St141 modification thread

[Shifty]

They are difficult to convert to RWD due to manifolding issues and I think also you run into dramas with flywheel, starter, etc. Big headache.

Either needs to spend money, or not spend money.

[4DaDrift]

Edited post.

[ecko]

okay so im severely sick of my 2sc and come tax time thinking ill chuck a new motor in
i need help picking tho so any ideas..
the easier the better and id like it to be a proven transplant.. im thinking of sr20de?
any other ideas?

[Pimpin_1JZ]

Honestly your best bet for a simplish conversion would be to use a 22RC with RT142 crosmember etc etc, then you won't have to worry about ecu, efi lines, fuel tank...,

[essaysixtythree]

I flung a 3s in my old 2sc's spot, but the conversion isn't easy and I still havent finished. So probably not recommended.

[ecko]

Honestly your best bet for a simplish conversion would be to use a 22RC with RT142 crosmember etc etc, then you won't have to worry about ecu, efi lines, fuel tank...,

thats the plan

[ecko]

can anyone confirm that you need a rt142 xmember to fit 22r into st141?
or can i just use the st141 xmember

[ecko]

anyone?
can i use a ra60 xmember to do it?

[Javal]

can anyone confirm that you need a rt142 xmember to fit 22r into st141?
or can i just use the st141 xmember

Yes you will need an RT142 crossmember unless you want to fabricate your own mounts.

Unsure about the RA60 crossmember.

[GTtwin]

For a cheap/basic upgrade RA60/SA63/RA65 Celica discs & calipers bolt straight on. I did this upgrade for $30 on my 1GGTE ST141 and you don't need to do anything custom - even the factory ST141 brake lines fit right up.

Sorry to be critical but the S14 conversion has been described as "bolt on" but given that the disc has to be redrilled, you need a spacer to correct the offset, and you need a spacer ring to make the disc fit the hub correctly it's about as hard as a brake conversion gets, save for the fact that the caliper bolts on without needing an adapter.

A lot of people get in trouble starting things and not knowing the full details, this is the perfect example of something that looks simple but can actually be quite expensive/difficult for those without the tools/know-how/access to a machine shop or someone to do it at cheap rates.

How true!

The RA-65 disc conversion is the way to go. I also found that the slightly beefier MX-83 calipers bolt straight on to the 141 strut with these discs. The MX-83 booster and master cylinder goes in with re-drilled holes in the firewall and the linkage fits the Corona brake pedal.

My RT-142 stops fantastic now at the cost of pocket change.

[Pimpin_1JZ]

Hmm, interesting to know. We run a RT142 rally car and have just gone to a hilux rear end with R31 disc setup. Will have to look into the fronts...

[CoronaC]

These are my plans for my ST141 build up...
S13 front coilover conversion with R32/33 rotors and calipers (5 stud conversion)
RN41 (think that was the right one) Hilux diff with G series LSD and MA70 rear rotors and calipers (also 5 Stud conversion)
Unsure of what brake master i should be looking at using yet.

Beams Blacktop 3SGE
Convert to manual, unsure of which box I'm going to be using, guess it depends on what box i can get with the Beams 1/2 cut, a W57 would be a good choice if i can only get a 1/2 cut with an auto box.
Convert the fuel system from carbie setup to EFI setup.
New radiator
Find a better steering box.
I'm sure ill find more things that will need replacing/upgrading while im at it.

Fresh paint job, something similar to the original yellow paint, slightly darker metallic yellow, gota keep it looking a little bit different and unique, dont see many yellow coronas puttering around anymore.

Then to top it off, spend a shitload on getting it engineered and hoping it will pass.

Its been a while since i had a look around at these upgrades so I'm not 100% sure that all the details that Ive put down are correct.
Not a cheap conversion at all, did a quick estimate of costs a while ago when i first started to research what i wanted to do to the car and its run up to about 20-25k with the things listed above plus a few more little things (wiring, wheels, tires etc)
But the car has sentimental value to me so its worth it in the end for me.

I dont have a time frame for when this will be started/finished cause i still have to get the funds for it first. Either way it should be a pretty decent sleeper when it is finally done.

Cheers
Chris

[Braden]

hay guys i have 2 ronas an st142 that i use for sliding and a st141that i am alos settin up for sliding i was woundering wat parts i need off the s13 to do the s13 front end coilovers in
and would the adavnti power streeing work on it

[Shifty]

Out of interest, I found a pic of my old 1ggte st141.

As you can see it is a very tight fit from prettymuch any angle.

[JKLMATE]

Hey guys, thought I would try get this thread rolling again...

I'm starting to plan putting a W55/57/58 in my auto ST141 sedan. The reason I won't just buy RT142 is because I love my car and I'd like to put a 1jz or 2jz in it one day, plus there is a bellhousing adapter for jz to w so I can still use it later..

I've got an RT142 transmission crossmember, clutch pedal and SA63 bellhousing (s to w). I also have ST141 clutch master cylinder and the bearing carrier, fork and slave also from SA63.. but I've recently been looking at a using hydraulic clutch bearing: http://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/284/...-r154-tob.html

My questions are, what model W5x came in the RT142? Because I've seen several different answers now, but I think its probably a W55?
I figure this is important because they all seem to have different shifter positions, I'm thinking some may not fit in the stock position? Thoughts?

Do all the W5x models use the same tailshaft connection?

What might I do for the clutch to fit an old 2SC engine? A manual SA63 clutch/pressure plate/fly wheel is my only option??

Have I missed anything?

Any help is awesome, sorry if I'm hard to understand because I have no mechanical background!