil 1&4 together and 2&3 together.

eg:

[sillycar chick]

Thats a good explanation of the 4 wires off the coils thats a big help!

So with my ecu below, does that mean that I hook up coils 1&4 to Spark Ignitor 1 (IGT), coils 2&3 to Spark Ignitor 2 (IGT2 Multicoil)?
And the tacho, on the ecu 37 is Tacho output (L2), is that tacho feed from coils, or sending the info to the tacho gauge?
And can I use the 12V switched ign from any of those connectors on the ecu? (20,21,42)

Oh and what happens with the dizzy then? Do i just disconnect the wires and blank it off?

[JP]

Yep, I'd connect 1&4 to IGT1 and 2&3 to IGT2, I'd wire ECU pin 37 to the tacho in the cluster. You can leave the IGf connections from the coilpacks disconnected (Tach wire in the Miata diagram)

You can wire the coils to the switched ignition relay output, I'm not sure if you'd need to add a supressor to the coilpack power feed though. Probably best to check with Sam about how well his ECU copes with electrical noise.

[skiddz]

beaten to it, wasted spark is the way to go

the tacho output is to the tacho guage its a low level output so you may need to make a tacho booster. alternatively you could rig it up so you could pull the signal straight from the coils, its not that hard i saw somthing in the megamanual about it has somthing like 3 diodes in various configurations, ill see if i can dig it up

with the dizzy, remove the cap and rotor button replace with a cover of some description LEAVE THE WIRES CONNECTED this tells your engine when to fire injectors, when to fire coil etc. so it is required

edit: you will need to remove some teeth on the wheel inside the dizzy, do it with a dremel or somesuch tool, make it look like the picture, when you power up the ecu change a few of the settings, you will have to connect IG2 (obviously) and change the coil settings from 1 toyota to 2 toyota, and with the 4 coils it should run wasted spark.

[sillycar chick]

I still dont get how I need to modify the dizzy yet.... im assuming it needs to be done so the ECU has a reference for when to fire the coils, so what, leaving two teeth indicates teh two times that the coils fire? which too teeth? mind you I havent seen inside the 20V dizzy yet...

[JP]

reading the pages you posted above, it looks like only the bigport distributor requires modification. The smallport distributor runs the same trigger setup as a 20V distributor, so shouldn't require any modification to the teeth.

[twentyEight]

Silly, can I ask where you got the plugs for the coils?

What did they set you back?

[JP]

You can order the plug connectors from toyota for about $7ea from memory, it's the pins that are the expensive bit as you can only get the pins with 20cm of wire crimped to them from toyota for a stupidly expensive price.

[sillycar chick]

Ok this is what the inside of my 20V distributor looks like...

[skiddz]

weird i see no missing teeth nor raised teeth

i guess just leave it, see if it works, and if it doesnt then try and understand it

[JP]

That's the 24 tooth wheel, you'll find the other wheel below it. As the instructions state, you dont need to modify a 20V distributor for it to work with the multicoil setup.

[sillycar chick]

Yeah i was having a look for interests sake so if i pull off the cover that says "do not remove" i'll see it there?
I've put the cover back on the dizzy and left it there anyway. I was going to fit up my coils today but realised that I have to modify them to fit them in the hole. Hopefully i dont have to take too much off them.

[JP]

yeah, you've only got to take off 0.5-1mm to get them to fit nicely. I turn them down in my lathe but I know of others who use a linisher or similar to reduce the diameter.

[sillycar chick]

Yep, I'd connect 1&4 to IGT1 and 2&3 to IGT2, I'd wire ECU pin 37 to the tacho in the cluster. You can leave the IGf connections from the coilpacks disconnected (Tach wire in the Miata diagram)

Just in regards to this, im assuming I dont need to connect the "Tach" wires on the coils as the dizzy sends the ECU the signal for the rpm, and I can then connect pin 37 to the gauge (with a booster thingy) and I'll get the tacho signal?