What could be causing this? T50 slave cylinder issue.

**takai** · 13-07-2009, 10:08 PM

Dead flat is perfectly fine, thats how most of them are made these days.

**petergoudie** · 13-07-2009, 10:20 PM

Takai, you might be right but is there enough clearance behind the fingers to the boss on the friction plate in the photo. Can that friction plate go on the wrong way around? The photo makes the fingers look at though they are sitting on the boss.

**takai** · 13-07-2009, 10:40 PM

If thats the case then it wouldnt disengage at all. Besides the boss fouls on the flywheel bolts if you install it backwards.

**71TA22** · 14-07-2009, 01:13 AM

Originally Posted by twentyEight

But, the part that's broken is what holds the fork to the pivot, this may be causing some issues.

I have had this happen in the past. Replaced the fork with one with a complete pivot bracket and all sorted. What I think happens with a broken bracket is that the fork can twist further vertically round the pivot to the point that the slave cylinder rod can escape over the top or underneath the fork.

Check the pivot too as it may also be damaged given the extra fork movement.

**joey** · 14-07-2009, 08:23 AM

Those pics are quite deceiving, the fingers are not resting on the friction plate, theres around maybe 20mm or so clearence. Yeah when i put the clutch on it would only go on one way.
Well i might go and buy a new fork and see how it goes

**allencr** · 14-07-2009, 10:22 PM

Originally Posted by joey

Well i might go and buy a new fork...

I wouldn't get another fork unless it was cracked & flexing, or if the little clip on the pivot actually did something for its operation and not just aid in assembly by holding the fork in place like the missing one would seem to. Is there any possibility at all that its socket has jumped off of the ball(adjustable?) that is fastened to the case???? Most don't have anywhere else to go even if the clip isn't on the pivot and/or the bearing. The look of the fork thru the bellhousing pic showed me that it was pretty well centered, but just that it was at the end of its travel. With a disk that thick you may have to adjust the height of the pivot. How do it feel?

The 'flat spring/fingers' are OK when you've got a throwout bearing that has a curved face in contact with the spring so its leverage will not change like a flat face would when moving between fingers in & flat & out.

Also, throw away the slave cyl. external spring, and an internal spring if its got one. It will self-adjust without them very well all by itself.

**joey** · 15-07-2009, 09:39 PM

Just went out and tested that the pivot ball was centralised with the indentation on the fork when slid forward and it is.
allen there isnt a socket as such on the pivot ball (which is in fine condition btw) which connects to the fork, this is what i thought the bracket which is snapped off may have aided in doing, hence having to buy a new fork with one of them on it. But can someone tell me for sure if that is what the little metal tab is for?

Cheers, Joe

**petergoudie** · 15-07-2009, 10:16 PM

When there is a full tab there, it slides behind the ball and holds the arm onto the loaded side of the ball. It also helps to hold everything together during assembly.

**NME308** · 16-07-2009, 11:53 PM

I created myself a similar problem last weekend on my project celica.

When I fixed the hugely elongated holes in the pedal-to-master rod I also adjusted the setup so I have basically no slack before clutch pedal is engaging master.
The car is on jackstands and I was running the car through the gears with engine on and after several gear changes the rear wheels had stopped turning...
A look underneath at the slave cylinder showed the fork pushed forward and I had to open the bleeder nipple to get the piston back to home position. Basically I have adjusted the pedal rod just too far and the fluid is not being allowed to return from the slave to the master once clutch pedal is released. I could easily have pushed the piston out just like yours has done if I had kept pushing the clutch!

Cheers,
Jason

**allencr** · 16-07-2009, 11:57 PM

[QUOTE=joey]indentation on the fork [QUOTE]
I don't think it needs 360 degrees of contact to be considered a socket,not an indent, and I don't think that it needs a little piece of shit clip to hold it in place for that fork to be able to do its job & function 100%, when it is clean & smooth & lubed. There are 100's of pounds of force on that fork from the leverage that it gets from the slave cyl., and a piece of spring steel isn't going to persuade it to operate any differently then it wants to right now. It mostly helps the old ladies on an assembly line to be able to put it together with out knowledge or thinking.

The thicker the clutch disk, the further the clutch fingers/levers move towards the flywheel, so that clutch4.jpg pic you posted of an uninstalled PP has something wrong with it IMO if it doesn't have something jammed into it that's removed when it is being installed. IIRC the coil spring pressure plates usually had cardboard or metal things for each lever, but those with diaphragm springs didn't.

**petergoudie** · 17-07-2009, 12:16 AM

Are the release bearings all the same meaning if you buy one is it the correct one. I was given a box of four bearings all supposedly to fit a peugeot I owned. Whilst they all fitted, their rubbing face distance from the pivot point were all different. This means the arm angle would have been different depending on which one I used. Have you got a bearing that fits but its rubbing face height is lower which means the arm has to pivot more to the point the cylinder pops?

**twentyEight** · 17-07-2009, 06:36 AM

Originally Posted by allencr

http://blog.hemmings.com/wp-content/...04/clutch4.jpg.
so that pic you posted of an uninstalled PP has something wrong with it IMO if it doesn't have something jammed into it that's removed when it is being installed.

The pressure plate in the pics is not uninstalled. The fingers are pointing the correct way (outwards) on the pressure plate.

Also, your link doesn't work.

**NME308** · 20-07-2009, 08:15 AM

Did you get this one sorted mate?

Interested to know what it ended up being cos there's obviously more than one way to skin this cat!

Cheers,
Jason

**joey** · 20-07-2009, 08:22 AM

I think i have, will finish putting everything back together tonight. I got a fork with the metal tab on it, feels alot better now when pushing the fork with the thrust bearing on the input shaft by hand. Doesn;t feel anywhere near as sloppy as before.
Will let you guys know how it goes.

Cheers, Joe

**w810sc** · 20-07-2009, 09:00 AM

the clutch fork should have around 1mm of play, the height of the clutch pedal should be 6 cm from the floor. you can adjust this to suit your driving style by the nut on end of the clutch master cylinder.