motor swap...need all the techheads this way HELP ME OUT

[imajin]

heres my story

i have 2 ae82's one is a twincam model and one is a carby model

dont ask why im wasting my time because i love the car mayne =D

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/...ntry1284029378 thats my twincam model which isnt for sale now....amazingly kept up with my frends civic type r ek9 b16b a lot of the times

=[ unfortunately some awesome dude hit me in the back of the car...anyways thats life sh*t happens

i am doing a motor swap at work( not yet though maybe in the next couple of weeks)...i work at Toyota dealership place, im an apprentice and i need all of the info i can get my hands on that could help me out....people tell me that "everything" bolts straight up hopefully it does..

boss is letting me have one mechanic for the week which i have to take 1 week of my leave which is fair...i have to pay his hourly wage for how many hours he works on my car and how long it takes..hopefully wont cost that much lets say roughly 23 bucks an hour but i need an estimate on how long u guys rekon it would take...i notified the mechanic which he said the job is a piece of piss hes a mad fella though hes around 25 years old...but anyways boss reckons its alot of work because of wiring and things like that just need heads up, help and motivation from you guys...and fluids i use are basically for free like brake fluid coolant and engine oil which is 10-40 mineral base which doesnt bother me next oil change then ill go for something better and ive got ngk irridium sparkplugs

main things that ill be changing over is the dash, fuel tank, motor, gearbox, rear brakes (drum to disc), suspension, and lines obviously oh and wiring harness and the things ill be needing to swap over...but just wondering would everything bolt straight up? like would the bigport dive shafts fit in the carby hub? just need all the info i can get id rather post here then twincam.org dont know why.....one more thing should i basically just replace everything that the twinky has to the carby model like controller arms and brake booster which would probably be identical? and is there small tweaks i could do that would make the thing go even quicker

cheers need help

[allencr]

roughly 23 bucks an hour

Charity? Anonymous benefactor?
How much more is it if you are helping or watching?

[celicapain]

"dash, fuel tank, motor, gearbox, rear brakes (drum to disc), suspension, and lines obviously oh and wiring harness and the things ill be needing to swap over"
you might be able to do it in a week working 8 hour days with two of you, but it would be pretty borderline(thats assuming everything bolts straight in and nothing needs to be repaired) so thats at least $1000 in labour costs plus your time.

imho you would be better of driving the standard carbied one around for a while, maybe swap over suspension, brakes etc on weekends, = no labour costs, so spend the $1000 on a 4agze and box, insert and you will at least have a quicker car after all that work.

[Moppitt]

I'd also be inclined to do what celicapain suggested as I'm going down the same path (for other reasons, long story)

Knowing how much you can get done in a short time on a hoist it would probably be do-able, hell, I'm pretty sure I could have the my 4ac out in less than 3 hours first time, probably half that second time doing it on a hoist.

For the brakes, doing it at home might make it take half a day, you swap the hubs, handbrake cables from the pivot halfway down underneath the car and flexible lines. I'm not sure if you need to do the proportioning valve, its probably worthwhile given you have one on the twinky and its right there. If your doing that then you'll need to bleed the system so you may as well do the front brakes (just calipers and rotors)

I'd probably do the rear struts at the same time since you already have the hubs off (they're the same on both cars, I'm running twinky kyb's all around)

So to break it down into manageable bits to do yourself while keeping the car on the road at the end of each day before getting into the big job of the engine... I'd go with brakes all around first which all bolts up iirc. If you're going ok with that then do the rear struts at the same time (its only 3 nuts on the top plate if the hub is off)

Front struts will swap over, you'll notice that the twinky had a 4 bolt top hat, the carbie model has a 3 bolt top, thats fine, just push out the plug in the unused hole and you're away. Same for the strut brace. There are 2 holes behind the silver "Super Responsive"[lol] sticker.

Suspension; I'm not sure if you'll need to swap the front lower control arms over for the sway bar, I'd suspect you dont but just have a look. FWIW I have a whiteline front sway bar and it fitted with the mounts they supplied.

Dash/Cluster: Cluster is a piece of piss to fit, its about 8 screws, you need to be careful with the speedo drive though. I'm not sure about wiring though. Looking at the plugs I wouldnt be suprised to find that most of what you need is already there ready to plug and play but dont take that with any weight. You'll need to find that out, things like check engine light, tacho etc may be unwired. If that becomes a problem you may end up swapping the loom from the twinky but as I said I havent looked at the wiring in any detail.

Fuel tank and lines: Not sure, havent done that yet but thinking about it logically it costs toyota more to put more holes for different fuel tanks in etc so they are likely to bolt up. Not sure about lines (have heard the same) or wiring (ditto) although have a look under your back seat, on my 4ac ae82 there is an unused wiring plug with 2 wires that i'm interested in as potential fuel pump wiring. Will check where that goes when the time comes though.

Drive shafts: Probably a direct fit, as above. Otherwise just slam in the hubs off the twinky.

Hope that helps.

[78Rolla]

I'd agree with Moppitt....change over the little things first - before taking it off the road.

One week isn't that long, especially if you run into trouble...and you WILL run into trouble when doing something like this! just depends on how much

[cooter]

having said all that you will still need to do the motor eventually. so why not do it while youve has a mechanic etc organised? time could be cut down by not doing the little things like brakes, susp etc that can be done as said later on down the track with half a saturday. yes it will still be a bigport 4a but at least it will be an injected setup taking a few small hassles out of the eventual gze (or better bt 20V) install. and having something pokier than the basic carb 82. im guessing your wanting something a lil more than the 82 youve got that can be driven.
just a thought

sorry i havent got anything technical to tell you but. lol
craig

[Hen]

I'd also suggest that you do as much as you can before taking it into work. You can change suspension and brakes and the dash at home or afterhours at work by yourself.

Then prepare the donor car to get the engine out, clean things up, make good friends with a wiring diagram so you know exactly what goes where, strip back the wrapping on all the wiring you'll be swapping, etc etc. And then when you have absolutely nothing more you can do at home, jump into the motor swap.

Things always go wrong (half the "fun" of working with cars), and a day soon disappears if you regularly have to run out for spare parts and fittings, or have to battle with a rounded off bolt in a bitch of a spot.

I hope this doesn't sound negative, it is doable, but to save you money and possibly time I'd attack it bit by bit.

Hen

[o_man_ra23]

Assuming nothing is broken and both cars are otherwise identical, with a hoist, professional workshop, all the proper tools and a good helper, it can be done in less than a week. I used to be able to pull an XF motor and box, including draining all fluids and undoing everything (nothing got cut) in under half an hour. Installing one took less than an afternoon. Add to that wiring (all looms being for the correct chassis, pull them out when the motor is out, and same with install, if it all fits right, you are in the clear for time) and swapping over the fuel system/dash, and you have most of a week's work.

Being that the setup is in a car of the same chassis currently, and runs currently, that should reduce your efforts greatly. Just don't break anything in the transfer, and you should piss it in. Mark all your wires before you pull them off though.